wheels developed a bad leak around the valve area.  stripped the tyre, checked for holes, all looks good, set it up again with more milk but it just p1sses out from around the valve hole when inflated and wont seal up.

stripped it right back now, so taken the tape off as it was looking a bit tatty around the edges anyway.  not sure what tape it is but probably gorilla tape, i never got on with the yellow stuff anyway.

ive got a bit of tape residue on the rims but ill scrape that off and lay some more tape on it.

ive had a good look at the wheel (all it says is stans notubes, no model as such) and its 21mm across the inside of the rim, where the tape goes.  my question is, should i be looking at wider tape so it goes up the rim slightly?  and if so what width would you recommend?  gorilla tape still the best ‘ghetto’ tape to use?  looks like i only need one wheels worth (2m) but if it makes sense ill buy longer in case i need to do it again sometime soon…..

any good videos for laying the tape?  i know to stretch it as tight as possible but not sure about the best way of pushing into the sidewalls, just keep it central and push out as you go along?  overlap the spoke holes either side of the valve hole and then a couple of stanley cuts for the valve to finish with?

thanks for your help, its been a while since i faffed around with wheels 🙂

This method always works for me.

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Gorilla-Tape-Tubeless-Conversion.html

Gorilla Tape or any “other brands are available” heavy duty tape of same kind. B&Q own brand I think was last I used.

Its a stans rim so dont whatever you do have any tape up the side of the rim and under the bead hook, unless you think latex on you and your walls is a good look.

I would go 20mm if I couldn’t find 21/22. Stans typically have a pretty flat bed so dont need much extra width, and also avoid thick tapes like gorilla, for the above reason. Stans really work best with regular tape – the TESA stuff you get on fleabay is generally fine.

Use the external width of the rim, when you push the tape down into the well of the rim it will end up being a snug fit.

I start about 150mm to one side of the valve hole then tautly pull the tape as I apply it to the rim. Needs a good tension but not tug-o-war tight! Keep it central and work your way around the wheel until about 150mm past the valve hole. Make sure there are no creases. Now, either with finger/thumb or something like the rounded end of a tyre lever press the tape into the well as firmly as you can. Go all the way round and then repeat alongside each bead. If you haven’t been absolutely accurate with putting the tape on then go round with a sharp knife and remove any lengths that foul the bead channel. Finally push something sharp through the valve hole from the inside to mark the tape then use that to make a very small cut and push the valve through the hole and fit the locking ring finger tight.

Done all mine the same as”whitestone” very easy to do

Stans really work best with regular tape – the TESA stuff you get on fleabay is generally fine.

wow thats cheap!  nearly bought 60m worth, but then saw a ‘handy pack’ of gorilla tape at 25mm width, 9m worth for less than a fiver.  thought ill take a punt on that, and ill fit it as recommended above ^^^

thanks for your help.

deadkenny has it

has anyone got an easy way of cleaning all the sticky tape glue from the dish and walls of the rim?  slowly picking away at it with a plastic tyre lever but wondered if theres anything easy.  green kitchen scourer with fairy liquid or something?

Electrical insulation tape worked fine for me. Narrower than the “trough” of the rim, pulled tight, and three laps around.  Cut a tiny X at the valve hole befire poking through.

To get a good adhesion make sure the rim is slightly warmed. Not hot, just a bit above room temperature. Helps it sick nicely.

Stans cheap(ish) at Evans