2013 V70 D3 (5cyl 2.0lt 136bhp) 130k miles. Car varies between a couple of days of 8 miles each way commute and an hour or three down motorway for next few days.

Three weeks ago we had a split intercooler hose, the big one from end of intercooler by MAP/Boost Pressure Sensor. Warning light and big whoooshes. Garage replaced hose.
A few days later the same triggered code for boost pressure came up.
I can’t find a leak of air in same area.
The code given covers pressure loss or sensor failure across both MAP/Boost pressure sensors.
The manifold sensor is original. It was filthy, I’ve just cleaned it.
The Intercooler sensor is only 1yr old, Bosch.
Turbo was cleaned a year ago.
Garage is suggesting new turbo… I’m saying try two new sensors (£40ea).

What sage advice?

Sell it.

Why was turbo cleaned ?

How did you clean the sensor ?

Why was turbo cleaned ?

Because garage (mistakenly) told me that was the issue, not the sensor. They cleaned it with some proper machine or other, charged me £300. Refunded half when 4 days later the same warning came up. I changed sensor and solved the issue.

How did you clean the sensor ?

With brake cleaner, held so it didn’t drain into electrics and I didn’t touch sensor in ‘cage’.

Sell it.

With my mileage having plummeted this year, I’m tempted. Then again, it’s the best car I’ve had…

Un plug a sensor n see if you get a fresh fault.

Tbf I’d go for a sensor 1st…

Have you tried the FB Group? Best advice over there…>>>>

I wouldn’t sell it, it’s perfect for what you do innit?

Matt, have a look on the Volvo forum…

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/&ved=2ahUKEwiy27Gq7YDmAhX7WxUIHb5gATcQFjAAegQIBRAD&usg=AOvVaw0H6oF4NX-wpm18lgJLcLRK

I can’t find a leak of air in same area.

Have you done a pressure or smoke test? You cant see leaks unless they are obvious. I like doing a pressure test as some leaks only show up under pressure as things move/flex.

How do you pressure test a whole intake and exhaust system…?

Hacky way would be to hold a rag over the actual intake and see if the car stalls or sucks air in from elsewhere. Same in the exhaust pipe.

If you get a proper (volvo specific) code reader, will it give you readings from each sensor (it does in a Vauxhall, for example)? If so it shouldn’t be hard to spot one reading that’s off enough to cause issues

If you get a proper (volvo specific) code reader, will it give you readings from each sensor (it does in a Vauxhall, for example)?

I have Vida/dice.

The reader/advice from it is to check vacuum pipes and actuator on turbo, and electrical connections to the sensors. It’s one of the few bits it doesnt specify…

My other though is there is an independent Volvo service place in Glasgow. While my garage is good, they are not familiar with D3/5.

I’m tempted to chuck two new sensors in, then if there is still an issue take it through to Glasgow.

Split intercooler cores are a common fault so dont overlook the fact the problem might be mechanical rather than electrical.
If you are getting a wonky signal it might be the right signal but its of the scale so throwing a code, thats really poorly worded but sort of makes sense.

If you are in Glasgow try Volvomax.

Check the original work. I’d redo the work myself – strip, inspect and rebuild.

V70 P2 owner here so not familiar on the P3.
Is the turbo variable geometry?

Is it overboosting due to the vane actuator or vanes sticking hence splitting the original hose?

V N T garret turbo on the 2.0d , so sticky vanes is very possible

And that’s what the garage is concerned about, I am worried mega bucks bill….

Iirc similiar issue with Passats/VW VNT vanes sticking that’s sorted with a tin of MrMuscle oven cleaner.

How do you pressure test a whole intake and exhaust system…?

Find a garage with a proper tester that puts pressurised smoke into the intake and then look for leaks where the smoke escapes.

Or spray easy start around areas you suspect may be leaking and see if the engine races.

Good to see you’re getting some use out of the dice.

30 miles to Comrie and back and so far the warning is of. Perhaps it was just caked in crap after the hose blew.

How do you pressure test a whole intake and exhaust system…?

Intake
At home I use a compressor and a bung with a schraeder valve in it, obviously check how the breather is setup before you pressurize the block/head by accident. Soapy water can help if needed. Garage would normally use a smoke tester.

Exhaust you can normally hear/feel leaks with the engine running, can increase pressure with a rag.

300miles later, the light came back on while idling at traffic lights.

Local garage at lunch = get a new turbo.

Glasgow Volvo specialist = we can look at it, but it is a few hours of labour to check.

gah….

Is it possible for a sensor to work *most* of the time?

Can you view or log sensor output in Vida Dice?

I am not sure if I can view the live or historical output – I will check though.

current code:

ECM-P003A85 Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Position Exceeded Learning Limit. Bus Signal / Message Failures. Signal above allowable range

Fault-tracing
Checking the connectors and hose connector
Check vacuum hoses and connections to/from the turbocharger (TC) control valve (VNT regulator) for blockages, condensation and dirt.

Check the hose for vacuum control of the turbo for cracks or leakage. Also check that the hose has not come loose.

Check that the turbocharger (TC) control valve (VNT regulator) functions and does not jam.

Troubleshoot the turbocharger for mechanical defects for angling the guide rails.

Note! If troubleshooting results in replacement of turbocharger, the turbo system must be adapted.

Troubleshoot the turbo position sensor for electrical faults, that is, short-circuiting to voltage/ground, loose connection, open circuit, or oxidation in connections. Check the voltage supply.
Other information
•Connecting the breakout box
•Signal specification, Engine Control Module (ECM)
•Component specifications, engine control module (ECM)
•Checking wiring and terminals
•Turbocharger (TC)

If you can view live date it is worth checking the output with the engine off (ignition on), engine at idle and ideally log a 3rd gear pull.

You should see atmospheric pressure with the engine off, whatever is normal for your engine at idle and max boost during the 3rd gear pull. If you dont have pressure and just a voltage output try and find what is normal for your engine.

You really need to diagnose the fault though, that starts with knowing it is a leak free intake system. (a lot of assumptions are being made based on that)

If the sensors are cheap enough you could replace as a way of eliminate possible faults, but thats a parts cannon approach.

It sounds like the ecu is not seeing the pressure it expects to see, can be due to a range of issues, boost leak, wastegate, actuator, vnt, sensor, wiring, connector, corrosion etc etc.

Thanks, lots to check this weekend…

Or try the quick fix that works on alot of vw with sticky vvt or vnt turbos. Get engine to normal operating temperature, find a straight ish empty road. Slow to 15 mph, select 3rd gear. Now with a goo bootful of throttle take car up to 4000rpm then lift off fully
Use engine braking to drop to 800rpm. Then accelerate purposely to 4000rpm again, lift off, rinse and repeat
Blows out the egr, gives the vanes a good work out so they spend more time being asked to be shut fully then open fully, will give your dpf a bj whilst at high revs too

Might sound a ball ache but works on mine when it starts dropping into LHM
And EML lights up

As I said above – vanes sticking.
Try Mrmuscle before shelling out for a replacement turbo.
https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/318787-sticking-vanes-vnt-mr-muscle/