Using 130 hubs in a 135 spaced frame.
so would there be any problem in using some ally/steel spacers of 2.5mm either side and then adjusting the chain line accordingly for the spacers
Only gotcha would be that the mech could reach the largest cog on the block. It can probably cope with 2.5mm difference, so crack on.Posted 4 years agojohnellisonMember
would there be any problem in using some ally/steel spacers of 2.5mm either side
I’d say so – look at how thick your dropouts are and how much of the axle they actually cover (i.e. how much of the axle protrudes beyond the locknuts – not a lot). Now remove 2,5mm from each end…
Unless you can replace the axles with longer ones (shouldn’t be a problem on Shimano/other cup-and-cone bearing hubs) then you should be OK, otherwise I’d be looking at getting the frame spaced properly.Posted 4 years agoandytherocketeerSubscriber
Think the Roadrat is 132.5 so can go both ways?Posted 4 years ago
But 130 in a 135 hole, or vice versa, might be pushing things a bit far.
If the dropout plates are sufficiently misaligned, then snapped axles is a side effect. Bin there dun that a few times on my olde worlde Peugeot road bike.
If I did either, I think I’d prefer wider wheel in a narrower hole and splay the dropouts a bit, rather than use tension of the skewer to hold it all together.maximusmountainMember
Saving for my next bike and I am looking at the Cotic X (seen as it has rack mounts, lovely and steel, canti and disc bosses) for the versatility and future proofness of the bike. Currently my cross bike is a 130 spaced bike and I have 3 whole wheelsets and a separate rear wheel for the turbo so based on the amount of wheels I have I want them to be compatible.
I am planning on running it singlespeed for the time being anyway so would there be any problem in using some ally/steel spacers of 2.5mm either side and then adjusting the chain line accordingly for the spacers seen as re-dishing wouldn’t be viable every time I changed the wheels from bike to bike.Posted 4 years ago
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