Just popped out for a short road ride and, when I got back and went to lock up the bike, I saw this on my Stumpy:

The bead is holding on the tyre (amazingly) and it is still holding pressure (even more amazingly considering the age and the leaking sealent), but I’m going to need a new wheel.

What’s good in a 9 speed, 26″ bolt through wheel these days? Bike is a 2012 XL Stumpy FSR and it gets used for general trail bashing. I think some rocks did that.

Just needs a new rim. Find one with same ERD and it’s a very easy job to swap it.

Quite a rocky road ride then?

If the hub is decent just re-rim it – but if the spokes / nipples are old I’d put in new ones for the sake of £15-£20 to save future dramas.

Nice try! Road bike is in good shape and safely tucked away. I think the last time I took the Stumpy to Bosön, the short ride nearly ruined me. Stumpy is off-road only now.

Will get to looking for new rims.

Can’t quite tell from the picture how bent it is, but if you’re thinking about a new wheel already then there’s nothing to lose in trying to bend it back into shape first. Molgrips should do it.

It wasn’t @molgrips who bent the wheel, why should he do it? He might be able to lend you some Mole grips.

As above you have nothing to loose by trying to gently ease it back.

At the Les Orres EWS last year the Mavic mechanics were hammering wheels rims back that were in a lot worse state than that and the riders were going back out on them. It was a pleasure to watch what they were capable of rescuing

I can already hear the noises that’s going to make as it straightens.

Adjustable spanner is better than molegrips btw, though some modern rims can be too shallow for it to work.

A brief update on this thread…

I finally got my ass in gear to fix both the wheel and the leaky, messy, worn out tyre that was hanging on to it. Taking the tyre off showed me that the ding was purely in one side of the rim and that it had bulged out the outside slightly at the same time as bringing the lip in.

After taping up the jaws of some molegrips (sorry, all I had) I managed to get it mostly straight, but there is still a bit of that outward bulge to be seen. I then cleaned out the bead locks and the tape and set about fitting the new Spec Purgatory Grid.

In contrast to last time’s hilarity with the Hans Dampf, I manged to avoid spraying sealant all over the place and it sealed onto the rim relatively easily, i.e. with only a moderate amount of pumping like crazy on the Joe Blow. The only leaks I saw were minor and soon went after a bit of bouncing and rotating and it looks* like the bead lock is good enough on the damaged section. I’m currently leaving it alone in the bathroom for a few hours to see if it holds a pressure.

I also need to take it out for a trial at some point in the next few days, but I’m going to put a new rim onto my shopping list so that I can do something with it over winter.

I know that the 2Bliss tyres Spec makes are not 100% true tubeless and will admit that the setup I have is bodgetastic, but it really is an easy job to fit Spec tyres.

Sooooooo…. Looking at what is available, I can get a new rim (DT Swiss) for about 25Euro shipped. But I have no idea whether I need new spokes and nipples.

Is it possible that I can just lace the new rim onto the existing spokes and nipples, or do I need to go and get a load more stuff at the same time?

If your fix has done the job, I’d just keep riding it.

Got away with two or three such interventions before having to re-rim one of my wheels recently.

If it works just ride it.

If a re-rim where you want to re-use spokes you need to find the ERD of your current rim and find one almost the same.

You can run your hub specs / erd through the DT Swiss spoke calculator to check what spokes lengths should be if you can’t find a rim with similar enough erd.

If you need new spokes and want double butted then Cyclebasket sell ACI spokes that come with nipples. If you don’t care in spokes then Halo straight gauge are one of the cheapest options.

If a re-rim where you want to re-use spokes you need to find the ERD of your current rim and find one almost the same.

Or even just change nipples for a different size depending what length is on and new vs old ERD.

Or even just change nipples for a different size depending what length is on and new vs old ERD.

Why ? Thread depth is the same one 12/14/16mm nipples.

Good bodge but:

I know that the 2Bliss tyres Spec makes are not 100% true tubeless and will admit that the setup I have is bodgetastic, but it really is an easy job to fit Spec tyres.

😑 2bliss is just a play on ‘tubeless, they’re literally the Specialized tubeless range. Never not had a Specialized tyre go up first time and stay up.