- Trying singlespeed
Now I have a spare bike again, I’m thinking about setting it up as SS for the winter (at least). Trying to do it as cheaply as possible.
I’m looking at a generic SS spacer/sprocket kit (probably 18T), a 32T chainring to go on some Truvativ 2x cranks (thanks weeksy) and either a tensioner or a half-link.
Should I go for a SS ring and chain?
Is the half-link a good idea or should I buy a tensioner?
TIAPosted 1 month agoepicycloSubscriber
Should I go for a SS ring and chain?
Much better than using stuff that is designed around making it easy for the chain to derail.
You get the benefit that you can run your chain with some or heaps of slack without worrying about derailment.
That allows you to use Magic Ratio with a bit of leeway for wear, and no need for a tensioner (bodgy things).Posted 1 month agokcalSubscriber
Tensioner I’d say. Though I have half links, I find that that wear eventually (soon) leads to needing to re-adjust again. Don’t bother with SS chains (e.g. PC-1) – get a bog standard KMC 8 speed instead.
Might have a spare SS ring, much better things. You’ll need short chain ring bolts too.
Was out on my SS today – just quick trip. Few more spins on that and I’ll be lot fitter (you’d think).
[Edit: sounds like your contacts have sorted you out. I have bits of a VeloSolo kit from when the Peregrine went SS. Would always keep my Kona SS I reckon (the one I had fro BJ’s rideout); it’s stayed built up beyond the M2 which I’d never have expected ]Posted 1 month agokerleyMember
Yep, 7mm base cogs are the widest I have found and I use Gusset Double Six as good range of tooth sizes, fairly cheap and come in 3/32.
I also use 8 or 9 speed chains as you can get better quality chains than single speed chains which are typically made for cheap applications.Posted 1 month agoalexnharveyMember
I like the sturmey archer s3x sprockets for singlespeeding, paired with a 1/8 chain. Also spreads the load on the freehub a bit better without the expense of a wide foot sprocket.Posted 1 month agospooky_b329Subscriber
If buying a new ring, consider an Oval to reduce the gnnnnnnnggggg! bit when you try and heave the pedals over the dead spot on steep climbs 🙂 32×18 is a good gear on a 26er for hilly riding, might still be a bit high if you are on a 29er.
I’d go for a tensioner, ideally one that has the extra spring so it can push up and increase chain wrap on the rear sprocket.
I’ve always run 1/32 or whatever 9 speed is, partly as it means I can reuse bits from my geared bikes, and also as I read somewhere that its no weaker than 1/8th.Posted 1 month agoepicycloSubscriber
I’ve always run 1/32 or whatever 9 speed is, partly as it means I can reuse bits from my geared bikes, and also as I read somewhere that its no weaker than 1/8th.
It’s not a question of being weaker or stronger, it’s more a question of lateral flexibility.
A 9 speed derailleur chain will bend nicely sideways whereas a proper singlespeed chain will hardly bend that way at all.
That feature of the 9 speed is designed to allow it slip sideways off the sprockets smoothly, not a feature you want on a singlespeed if you’re planning to reproduce.
The bonus is singlespeed chains are ridiculously cheap and longwearing.
For best results: singlespeed chain, and singlespeed (or hub gear) sprockets and chainring with fully formed teeth.Posted 1 month agon0b0dy0ftheg0atMember
Decent prices at PX fos SS gear…Posted 1 month ago
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CHSRP1XYZ/sram-pc1-1-8-single-speed-nickel-chain £6Malvern RiderMember
Watching with interest as I have a singlespeeded P7 that for some reason recently began grumbling at me. The chainline is fine AFAIK. It’s a 9 spd (chain and ring) converted with an SS kit (sprocket and spacers). No need for tensioner as sliding dropouts. Thing is it’s now making graunch-ey clicky noises and weird feels when under power (ie when climbing)
For best results: singlespeed chain, and singlespeed (or hub gear) sprockets and chainring with fully formed teeth.
Is that like BMX chain, sprocket and chainring? Or Narrow-wide?Posted 1 month agokerleyMember
Is that like BMX chain, sprocket and chainring? Or Narrow-wide?
BMX stuff is typically 1/8 inch so you end up with a wider and heavier chain that is also typically lower quality.Posted 1 month ago
For the ideal setup I would use a narrow wide chainring, a narrow wide cog and a 9 speed chain. But then I hate tensioners as they look crap and have always used frames with track ends or EBB so the chain coming off has never happened, ever.
We make (yes, actually make) stainless singlespeed stuff. 3/32″ or 1/8″ 😁 I don’t know if I can post a link or not? The teeth have a nice square peak so they really hang on to the chain. No wide base cogs (yet).
37/19 (on 26″) here, 37/18 if I’m doing a bit of cycle lane/road stuff or for DH racing.
KMC single speed ‘no drop’ chains are ace, the side plates are deeper than geary chains so they’re less likely to jump off when it gets bumpy and as @Epicyclo said, they’re (singlespeed chains, not KMC specifically) stiffer (pfft!) side-to-side than geary chains.Posted 1 month agocharliedontsurfSubscriber
I would avoid half link chains. They are bent, each plat goes from ide to narrow, and they like to straighten out over time. the new Bikemongers have agood selection online. KMC was my favourite.
A tall toothed front ring will help keep your chain on. Surly make these in steel.
Hold on, I made a video about this a million years ago…Posted 1 month agobinnoMember
Take the time to get your chain line straight, Makes the world of difference to efficiency and longevity of your drive train. Assuming you’re using a vertical dropout frame with a tensioner (there’s an old rear mech trick you can try achieve the same result). I’ve found horizontal dropout frames give a better single speed experience in case you get hooked.
BTW the size of your rear tyre will effect your gear inch / how low or high the gearing is. Smaller tyres make a given gear lower and larger tyres will increase the gearing if you find yourself wanting to fine tune the ratio you start off with.Posted 1 month agokrixmeisterSubscriber
@Scotroutes – if you want to go super cheap, just for a try-out, you can absolutely just an SS spacer kit, and rest of your drivetrain as-is. With a short piece of cable you can hack a rear derailleur into a tensioner, and just go for it.
I did the US MTB SS champs last month with just that setup, using a 10 speed chain (’cause that’s what my MTB normally is) and lived:
Sure, it’s nice to have a full EB or track-dropouts equipped steed, but for testing out and seeing if you like SS go cheap and simple.Posted 1 month ago2tyredMember
Longtime SS-er here. Until v recently all my off road bikes were SS. Random observations:
1 1/8 chains are for fixed and BMX, overkill for MTB & CX, 3/32 chains (8/9 speed) are what you want.
If you just want to try it out for cheap, pick the approx ratio you want from the setup you have and ziptie your shifter, see how it goes.
If you want to convert a standard frame (threaded BB, vertical dropout) then you need some means of taking the slack out of the chain. Magic ratio is a waste of time. Plenty good options above. I found a Surly tensioner a bit flimsy, like the look of the chain device solution above! Got a plan in mind with that for an idle frame.
Track ends with disc brakes is a pain. I like my Inbred but rear wheel punctures are a drag.
The Philcentric is lovely looking but I know you need a special tool and the range of adjustment can’t be very big.
My favoured setup is the BEER components/Wheels Mfg press-fit eccentric cups. I’ve one frame with BB30, another with PF30 (both 24mm Shimano fitment) and they’re great. Bearing change maybe annually. Easy to adjust with a hex key and a lockring tool. Big range of adjustment and when you reach the limit, just take out a link and back to the start (although it’s probably new chain time by then). As long as everything’s greased and tightened there’s no slipping or noise. Chain tension’s how you want it and you use vertical dropouts, so easy wheel changes and no brake issues.
I use these with micro-cassette body hubs (Stans 3.30SS or Hope trials) and Gusset DoubleSix sprocket, nice wide footprint so the freehub body isn’t chewed. Hub’s wider and stiffer (I guess) but has enough room for spacer adjustment to get the chainline right.Posted 1 month ago
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.