Having a torrid time trying to mount a tough-fast 2.8in WTB Ranger on Easton Arc35 650b rim.

Could originally get it seated but still seemed to be leaking a bit at the bead, as well as from the tape. Now I can’t even get it to air up.

Using a compressor with valve core removed and fairy liquid on the beads – a method that has never failed me before.

The Nobby Nic on the same front rim has been good as gold.

Starting to think the bead may be too slack. Anyone had similar issues?

Nope, all 4 of my Rangers (2x Tough/Fast, 2x Light/Fast) have been fine, but on Stans rims, the Tough ones were especially easy though as sealed very quickly and took less sealant to do so.

Tried re-taping? I know it’s a pain but sometimes it’s the only way…

I have retaped it four times.

*weary face*

Currently has three wraps of 25mm tape and I was cautiously optimistic of it being airtight. The concave rim bed is infuriating.

Why are you using such narrow tape?

Why are you using such narrow tape?

Because I have about 30 metres of it. It worked fine on one end TBF.

Any more chubby chasers in? Thought this was a popular tyre?

They go up with a track pump for me on Scraper rims.

I have them on WTB rims and they went on dead easy. I do have an airshot which makes life far simpler

I’ve stopped using tubeless tape and gone to gorilla. It seems to work better IME.

Edit. I also use an Airshot – generally a lot easier!

Cheers, must be an unhappy tyre/rim combo.

I was thinking of trying something like Gorilla tape as I guess it adheres to the rim bed more strongly.

Do you just do the bed or up the sides a bit as well?

Just the bed chapaking.

Just a heads up the wtb Ranger do not like being run at low pressure i.e. under 15 psi the side walls on mine are all showing the sidewalls

I’ve had them on Scrapers and I35s. Don’t remember a problem. Other than they had a casing made of soft cheese, but that wasn’t an issue until AFTER they were mounted 😉

Good luck with Gorilla tape. If it doesn’t work, you’ll be peeling off the residue for months!

No problem with mine (but mine came ready fitted on Hope i35 Hoops form Cotic….) 😀

I used one wrap of Stan’s 25mm tape on my DT XM551 rims, 40mm internal.(Ranger 3.0)
Cleaned the rims with mucoff brake cleaner beforehand.

Mount the tyre and run some soapy water around the bead, then pull one side of the tyre on to the bead seat as best you can, you can use your fingers and push from the inside of the tyre.
Hold it in place and pull the other side on as best you can. As long as you can get the tyre tight on the rim it will go up.
I found it easier with the wheel in the bike upside down.
And inflate…worked for me.

Gorilla tape leaked at the spoke holes for me.

Well I got there in the end.

I resorted to inflating with a tube to seal the beads, then leaving on side intact while swapping the tube for a tubeless valve (itself not an easy task).

Ended up with about five wraps of tape in the end. Might buy the correct width next time.

Hi,

WTB i35 ASYM, WTB 40mm yellow tape and Ranger 2.8 Tough.

First time, EVER, didn’t need to swear blindly to put it onto the rim. One pass of tape. Cheap rectangular shape base tubeless valve. Tyre popped onto the rim by hand. Setting in was a breeze…

Cheers!
I.

Dragging this one back up to add some hopefully useful information.

I’ve also been having issues with a WTB ranger tubeless. The bead wouldn’t stay sealed and the sidewalls leaked for ages (on a WTB scraper rim I know is fine). I was quite surprised to have issues as all the TCS tyres I’ve used in the past were great and easy to setup.

Turns out I had mistakenly bought an OEM version that is not tubeless compatible (cheap from classifieds 🙁 ). It does not have any markings/logos apart from the WTB and ranger markings (no big TCS logo). I contacted WTB to get the version confirmed and if there is no big TCS logo then it’s not a tubeless compatible version. Since I don’t want tubes I’ve had to buy another tyre.

Not much help, but I’ve got an OEM Trailblazer 2.8 on the back and a TCS Bridger 3.0 up front. They both went up fine with a track pump on the original rims my Beast of the East 3 came with.

I’m having the same issue with a tough fast Ranger that looks genuinely aftermarket (TCS logo). It seems because the side walls are so thick the bead doesn’t like to weld itself to the rim hook. Not sure how to fix the issue.

I have in the past run sealant around the outside of the bead before inflation so there was something sticky all the way around.

My replacement proper TCS tyre went up first time. I did however have a secondary issue where I realised the tape I had been using was not gorilla tape (must or run out and forgot). It’s was just standard crappy duct tape.

Add an extra lap of tape near the bead to create a Tighter interface.

Add an extra lap of tape near the bead to create a Tighter interface.

Of course, basics – I should have remembered from the last time this happened. Thing is though, I’m trying to seal it on a WTB i35 rim (came with my 2018 Whyte 909). You’d think I’d have a fighting chance with the same brand rim that has a suitable width.

Mine has been faultless. It was a tenner, so probably OEM. Nearly every story of woe seems to come back to using narrow or shite tape… why try and take that shortcut?

Gorilla black for me everytime from now on – Made the mistake of trying some cheapo Wilko tape – leaked like crazy through spokes – Next I tried some Gorilla Clear which was expensive – again it didn’t work (Grrrr) When I took the tyre off all the clear Gorilla had lifted up – Nothing more demoralizing than a third go at taping up a rim – Went back to standard Black Gorilla – It just works – You can tell during taping things are going as they should – I don’t worry about width – I use a fresh Stanley blade to cut it right into bead hook ..

I’ve ordered 10 yards of Stans 36mm tape and will wrap it twice. Not had issues with Stans before. Just hate the residue of Gorilla tape, but if Stans fails, what width of Gorilla is available – 36mm?

Gorilla is wider than than, 40mm or 45mm I think.

Of course, basics – I should have remembered from the last time this happened. Thing is though, I’m trying to seal it on a WTB i35 rim (came with my 2018 Whyte 909). You’d think I’d have a fighting chance with the same brand rim that has a suitable width.

You would have thought…right?

I have the same rim. and the one time I have had an issue sealing a tyre was with a WTB Trailblazer in the light casing. I ended up sticking a tube in at high pressure overnight, then removing it….so at least one side was already in place and the other had memorised the shape it was supposed to be. Thankfully just popped on after that.

The only problems I’ve ever had with WTB TCS regular or plus tyres on WTB TCS rims were when I was trying to make the Uberbike ‘sealant’ work. As soon as I swapped to a known brand the problem went away.