Longtime SS-er here. Until v recently all my off road bikes were SS. Random observations:
1 1/8 chains are for fixed and BMX, overkill for MTB & CX, 3/32 chains (8/9 speed) are what you want.
If you just want to try it out for cheap, pick the approx ratio you want from the setup you have and ziptie your shifter, see how it goes.
If you want to convert a standard frame (threaded BB, vertical dropout) then you need some means of taking the slack out of the chain. Magic ratio is a waste of time. Plenty good options above. I found a Surly tensioner a bit flimsy, like the look of the chain device solution above! Got a plan in mind with that for an idle frame.
Track ends with disc brakes is a pain. I like my Inbred but rear wheel punctures are a drag.
The Philcentric is lovely looking but I know you need a special tool and the range of adjustment can’t be very big.
My favoured setup is the BEER components/Wheels Mfg press-fit eccentric cups. I’ve one frame with BB30, another with PF30 (both 24mm Shimano fitment) and they’re great. Bearing change maybe annually. Easy to adjust with a hex key and a lockring tool. Big range of adjustment and when you reach the limit, just take out a link and back to the start (although it’s probably new chain time by then). As long as everything’s greased and tightened there’s no slipping or noise. Chain tension’s how you want it and you use vertical dropouts, so easy wheel changes and no brake issues.
I use these with micro-cassette body hubs (Stans 3.30SS or Hope trials) and Gusset DoubleSix sprocket, nice wide footprint so the freehub body isn’t chewed. Hub’s wider and stiffer (I guess) but has enough room for spacer adjustment to get the chainline right.