Trip to Skye

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  • Trip to Skye
  • Premier Icon blanklook
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    I am going to Skye next week for 4 days with wife and couple of friends – have nice hotel arranged already so no ability to change plans…need advice on
    1. We want to go walking – medium strenuous (reasonably fit…err middle aged) but ideally away from the masses or at least with not too many people around. Any recommendations of full/half day routes to try? We are staying nr Colbost and have car.
    2. Sounds like we will prob have midges – not overly worried about this – cover up and use smidge – any other recommendations?
    3. Rainy day activities or other stuff to do – distillery perhaps?

    Any thoughts appreciated from those in the know.
    Thanks

    ElShalimo
    Member

    look at the OS maps on Bing Maps and plan a nice half-day walk near Neist Point lighthouse?

    scotroutes
    Member

    Sligachan to Loch Coruisk via the shoulder of Sgurr na Stri. Return via Camasunary.

    Good day out. Take provisions.

    CraigW
    Member

    Worth a trip to Raasay. Nice walk up Dun Caan, and there’s a wee distillery, away from most of the crowds.

    Or take a trip on the Glenelg ferry. Just make sure your brakes are on…

    Premier Icon jimilindley
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    What scotroute says, defo

    Premier Icon kcal
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    Walk in to Loch Coruisk from Elgol – either past or stop at the Bad Step. Trotternish Ridge is good but ideally want a car at either end.

    rossw
    Member

    I could not recommend anything based around Neist Point. Horrendously busy.

    Given that you have suggested strenuous, I would recommend having a go at getting up to one of the corries off the ridge; Coire Lagan or Bhastier would be recommendations. They give a real feel for what the Cuillins are about.

    Closer to where you are staying, I would recommend a circular walk; down to Lorgill (easy road/track) and then back over the Hoe, Ramasaig Head and Waterstein Head.This is a stunning cliff walk. Bonus is you will see Neist without going anywhere near it.

    Finally, a tour of MacLeod’s tables would be a strenuous half day and you won’t see anyone!

    Premier Icon blanklook
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    I said medium strenuous ;-). Had heard that Neist can get a bit grim… Thanks for the suggestions – more the merrier.

    Premier Icon slowoldman
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    Given that you have suggested strenuous, I would recommend having a go at getting up to one of the corries off the ridge; Coire Lagan or Bhastier would be recommendations.

    I would second walking up into one of the carries. Coir a Ghrunnda from the campsite at the end of Glen Brittle is a not too strenuous way of getting close to the Cuillin Ridge.

    Premier Icon matt_outandabout
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    Enjoy the crowds.

    Premier Icon convert
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    Enjoy the crowds.

    He’s not wrong.

    We drove through Syke (landed in Uig, drove off over the Bridge a couple of hours later) just before the English schools broke up. Didn’t look too bad. But a friend on the other hand was on holiday there end of last week and over the weekend. She sacked it off early and moved on because it was too busy to be enjoyable. All the honeypot locations were full to bursting with the council towing cars parked on verges and parking attendants ticketing. Stressed tourists being arseholes to one another and police on the bridge again (I think it happened a couple of years ago) encouraging tourists to think again.

    Seriously – are those plans definitely not flexible?

    vongassit
    Member

    This place is a nightmare just now 😑

    Premier Icon matt_outandabout
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    Oh, also book your evening meals before you depart home.
    I’ve had three friends and colleagues on three trips this summer ending up eating from the cold aisle of the CoOp, having been laughed out of any restaurant and one even turned away from the chippy as the queue was too long…

    Premier Icon seosamh77
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    ideally away from the masses

    A km or 2 away from carparks should sort that! 😆

    Premier Icon dms01
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    Glen brittle campsite +/- car park
    The walk to the end of the peninsula, ruined Brock, view across to Rum. Flat if in places a touch damp. Sit of end of cliff, watch for whales, seals and dolphins
    Corrie Lagan busier but definitely WOW

    Or to be virtually crowd free, follow the path to the southern end of the ridge, then climb up to the last peak. Walk back along the narrow grassy ridge, and eventually into the Corrie. Requires scramble out, but for all the world looks like Mordor…

    Premier Icon ransos
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    Finally, a tour of MacLeod’s tables would be a strenuous half day and you won’t see anyone!

    That was literally true when I walked them. Surprised to hear that other places are so busy though – has it changed in the last few years?

    Premier Icon convert
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    has it changed in the last few years?

    Massively. Especially in summer school holidays. If you are not limited to school holidays it would be a very poor choice of time of year to go.

    Suggestion above re Glenbrittle is good IF you are able to pass the chaos around the fairy pools which is completely fouling up the road a couple of miles north. I guess setting off before breakfast, having food for breakfast and lunch on you so you are not reliant on getting into a cafe, and as someone said above walk more than a couple of km from a car park and it might be tolerable. Extracting you car from the car park later would then be you only issue. And avoid any tourist orientated wet weather alternative like distilleries.

    mrb123
    Member

    There is a pleasant walk round Glen Brittle forest you can do. Pretty self explanatory if you look at a map.

    Boat ride from Portree to see the sea eagles.

    Walk round the Quiraing.

    Climb Bruach na Frith, the easiest top on the main ridge.

    Old Inn at Carbost is a great pub. Look out for the live music nights.

    Premier Icon NewRetroTom
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    It’s hard to believe how busy Skye is these days. As a kid I went on family hols there every year from the late 1980s to the late 1990s. Fairy pools we pretty much always had to ourselves, even in July.

    Premier Icon convert
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    It’s hard to believe how busy Skye is these days. As a kid I went on family hols there every year from the late 1980s to the late 1990s. Fairy pools we pretty much always had to ourselves, even in July.

    It is. Glenbrittle campsite is an interesting example of the transformation. Even 5 years ago (around the time of the infamous Danny Macaskill fence flip at the campsite in his ‘The Ridge’ vid and Bear Grylls using it as HQ for making one of his programmes) it was still a pleasant little thing mainly the preserve of more adventurous families and walkers. No electrical hookups and a tiny fridge in the warden’s office which had a few pints of milk and packs of sausages at the end of a long singletrack road past the fairy pools. 5 years on it has 120 electrical hookup pitches and employs ‘baristas’. But it’s still at the end of a long single track road past the fairy pools. Only snag is 120 families that would have previously not been prepared to forgo electricity and home comforts are daily dragging their white boxes up and down the inappropriate lane with a gazillion overseas tourists in hire cars who have never driven on a singletrack road also in the mix.

    Premier Icon augustuswindsock
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    The cuillin ridge is a nice little outing, take sandwiches!

    Premier Icon tillydog
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    Glenbrittle campsite […] 5 years on it has 120 electrical hookup pitches and employs ‘baristas’.

    Gawd almighty! That shatters my illusions. I have fond memories of ‘upgrading’ from a soggy tent to a crooked caravan (clamped to planet earth by a couple of wire ropes over the top) on one of our abortive attempts at the Cuillin ridge, years ago. I sort of thought it might still be the same. Obviously not…

    Premier Icon slowoldman
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    Yes I spent a delightful 5 days in a tent at Glen Brittle years ago (we were the only two people there) waiting for the rain to stop for a ridge traverse. It didn’t.

    Premier Icon blanklook
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    Thanks for all the replies. No I definitely cannot change the timing – and determined not to regret it in advance…hence the request for out of the way places. Have dinner booked!

    We will prob try one day out in the South around the ridge – thanks for the suggestions. But sounds like we will be better off keeping close to where we are staying or further North.

    Premier Icon GavinB
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    Hunish peninsula is a great area to explore (right up in the north of the island). Easy walking mostly, except for a short steep section down through some crags onto the peninsula itself. Amazing sea cliffs with great views out to Harris, and one of the best spots to sit watching for whales and dolphins.

    Premier Icon zippykona
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    More pictures please.

    scotroutes
    Member

    Lyrics from a 1978 song (translated from Gaelic)

    The leaves are dancing

    From the trees in the wind

    The browns of autumn are turning our year around

    Now that the summer visitors have gone

    Content is the way you left me to my island

    The lochs and the bays are all mine

    My heart rests easy on the winter hills

    Now that the summer visitors have gone

    The day is over, the shops have closed

    The castle will get a night’s peace

    Money will get some respite

    Now that the summer visitors have gone

    They changed our means of livelihood

    They altered our language and way of life

    But autumn, I can only welcome you

    Now that the summer visitors are gone

    Island autumn

    Northern autumn

    We can live a little like we used to

    Before the crowds came

    The heather on the hills

    And the sunlit forests

    Will reveal their colours for us

    Until they return again

    dashed
    Member

    We went about 3 years ago and marveled at how beautiful and quiet the place was. It was early Oct when we visited but during a spell of lovely settled weather. Hardly saw a soul at Neist where we had an grand day climbing at the crag just under the car park / road. Friends went up earlier this year in May time, outside of school hols, and said it was horrendous and they’d never go back!!

    Premier Icon bedmaker
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    Yeah, it was mad there today..
    2019-08-13_08-28-24

    My recommendation would be to take a look on Instagram, check out the top ten #skye, and then keep well clear.

    Is third the Sligachan Coruisk route. I did most of it today. Bike to Camusunary, cross the river and then up Sgurr na Stri to take a look at the aircraft crash site.
    Found a thing –
    2019-08-13_08-26-44

    The carpark was insanely busy, but 99% are spewing from tour buses, taking a snap of the old bridge, and moving to the next photo op.
    Almost made me come across all Tracksterman, but the hordes of Chinese tourists seemed exceedingly jolly. Each to their own.
    Twenty seconds riding and it’s all but deserted though.
    Expect similar everywhere, apart from the Quirang and Old Man.
    Driving is a ballache currently, accept you will be trundling along most of the time.

    Premier Icon bedmaker
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    Pics there somewhere, Drac will be enjoying them on his iPad no doubt

    Premier Icon blanklook
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    Thanks all again. Looks like the Quiraing would be good to do. @scotroutes your suggested route to Sgurr na Stri – would that include the bad step? Or can you go to the top and down to Camasunary via the SE slope? Is fording the river at Camasunary troublesome?

    Premier Icon blanklook
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    Well first day today – did the Hoe, Waterstein Head loop (thanks @rossw)- did not see one single person for the full 6 hours we were out. Fantastic views between the showers. Beautiful place…no problems driving so far too. Hoping to go up to North tomorrow to look at Quiraing and possibly Hunish if we have time. Thanks all!

    scotroutes
    Member

    @scotroutes your suggested route to Sgurr na Stri – would that include the bad step? Or can you go to the top and down to Camasunary via the SE slope? Is fording the river at Camasunary troublesome?

    Just saw this. Yes, that route includes the Bad Step. I’d not let that worry you, it’s really very, very simple. There’s a massive groove in the rock.

    The river crossing is (normally) just fine. At low tide there are stepping stones across the river. If these are covered then just head upstream a little and paddle across barefoot.

    Premier Icon kcal
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    @bedmaker – There’s quite a tale of the F111 – Heavy’s blog has several articles (as one of the first on the scene).
    Skye – F111 Crash 7 Dec 1982 – Sgurr na Stri .

    Got to say that I’m struggling with these Skyemaggedon visions of mobbedness that people are relaying.

    I went in July two years ago to do the ridge and it wasn’t at all busy.

    I don’t think I passed single car driving down glenbrittle the first day.

    And the second day I definitely didn’t pass anyone on the road. Though admittedly Fairy Pools was occupied.

    Hell I almost failed to find someone to belay me on the Inn Pinn. Nowhere near as many people as expected.

    Fair enough the first trip down Brittle was at 5:30am and the second was at 3am the next day, so I guess that’s not representative…

    And Sgurr Dearg is defo more than ten minutes from the road.

    But the campsite and pub weren’t that mobbed.

    Premier Icon blanklook
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    OK back home now. Second day at the Quiraing. Definitely more crowded and car park full by 8.30 am. Walk around was fairly busy and sad to see steep route up hill badly scarred. There were some absolute numpties on the road down to the East (eg overtaking whilst waiting in a passing place) and took some some time to get down. Sadly did not get up to the far north due to one of the group twisting ankle…the Trotternish Ridge though is beautiful.
    Will defo go back – need at least a week or even two (we were actually pretty lucky with weather) but will not go in August next time. Final comment is that virtually every local we spoke to moaned about the number of camper vans – a combination of clogging up the roads/ “wild” camping/ and not spending whilst on the island.
    Thanks for all the suggestions – @scotroutes thanks for the reply re Bad Step – that routes sounds perfect.

    My ex-wife’s uncle was the navigator on the crashed plane.
    Suggests his navigation wasn’t 100%

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