- Track wheels, cheap as possible?
This may be of some use for your build up, in particular the bit about tyre choice which you may have to factor in;
I usualy ride herne hill where tyre choice is not much of an issue and use a pro race 3 on the front and a more track tyre (vittoria diamente)on the rear but i can attest that having a tyre slip half way up Newport banking is an “interesting experience”. Don’t forget pictures of the final build herePosted 6 years ago
molgrips – Member
Thanks for the link. There will be pictures, I haven’t had a new bike in many years
Tubs or clinchers?
where are you racing? tubs supposedly stay up when punctured so got a chance on a steep banking – clinchers supposedly no chance. herne hill this probably makes no difference, newport or manchester maybe it will. i ride clinchers both on my hack wheels and best but thats because I couldn’t be arsed gluing tubs on and i’m slowPosted 6 years agonellypMember
MrSmith – Member
if you contact Jim on LFGSS http://www.lfgss.com/thread90468-7.html#post3564835 he sometimes has one off deals on wheels that are cancelled orders. There’s a code on LFGSS which will get you a discount as well. Great wheels. Great ServicePosted 6 years agonellypMember
One of the big reasons for tubs is the pressures you can go to, 200psi/14 bar (if your pump will take it!) is quite normal for the indoors. You won’t get that with clinchers. This has a massive effect on the rolling resistance on a smooth wooden track
As has been said, tubs are more stable if you flat, which makes them lots safer.
And the argument about gluing them on is valid, but you’ll only do it once as you’ll probably never puncture indoors and you’d be lucky to wear the tubs out.Posted 6 years agocrikeyMember
My trackie mates used to use tubs, but were always very, very, very careful with them; no rolling the bike along across the car park; always carried. Blow them up at the centre of the track, let them down to 50 or so psi afterwards, and always used wheel bags to transport them.
They also used ball bearing hubs with light oil in and with one ball bearing taken out each side; I think to ‘let the balls run freer’, which I’m not sure made any difference.Posted 6 years ago
Just back from Cyclopedia in Cardiff where I spoke to the amazingly knowledgeable Ian. He reckoned that whilst he could get wheels for £70 ish it was definitely worth spending £120 on the next step up because they’d be a lot faster. Which is really the point on the track.
He also said a track chainset of reasonable quality (£70) and a decent sprocket were definitely worth it. That’d put my whole build at about £420 or so, only marginally cheaper than the whole built-up bike!Posted 6 years agoOmar LittleMember
I use clinchers at the track but that is what the bike came with rather than it being a decision i made. If i was to choose now i’d probably stick with clinchers for the convienience unless i had a couple of sets of wheels, one for training and one for racing. Im using vittoria diamonte pista and they are really nice tyres, about 150g and can be pumped up to 145 psi.Posted 6 years agosamuriMember
Personally, one area I’d avoid saving money on for a track bike, is the wheels. It might look like a nice smooth place but you are going to be putting some serious loads through them as well as better wheels making a much bigger difference on the track than anywhere else.
I’ve seen many, many tubs puncture at the track, they make a hell of a bang. Usually followed by a bit more banging, a bit of scraping and then maybe some crying.
I would never go for any daft wheels with a small number of spokes at the track.Posted 6 years agoMrSmithMember
Most people who ride track (including coaches) use strong traditionally built wheels with high quality clinchers like the Vitoria ones that take a high psi and save the tubs for race day.Posted 6 years ago
If you ride tubs you will want a spare set to swap to if you puncture, have you seen how much a good tub costs and how much they cost to repair?varnoMember
Hi chaps. By way of intro. I run V-sprint and we specialise in singlespeed track and road wheels. We have been giving lfgss a forum price now for three years and supplied 100s of wheels to them. Our background is track and cycle speedway so happy to pass on any advice and tips etc. In the meantime you can see the site http://www.v-sprintwheels.com.Posted 6 years ago
I wonder if v-sprint’s wheels are going to be better or worse than my LBS’s offering.. hmm…
Anyway the frame arrived today 🙂 However the dropouts don’t have those little screw stops to make sure your wheel ends up in the same place each time. Surely without these it makes alignment difficult?
If I’m going to be removing the wheels for transport am I going to have problems? Or is it not an issue? The last singlespeed I rode had 20″ wheels and was made to look like a motorbike.Posted 6 years agovarnoMember
We supply lots of LBS’s in other parts of our business so its always a choice..Posted 6 years ago
Having the stops in your frame will always help with line up but have to slacken off to remove the wheel anyway as the chain is tensioned. The screws are really goo to stop the wheel pulling when under effort more than lining up…
Do I get the LGFSS discount for being on STW? I’m not really a London based fixie rider! 🙂
My LBS said that the cheapest wheels you can get (£70 ish a pair) weren’t much good for track racing and it was better for performance reasons to spend a little bit more, hence the £120 he quoted. I dunno what they are, but do you consider your entry level wheels to be good for racing?
Is there a big jump between those and the £180 ones?Posted 6 years ago
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