I’ve got a load of these to mount thanks to Covid-19 freeing up a lot of time for me: https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJOSWMBH/jobsworth-steel-wall-mounted-bike-hanger-(folding-hook)

I’ll be mounting them alternating between higher and lower, and they’ll be going onto a breeze block (or the non-branded alternative) wall. From previous threads there seems to be a mix of opinions about whether or not I should be putting a batten up first. Battens would mean a whole load of wood going up (two different heights and enough to cover the distance between the 4 holes on each of the hooks), but that’s just a 1 time job so not a huge issue. Obviously going straight to the wall would just be looking at a bunch of decent fixings.

Anyone got any strong feelings on the matter?

Assuming they’re the same as the one’s I’ve got six of, they each have 4 screw holes. I just used rawl plugs in the breeze blocks and decent screws (50mm IIRC). The design is quite clever in a way – the wheel doesn’t lever the plate from the wall, any force is directed downwards parallel to wall so the screws shouldn’t move.

I have secured other bikes with a single bolt and never had any problems – four screws is overkill. I’m not sure how a batten would help.

I’ve got a load screwed into brick, had one come down, probably should have used a bigger screw and plug, others have been fine for t years.

wot they said^^

I have 6 of these in my shed.. Cant fault em.. Even hangs my 50lb ebike with no issues👍

Decent 7mm masonry drill bit
Brown rawl plugs
4×50 or 60 screws and you should be golden

E-bike weighs three planets and is held up by a hook with just two screws with Rawl plugs (or other no branded fixings) into breeze block. Use some fat screws about 50mm or more and you will be fine.

They are decent. I’ve got a few, mounted into breeze block. I find it crumbly and therefore horrid to drill into. I had one come down.

I think I could need some better DIY skills though. As an alternative, I’ve got (alongside those hooks) come Klug mounts. But I’ve secured them to a piece of ply, which is screwed and fixed with No Nail adhesive to the wall. Overkill, I suspect, but I don’t trust the breeze blocks.

If your drilling into breeze block a good tip is not use your drill on hammer mode, it’s too violent and makes the hole oversized. Breeze blocks or thermalites are soft enough to drill with just a masonry bit.
6.5mm hole, brown plug and 5x 50/60/70mm screws, which ever you have

I’ve got 6 up alternating heights road bike in the air, mtb back wheel on floor.
All into blocks used one screw each never did do the second screw, they’re all still there.

The first thing to consider when fixing into a wall is the direction of the load. The second is the strength of the wall.
A cupboard or shelf that is being levered away from the wall needs a tougher fixing than a picture or flat screen TV. If the pull is purely downwards a nail is fine, unless it’s in thin plasterboard.
In your case I’d use plugs and screws straight into the block.
The only plugs I use these days are Fischer Duopower. A touch pricey but confidence inspiring and none of that spinning in the hole you get with rubbish plugs.

If drilling blockwork I find black and decker piranha drill bits give a much cleaner hole than a traditional masonry bit designed for hammer work.

I usually pilot hole at about 3mm then 7mm and brown plug.

Those will be loaded in sheer not tension so other advice above seems sound.

I’ve never had a problem drilling directly into breeze block. When you hang things then most of the load acts in shear and not alot in tension. The only issues I’ve had is when I observed the instructions and used the drill size recommended by the rail plug manufacturers. For breeze block I tend to go a couple of mm’s smaller than the specified drill size. You can hammer the plug into the block as it is soft enough for the serrated tangs of the plug to eat into the soft block unlike brick. Then when you screw the screw in it is nice and tight, the plug wont spin in the block and you get a nice tight fit. Also not drilling the hole too long helps. For anything taking any weight like shelves (bikes are light so not bikes) I’ve started using the metal expanding anchor bolts.

As above, if you’re careful then you shouldn’t *need* to use a batten to resist the loads…

I used battens*, though, for the simple reason that it allows me to adjust the position of the hooks to get the optimum spacing and height with differing handlebars, wheelbases, etc over time. Once you’ve drilled the breeze-block you’re much more committed to one position. 🙂

*actually, some cheap-and-nasty decking board covering a broad band of wall to allow for some vertical adjustment.

Thanks folks, seems fairly unanimous on this occasion! Typically, I have three brown plugs to do 6 hooks at the moment. I’m sure this is an essential item though…..