Tried to search a few things but not having much luck so wondered if someone could answer my questions?

I’m at the point where my front ring is beginning to resemble a ripsaw, my front mech is seized from atrophy and I just replaced the originl collapsed BB a few miles ago. I’d like to try and reduce the amount of wear and tear parts and hopefully get it running better so as to avoid future catastrophic failure (both wheels seized last year after a winter in the shed, oops :().

I’d ideally like to go to a 1×9 setup as I realised I barely use the granny and when I have it borders on the ridiculous. I can manage short climbs on the big ring and will only get better as I get fitter (plus I can always drop the size a little when I replace it as I wouldn’t miss the top end that much).

So my question is this: what do I then do about my STS brakes? I have Tiagra ST4500 3×9 STI’s and would prefer a lever that is the same profile for obvious reasons, is there a lever out there that will do that?

Next, recommended 110mm ring for road duties?

Finally, my 28 Durano Plus tyres are a bit tight in the clearance department and I’d like to run guards, I already have a chopped up Mk1 Crud on the rack with a cheapo decathlon guard to finish the job out back going on later, is there a guard out there that’s really thin with nigh on zero stack when it sits in the fork? (tried some before but every time the bracket screw head fouls the tyre).

Cheers, Dave

What hubs are you running? Are they cup and cone?

What bb was it?

My best tip is cartridge bearings you can press out, re grease and re fit for cheap running of a commutter bike.

Full length mudguards all year round to stop the amount of stuff flying on to you and your components.

25mm tyres plenty wide enough, no need to go to 28mm IMO (I use 25mm Conti 4 seasons on very pot-holed roads)

Bear in mind its a commuting bike – whatever money you spend on it, will still be cheaper than other forms of transport

if you go single ring you could keep the STI lever just for braking so no need to find a similar looking one

to make more complicated think 110bcd will take compact rings? that’ll get you up the odd hill without having to resort to knee damaging grinding though you’ll still have the front mech to maintain

Sorry, but rather than toughen it up you’ll need to look after it from time to time to avoid these failures.

A quick service once a month, check the bearings etc should keep it on the road.

That or do what I do and deal with the problems as they occur.

Ive got a pair of lightly used 25mm conti gatorskins to sell if you’re after new tyres.

My cross commuter gets a weekly clean and chain lube. It almost picked up a seized front mech before I switched rings a few months back – the standard compact was crazy and so I basically never used the front ring. Granted the 1132 rear didn’t help. ThAts it for ‘almost seized’ though.

I’ve gone 36-46 on the front (110 stronglights) and 12-28 cassette. Cadence spinning works much better now and the ratios are so placed that I actually want to front shift again.

Recent downpours had me wanting guards so it picked up a regular crud rear which neatly fits under the collar on the seat tube. 🙂

Full length mudguards all year round to stop the amount of stuff flying on to you and your components.

This. Full length guards will stop your front mech from seizing up.

Yeah I’m aware that I need full length guards but clearances are very tight. Should probably have mentioned it’s a Genesis Aether I’m running so if anyone knows one that will fit I’d appreciate the tip.

The tyres were what I could get at the time, to be honest they take a lot of sting out of the roads and occasional “off road” bits on the journey. That and they are more forgiving when I’m shattered and hit a random bump on the way home from a back shift

It’s Shimano 2200 hubs, nothing like the best but they’ll do until I can afford something a bit more durable, just need to keep on top of maintenance and not let the cones get damaged.

BB was a low grade Shimano offering, replaced it with an Ultegra.

If I keep the STI will I not have issues with the lever flapping from no cable tension? Suppose I can always see. Either that or get some more sensible gearing and keep the front mech.

Cyclistm – maintenance? Wash your mouth out! (kidding) You make a very good point but I’d like to try and minimise any damage anyway. I travel past a coal yard every day which puts dust everywhere and cruds everything up, probably not helping matters.