If you have a Trek bike with a QR skewer and disc brakes then you need to get it checked out at a Trek dealer asap. Details here http://grit.cx/product-recall/2015/04/trek-recall-qr-disc-bikes

Trek are offering £15 Bontrager vouchers for all affected owners.

Surely it’d be easier to just write in capital bold font: RTFM.

If you’re unable to properly tighten the skewers on the bike: don’t ride the darn thing(best take it to your LBS) or don’t be surprised when you fly OTB.

What about all the folks that have “regular” skewers and the wheel gets pulled out from the dropout under braking? Where’s their £voucher?

RTM before you ride. Ride safely!

Your advice is at odds with findings which suggests to avoid the QR skewer loosening, it should be on the disc side.

Disc Brake Safety Issues

Surely it’d be easier to just write in capital bold font: RTFM.

But that won’t get 1000s of customers back through the door of trek dealers to look at all the shiny new bikes….

Surely having your wheel fall off is a more likely outcome if you plan to cycle round with your skewers open?

There was a thread here about someone who had experienced this problem – he’d ripped the wheel down through the bottom of his fork as I recall.

Ah, found it – it was his friend, but it looks like the photos aren’t up any more:
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/my-friend-had-a-problem-with-his-skewer

What kind of idiot doesnt check that their QRs are tight before every ride?

Pinder settled with Fox in 2009.. wasn’t this supposed to be the death of the QR?
’Stoner’ on Pinder V Fox

This is a HUGE can of worms!

Its only a potential issue with disc brakes, so the same qr is perfectly fine for use with rim brakes.

And QRs are such generic commodity item that it is probably impossible to figure out which bikes were originally equipped with the recalled skewers.

And its not just cheap ones that do this, either. I have a DuraAce one that goes well past 180 degrees. But its on a 1985 Ritchey mtb with rim brakes. 🙂

Problem is there are two conflicting problems with QRs and disc brakes – there’s this case where the lever can theoretically get caught in the disc rotor, and there’s the Annan situation where braking forces can force the wheel out of the dropouts.

Two things a good QR should have:

1. A proper cam-over action – i.e. it gets stiffer and stiffer, then there’s a “thunk” as it reaches the end point. Ideally with an enclosed cam to prevent muck getting in.

2. Good serrations on the faces – ideally in steel.

The best QRs are probably standard Shimano ones, nothing fancy.

Ben, as someone closely linked to the original Annan issue of wheel ejections, how much of an issue do you regard side of the wheel the skewer is secured actually is here? Many commenters are suggesting the best course of action is to simply insert the skewer on the other side of he wheel.

Anyone actually tried exchanging one yet?

The best course of action is to replace the skewer with a better one 😉

In my testing, there did seem to be a difference – having the lever on the right made it more likely that the skewer tension would decrease over time. My assumption was that the vibration of the disc brake, and perhaps a twisting twisting motion of the fork, were loosening the nut.

However I only found this if the skewer wasn’t done up as tight as possible – which is the answer in this case too. Both the Trek and the Annan problems are the result of the skewer opening, solve that and both problems go away.

Is this not all down to user error – that is to say not doing your QR up in the first place.

If I have a puncture on my car and fit a spare wheel without doing up the nuts coz I am silly then can I sue Ford for my accident.

Come on people.

Well, yes, partly – though there is a big variation in the quality of quick releases. But what’s important is that, if the QR fails, it does it in a non-catastrophic way – i.e. if it flips open it doesn’t jam the brake.

Shame it took another paralysed rider…

Its not just on Treks, those QRs are on many other makes.They are Shimano QRs.

There’s nothing wrong with the qr itself.

Well, there is really – if disc brake bikes had been invented from scratch, a sensible engineer would never have designed such an attachment system. The problem is that bikes already had quick releases, and disc brakes were bolted on without fully considering the implications*.

Equally no-one thought that fork, disc brake, hub and quick release manufacturers should get together and pin down the best way for these parts to work together.

*Doesn’t help that early discs often didn’t use disc mounts on the fork, they used a reaction arm off the hub axle, which avoids the problem.

smashit – Member
Anyone actually tried exchanging one yet?

I work in a Trek dealer. We had a delivery of skewers arrive the day before the recall went live. It SHOULD be done on the spot. I think we’ve done about 10 this week.
And I don’t think these are Shimano skewers either, just OEM lookalikes. Also, To be fair, ANY brand could be affected by this, it just seems Trek are the only ones doing anything about it.

😕 Silly question but do I have to take both my Trek bikes in to my local dealer or can I just take in 2 QR skewers.

I don’t sold mind and put Hope ones on the Treks that don’t have bolt through.In my local LBS they have done them with the bikes in there.Other shops may to it differently.They also want them to go back 15 years to contact people as well???That will be easy 😉

Silly question but do I have to take both my Trek bikes in to my local dealer or can I just take in 2 QR skewers.

I took a pair of wheels in for some new bearings, and thought I’d get these swapped at the same time. They needed the serial number of the bike, although were happy to have a photo of it emailed to them.

*****