What size Torx bit is slightly bigger than an 8mm hex key?

And what size hammer to bang it in with? 😉

Anyone?

I’m guessing at a T50?

You fecked an 8mm crank bolty stu? 😳

Yeah, a T50 is equivalent to 8mm but don’t insert it across the flats like an allen key, insert it (cue big hammer) across the ridges (edge to edge) as it will measure 8.65mm this way and grab the metal bolt head, otherwise you may try a M10 spline.

Give it a healthy whack with a centre punch first as it may help shock the threads first.

Might be worth soaking it in some release oil overnight too.

Not a crank bolt.
It’s a shimano pedal axle that’s refusing to come out.
Crank arm in vice, brand new 8mm socket bit and it’s still wrecked the axle. 👿

Only worry is that forcing it in will flare the end even more and make it harder to get out.

Only other idea is the strip the pedal and see if the vice will grip the axle while I turn the crank.

Just tried a T50 in an 8mm socket and its a loose fit, it almost turns with little effort. A T55 would need hammering in.

The crank arm will be alloy, the pedal axle will be case hardened/tool steel, pour boiling water slowly over the crank arm end and the axle should free off enough to remove with the T50 bit hammered in to place as the alloy of the crank arm will expand at a greater rate than the axle thus freeing the bond.

Sounds daft, but it does work.

Thanks Graham.

Kenny.

I’ve had the crank arm on the gas hob and that didn’t help so i’m thinking it’ll just laugh at me if i pour boiling water on it. 😥

Had one similarly stuck…

Strip pedal, grind to flats on the shaft, clamp in vice and turn crank.

Shame it was an xtr pedal… But it was a six c crank arm.

Anyone know if you can buy spare axles for XT pedals?

Pretty sure you can, ill speak to Madison tomoz.

Ta.

Bugger!, got a welder?, if the axle is fubar then weld a length of bar to it.

Oops dp.

I have access to gas and ark welding kit yes.

Time to breakout the mantools. 😀

Still be good if I can rebuild the pedal though.
It’s only six months old. 😐

Had the same problem as few years ago with an m 540 pedal a couple of years ago. Couldn’t shift it even tried an impact driver.
Ended up stripping the pedal body off, then removing the bearing collar, next ground two opposing flats on the axle, then put axle in a vice and used the crank arm as a lever.
Got replacement axle assembly from ukbikestore for about £20ish.
The hex end of the axle cracked and spleyed slightly, but the crank was fine.

Which pedal is it?

Ark welding kit eh?

Drive/right side M780.

Stu’s ark?,

Leave it to soak in plus gas then pour boiling water in it to get it evaporating, then try and get it turning with a long lever. It’s works a few times for me now. It’s not worked just with heat in my experience, you need penetration fluid on there too and to try and get it evaporating

A long lever isn’t much use when it’s got nothing to turn against. 😉

Found some where that has a replacement axle in stock so it’s grinder and vice time.

Kenny/ Mark.

Stop arking about it’s not helping.

Stop arking about it’s not helping.

Noah chance.

Anyway, I thought you were more a 1×1 than a two-by-two kind of guy….?

Axel kit 20 quid, in stock at Madison. T

Stu – lefty-loosey, righty-tighty. 😉

Cheers goatster.

Rich.

Do one. 😀

I recon it’s the cheap assed crank arms and slight over tightening that caused it to bind.
It took a 2′ long breaker bar to get the other one out and there’s still plenty of grease in the threads. 😯