Torx Bit Question.
You fecked an 8mm crank bolty stu? 😳
Yeah, a T50 is equivalent to 8mm but don’t insert it across the flats like an allen key, insert it (cue big hammer) across the ridges (edge to edge) as it will measure 8.65mm this way and grab the metal bolt head, otherwise you may try a M10 spline.
Give it a healthy whack with a centre punch first as it may help shock the threads first.Posted 5 years ago
Not a crank bolt.
It’s a shimano pedal axle that’s refusing to come out.
Crank arm in vice, brand new 8mm socket bit and it’s still wrecked the axle. 👿
Only worry is that forcing it in will flare the end even more and make it harder to get out.
Only other idea is the strip the pedal and see if the vice will grip the axle while I turn the crank.Posted 5 years ago
The crank arm will be alloy, the pedal axle will be case hardened/tool steel, pour boiling water slowly over the crank arm end and the axle should free off enough to remove with the T50 bit hammered in to place as the alloy of the crank arm will expand at a greater rate than the axle thus freeing the bond.
Sounds daft, but it does work.Posted 5 years agobigyinnMember
Had the same problem as few years ago with an m 540 pedal a couple of years ago. Couldn’t shift it even tried an impact driver.Posted 5 years ago
Ended up stripping the pedal body off, then removing the bearing collar, next ground two opposing flats on the axle, then put axle in a vice and used the crank arm as a lever.
Got replacement axle assembly from ukbikestore for about £20ish.
The hex end of the axle cracked and spleyed slightly, but the crank was fine.ChrisAMember
Leave it to soak in plus gas then pour boiling water in it to get it evaporating, then try and get it turning with a long lever. It’s works a few times for me now. It’s not worked just with heat in my experience, you need penetration fluid on there too and to try and get it evaporatingPosted 5 years ago
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