Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
  • Uppy-downy seatpost advice
  • dumbbot
    Member

    Afternoon,

    Right i’ve got one of those Boardman 2014 generic HT bicycle things, while its never going to be a trail shredding weapon,I got it for buttons second hand and it’s served me well pootling around those Stanes reds.

    So dropper post, yay or nay? If so which?

    Original seatpost is 31.6mm – 400mm, with about 160mm from the collar to the saddle rails. From what i’ve managed to gather a 100mm reverb would just about work.

    Premier Icon P-Jay
    Subscriber

    I’d say so, some people say they’re pointless on HTs but I really don’t understand why, when your rear suspension is just your legs then I’d say have more room to use them when the going gets rough would be even more beneficial, but still.

    There’s a more complex way to do it, but as a rule of thumb measure the amount of post showing when your saddle is at the height you want it for climbing – just the post bit, not the head of it – we’ll chalk that up to ‘like for like’, then subtract 25mm for the seal bit at the top of the reverb – I personally would want the closest travel to that, but less, so if that figure is 140mm I’d go with a 125mm drop, if it was 120mm I’d go with a 100mm because I used to have one that went a little bit over the the height I’d usually have it, yeah they’re infinitely adjustable, but if you have it too high it hurts your back, or did mine anyway.

    If yours is 140mm to the rails, I’d guess that’s 120-130 of actual post, minus the 25mm for the seal so with a 100mm drop reverb you’ll have pretty much the whole thing in the seat tube and you’ll be able to put the saddle as low as possible when you want it out of the way – perfect. (as long as the seat tube is long enough to accommodate the lower part of the reverb, but they come in a few lengths).

    daver27
    Member

    wouldn’t ride an MTB without one nowadays, hardtail or otherwise.

    Premier Icon nach
    Subscriber

    Unless you have almost no standover, there’s totally a point to having them on hardtails.

    Premier Icon ads678
    Subscriber

    The only bike I can’t see the point of having a dropper post on is a road bike.

    Anything that you ride up hill, and then down hill on something rougher than canal tow path could benefit from a dropper of some sort. Lots will disagree but I don’t care so bleerr!!

    pickle
    Member

    Have you felt the burning need for one up to now?

    No nor me, the day I spend £200 on a seat post is the day I give it all up

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    Gamechanger for me, I now really dislike riding bikes without them. (my rigid XC bike had a gravity dropper, my rigid fatbike has a reverb…) Because riding without suspension can be interesting and challenging, but riding fun stuff with your seat up is just crap and stopping all the time is just crap and getting the seat height wrong is just crap and getting the seat squint is just crap.

    100mm doesn’t give the full benefit, to be fair but still totally worth it imo.

    dumbbot
    Member

    Well indeed the current ballpark of £200 for a reverb is about half what a paid for the whole bike, which brings me to question where to draw the line between what makes a cost effective upgrade/enhancement to putting the money towards another bike? Done a few small scale things like tires, grips, outer chainring blahblah..

    A couple of whacks to my knackers lately got me thinking it might be nice to keep the boys out of harm’s way is all.

    You don’t HAVE to buy a reverb, they arent the only option.
    RSP Plummet about £60
    KS E-Ten about £125
    Both work fine, unless you have mates you have to impress or more money to spend.
    As above though, the benefits are massive if you ride any rougher stuff like drops or jumps.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

The topic ‘Uppy-downy seatpost advice’ is closed to new replies.