I guess winding it is a bit fiddly if you have sausage fingers like me – but really not that much of an issue.

Ok I think kato, Thanks. I won’t find out for a while as they are interviewing all week. Annoying as I have another interview for an almost identical job, same organisation, tomorrow too. It will be promotion and a decent pay rise if successful…. Or it will be a day with a long face and more applications if I’m not! I’m sure the suit, shoes and watch helped with making me feel good though.

Hesalite Speedy Kryton! That’s my 50th birthday watch! That or an Explorer 1.

If you’re serious about a Speedy. Hackett Watches in London will do you a brand new Hesalite Moonwatch for 3299 which is 700 off list Similar discount on the Sapphire too

Wow thanks Kato I wasn’t intending to buy for 18 months but I’ll write that down keep them in mind.  I too will have to flip a couple of the over ambitious watches I bought 😀

Hackett Watches

He doesn’t have any Speedy’s at the mo though. He does an equally good deal on new Seamaster’s too

I’m leaning toward a fiddy for my fiddy-eth. I need to go too the boutique when it reopens, and take it a look.

@Kato
Ta, got the Alkin today.

@Blazin-saddles
Apols for the gazump

Memo to self: check here b4 ebay…

Ah no way! Well I’m glad it’s gone to a good home and you have directly bought me something interesting

click

I will report when it arrives. Always fancied one of these

An excellent article on military watches by an ex Royal Marine

@Kryton57 While I particularly like divers, just because they’re tough tool watches, a Speedy is just a lovely watch, with real history behind it, and a worthwhile investment to add your own personal history to.
While on the subject of chronographs, having now had my Yema on my wrist for an extended period, a bit over a fortnight, since I put the new strap on it and wound and reset it, I checked it’s accuracy. As it’s not hackable, it’s about as close to the second as I could get but it’s about 55 seconds slow after 17 days, so roughly 3 seconds a day! That’s within COSC standards for a fifty year old watch! I’m very pleased with that, and it’s not what I expected, although I know the Valjoux movement is a good one, as Breitling used it for a while. 😁

bought me something interesting

That of course is the “other seagull” thats often mentioned if you look into the Alpha watches.   When I was googling my then soon to be Newman Daytona homage it was always linked in any mention of an Alpha watch.

While on the subject of chronographs.

Thanks CountZero.  I suspect a Hesaltite Speedy is next on the list for the future.   I too like chrono’s.   Whilst trying to decide on Kato’s SKX I wore some of my watches and found I had a massive issue with this:

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2j5YfxA]20200526_193721[/url]

This is a 2006 CAF2111.  It has appreciated by about 10%.  However thats not the point – this was part of a pair of HIs & Hers as wedding presents bought from Barbados in 2006.   At the time, I could decide whether I like the Silver face as being a bit more original, or the more common black face.  I’ve often thought I should have gone for black.

Although I’ll never sell it, its large, the Calibre 6/ETA2895 makes it a heavy movement and currently the Silver is really putting me off wearing it.   I’ve a strong feeling that in 18 months the Speedy will consign it to a sentimental corner of the Watch box.

having now had my Yema on my wrist for an extended period, a bit over a fortnight, since I put the new strap on it and wound and reset it, I checked it’s accuracy.

WatchCheck app is good for this, and if you want to regulate anything Clock Tuner works well in conjunction with it. WatchCheck is free and Clock Tuner costs a few quid, but I’ve found it quite handy. Currently using them to try and regulate my wall clock.

I have both a Speedmaster and Explorer 1 in my collection.

Both are incredible watches and you can’t go wrong. I picked the Hesalite version as its the moonwatch with the hesalite.

I’d always advocate for 1 premium watch over a large collection of mid and low tier watches. The craftsmanship alone is worth it, and the heritage is an added bonus.

Tend to agree that a smaller collection of higher quality is my preference. I’ve got to 4 watches now and think no more, maybe even less.

I’d always advocate for 1 premium watch over a large collection of mid and low tier watches. The craftsmanship alone is worth it, and the heritage is an added bonus.

I know what you mean, but affordability comes into it, plus you never know when a mid or low-price watch might become a high-value watch for whatever reason – even Rolex and Omega watches were relatively affordable at one time. Look at my Yema, £50 when I bought it, but fetching close on £4000 now, but it’s a fifty year old watch. Even Seiko have very high end watches like the GS range and the Emperor Tuna at around £5-6k, and their mid-price watches become collectors items and the price suddenly shoots up.
My Seiko SRP043K1, which I paid £350 for, is now becoming collectible, I’ve seen examples going for £800-1100.
Those two examples are watches with mechanical movements, rather than quartz, though, and I think that does make a difference, people look for that extra bit of craftsmanship, even if the movement is largely mass-produced, it’s still a load of individual moving parts powered by a spring, rather than a battery.

I’m a believer in just buy what you like. My expensive watches never get used. Currently in a safe and no idea when I’ll see them again. But even when I had access I would still wear the cheaper watches, especially my Seiko divers and a fairly cheap Oris. I don’t understand comments about a watches heritage. I don’t know if it’s just me, but it’s just a watch. I’ve got Rolex, Breitling, Oris, Panerai and Omega watches, never once do I think about the heritage when wearing them. I’ve got about 12 watches, always looking to add more, I’m equally happy getting a £400 diver as I am getting a £6k Omega.
If you can afford it and you like the high end watches, great. If not collecting watches you like at any price point is just as good.
I get that some people are fortunate enough to make money on their watches. But that’s just not for me. Each to their own. I’ve made money on mine, but that’s never my objective. In fact it’s possibly why I don’t like my Rolex. A friend recently purchased a new Sky Dweller, cheaper new than the second hand prices. That’s just wrong. In fact he paid just over £11k new and second hand is £15k to £19k for the same model. Yes I understand economics but I don’t like the inflated prices. He didn’t buy his to wear, it’s an investment medium term. I get why, but it really doesn’t sit right with me.
I actually think £11k is a fair price for the Sky Dweller, but it’s the second hand value that is all wrong. This isn’t a result of the workmanship, it’s the restricted demand and the way that ADs sell watches to regular buyers (collectors) first. Either go on a 2 year waiting list to pay £11k or go second hand for £15k and get it now….

For me I’ve taken great pleasure in learning about watches from this thread and from my aforementioned and previous unknown as a horologist friend.

On the one hand I take great please from the explanation that goes into an casual observation “Oh look a Newman Daytona” goes then to an explanation of hand wind and the history of the Seagull movement which I enjoy, yet you can see people’s eyes glaze over as they quickly get to the “cheap Chinese homage” conclusion.  That kind of disappoints me.

My Seikos get no comment because they are pretty much what they are to the casual observer, but I appreciate them as good value and slowly appreciating tool watches.

But I would like to receive a proper  appreciation from something like a Speedy, where the casual observer probably knows most of it – starting with “Omega” recognition and going further depending on their knowledge, but allows me to actual complete the background Story over a Pint with a appreciative conclusion.

I know this is a little egotistical, and maybe it’s the wrong reason for buying watches who knows, but I like stories about my watches and I take pleasure from the listener appreciating the last chapter rather than going away disappointed   And of course, everyone likes nice things…  So I don’t want to be in the middle ground of owning 10 low-mid range pieces that – my own indecision – means most of them will not get worn.

I’m in a similar dilemma re. A birthday watch as it’s my 40th this year.
I came close to a Speedy a year or so ago, I tried one on a few times and for reasons I couldn’t work out, it just didn’t work for me. It’s a lovely watch but was missing something for me.
I’m drawn to a Breitling Navitimer, tried one of those on and loved it…but still haven’t clicked the button.
I need the dealers to open up again and have a good wander round, try on lots and see what I really want. Either that or just accept I’m going to have to pay silly money for a Daytona or a Hulk.

Since we’re still talking about watches for investment whilst heading into what could be the worst recession in living history, let me share an old Seiko I bought with the hope of making a few quid on if I were to sell-

It’s a 6138-8020 from 1975, also known as the Panda and I picked it up on Ebay a couple of years ago as a cheap fixer-upper for £650 when the going rate was £1k+ for a good one and some chancers asking up to £2k. The crown was missing and it needed a new crystal so £50 in parts along with new gaskets and a movement service should see a nice profit if/when I decide to sell…

Here’s how it arrived –

The top sub dial hand needs painting and the minute sub dial hand is detached. This is when I also notice the pushers are wrong and sticking out too far and the case has been over-polished. The red tip on the seconds hand has lost a bit of paint and the tachy ring is misaligned but both easily rectified.

The condition of the dial is by far the most important consideration when buying vintage so this next shot is when you find out if you’ve bought a munter or not –

There’s a bit of loss on the minute markers between 25 and 39 and paint loss on the edge at 10 where the tab for locating the tachy ring has been pressed back. The dial lume has turned the same grotty green/black as many Seiko’s of this age do but as it’s only only on the tips of the indices barely noticeable. The hands are dirty but the lume is clean enough and any other marks on the dial are just dirt so I’m pretty happy at this stage.

As with many of the Seiko 6138/9 line, there’s a ton of fake dials, hands and bezels out there so due diligence is essential before committing. I even did a bit of last minute research before buying this one and found a thread on WUS comparing original vs good fake dials and it got to the second page before it was pointed out that both dials in the OP were fake, so even though I was certain I’d bought a good one it was nice to see matching date numbers with the case back –

Dial off and I start pulling it’s pants down –

This is the calendar layer which operates the day and date wheels –

Calendar layer removed to reveal the keyless works at 3, which is basically the mechanism for setting the time and date. Then you’ve got the chrono levers and springs on the rh and the hour recording gubbins (technical term) up near 12.

Top side all stripped –

Flip it over and start on the train side –

Rotor removed to show the auto winding bridge –

Auto winding removed to reveal the chronograph bridge –

Balance and chrono bridge removed to reveal the chrono mechanism –

Chrono layer and train bridge removed showing the train wheels. The wheel in the centre is the chronograph wheel with the vertical clutch and these can fail. Replacements are scarce and the last one I saw was listed at $200 and sold within minutes –

Aw bollox. See the gap on one side of the clutch? That means the spring in clutch has failed and a replacement wheel will have to be sourced –

Just the centre wheel, escape wheel and pallet fork left to remove –

All stripped down –

I refit the balance to the mainplate and remove the jewels for cleaning to discover the balance wheel pivot has rusted and broken off, so that’s another part to add to the list –

I clean the mainspring and barrel by hand while the rest of the movement parts are in the cleaner –

Once the new pushers, crystal, crown, stem and balance wheel arrive I decide to build it back up with the busted chrono wheel. The watch runs fine as long as the chrono is left running so at least I can wear it while I search for a replacement chrono wheel –

I spent the following six or so months looking for a chrono wheel but with no joy. The last time I needed one I ended up taking a chance on a complete movement with no idea if it had a good crono wheel or not, so I ended up doing that again and spent over £200 on a movement. I stripped it down to remove the chrono wheel and found the clutch was good, but the top pivot had snapped off and the tip where the seconds hand mounts was badly rusted –

I was feeling pretty disgusted at this stage but then it occurred that I might be able to take two bad wheels and make one good one, so I set about dismantling them. Here’s the good shaft from the wheel with the busted clutch and the good clutch removed from the other wheel-

Success! –

The only thing left is to build the movement back up, check the chrono is working and then wear the **** out of it!

By the time I’ve ordered a new strap for it I’m into it for over £1k, so not quite the shrewd investment I’d thought it would be, and not to mention the 10-12 hours spent working on it…

I actually tried to sell it for £950 a couple of months back but the timing wasn’t great with lockdown announced a few days later, but I’m glad it didn’t sell because it hasn’t left my wrist for the last few weeks. I love the style of it but it’s the most illegible watch I’ve owned with the black hands over the navy sub dials and black day and date wheels. I’ve decided I’m going to relume it in the hope that fresh white lume in the hands will make it easier to read and I might send the case off to get laser welded and polished by this guy

As for future value, the Panda is one of the most expensive in the 6138 range and has seen the largest rise over the last few years, so in the event of a price correction I expect it to suffer more than most, just like all those Rolex that were in shop windows a few years ago and are now selling s/h way over retail. I couldn’t care less as I bought it primarily because I liked it and not because I saw it as a good medium term investment.

If you’ve got this far then well done you and thanks for reading!

Christ, I consider it a big job when I’m changing straps!

OK, close the thread. Fudd has just completed it. 👍

Christ, I consider it a big job when I’m changing straps!

I’ve got as far as movement swaps and regulation, but yeah, I had similar thoughts while reading that.

Edit, it’s a really nice looking watch too.

Excellent read, thanks Fudd.

Great write up @Fudd that was fascinating.

What an amazing read, thanks for posting Fudd.

Fascinating Fudd. Cheers for showing us that. Lovely watch too

Thanks chaps. I’ve done these type of posts on other non-watch related forums and they always go down well, but I realised I’ve never done one on here. It’s a couple of hours typing and changing image tags so not something I do often but I’ll endeavour to furnish y’all with some more.

OK, close the thread. Fudd has just completed it.

I’ll have you know I’ve changed the battery on a Casio…

Wow.

Really cool post, nice one!

Cheap Chinese Chrono has arrived. 38mm is smaller than I normally wear and that 2mm really makes a difference. I quite like it

How cheap is cheap? And how long did you wait for it?

I like it’s 60’s chrono design.

Is it auto?

Super work there Fudd!

I changed the capacitor in my Seiko kinetic expecting some tiny bit of metal to evaporate with a ping! Never to be seen again.

Actually dismantling a whole complicated mechanical watch and putting it back together! Phewwww, not for me: )

@derek_starship

£170 from a chap in the UK. Showed up in a couple of days. This is the 38mm domed acrylic crystal one. It’s a handwinder

I’ve only seen a small a seagull watch in the flesh once, to about 6 months ago, but it looked smart to me. I’d be interested to hear how it runs over the next few months, do please let us know.

Shouldn’t have come on this thread… looking to upgrade from my £15 HMT Pilot, got about a £250 budget so was looking at the Undone watches but I quite like the looks of those Seagulls. I’m sure the red star would go down well at work…..

Super work there Fudd!

I changed the capacitor in my Seiko kinetic expecting some tiny bit of metal to evaporate with a ping! Never to be seen again.

Cheers! I still get parts vanishing into the ether – last week I was working on an old Omega 752 and there’s a small thin plate that acts as a spring and is held on with a single screw. I went to fit it but the screw slipped and dropped onto the bench. I picked up the screw but the spring had vanished. I spent over an hour on my hands and knees searching for it but no joy so ended up having to order a new one. That little slip cost me £40 ffs.

I love that Seagull 1963 and have came very close to buying one before. The movement is based on the Venus 175 and I believe Seagull bought the tooling from Venus then added a few extra jewels and shock protected the balance, similar to what Poljot did when they bought the Valjoux 773x tooling and made the 3133. The finishing is a bit coarse and I’ve heard the qc isn’t the greatest but it’s a hand wound column wheel chronograph for under £250 new. I’m still tempted…

But I would like to receive a proper appreciation from something like a Speedy, where the casual observer probably knows most of it – starting with “Omega” recognition and going further depending on their knowledge, but allows me to actual complete the background Story over a Pint with a appreciative conclusion.

Your Tag is this watch. I like the silver face.