My kit did arrive today from Woosh ebike shop( good service) and is now fitted. The motor is tiny – like stupidly small. Motor unit weight 3.8 kg total kit weight with 575 Whr battery is 7.8 kilos

Impressive apparent quality on opening the box. All bolts seem to be stainless steel allen screws. Not a crosshead to be seen even the tiny screws on the handlebar unit. All connectors waterproof micro multi-pin plugs bar the main battery connections which are conventional bullet fittings

Fitting – motor unit went on well. no issues. Battery is a bottle mount one – and would not go on with the mounts as they are – but two rivnuts supplied in the kit so that was easily sorted.

Display – rather big and clunky for my liking but loads of info on it and a smaller one is available ( but wasn’t in stock) there is also a optional remote button that sits next to the grip

Wiring – very straightforward the only issue being the usual thing you get with kits – excess wiring to be hidden behind the motor.

Now for the test ride. Pics to follow

Interested in these, I keep contemplating converting my OFO to electric so it could tow a trailer.

What’s the smallest chainring it can take? I don’t want more speed it’s scary enough relying on drum brakes with human power! By my reckoning 32-14 is 15.5mph at 80rpm, so 32-19 is the equivalent in the nexus hub’s top gear.

Didn’t you already have one of these ?

Trailrat – I had a sunstar which broke and no longer any spares for it.. I am being moved sites so back to the long commute ( for me) so needed an ebike again.
TINAS – it takes a standard 5 bolt chainring – so I guess 39 will be the smallest? Mines a 42.

Test ride – very quiet, very smooth power. but seems a little less than some I have ridden but hard to tell on the flat. Church Brae in Liberton will be the test.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iL1fAG]DSC_0007[/url] by TandemJeremy, on Flickr

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iKYCLX]DSC_0005[/url] by TandemJeremy, on Flickr

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iKVTdF]DSC_0004[/url] by TandemJeremy, on Flickr

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iL1fJC]DSC_0002[/url] by TandemJeremy, on Flickr

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iKYCTa]DSC_0001[/url] by TandemJeremy, on Flickr

That’s looks spot on… A lot cleaner install than most I’ve seen. How far do you think you can get from that 575wh battery?

How long is a piece of string? I would hope for around 40 miles using a fair amount of power. Thats given my previous experience of a different but similar kit. Manufactures claim up to 70 miles but who ever gets that?

What’s the smallest chainring it can take?

110bcd so 34t

I have been tinkering and investigating sub menus that you reach with loads of button pressing. Got the “walk mode” turned on. Not much need on a solo but hopefully this will be going on my tandem once I stop work and it could be handy there.

also in the sub sub menus you can alter the speed limit (which I have not done) and also the power levels – again I have not done this – goes up to at least 500w I think

finally you can swap between european mode and japanese mode – anyone got a guess what the difference is? I don’t have a clue.

I dont think you will need that small a chain ring – seems to have loads of torque at low speed and climbs hills easily in middle gears

It was more to give it a sensible top speed, the drum brakes struggle enough with loaded panniers. Just interested in some assistance for shopping trips rather than more speed, and it’d need to fit under the chain guard!

Looks pretty cool. Care to share how much that setup cost?

tinas – the motor cuts out at 15.5 mph and you can alter that speed limit if you want – gearing =will have no effect as it uses a speed sensor on the rear wheel. drum brakes should be plenty powerful enough anyway

Kayak – I paid £650 from a UK supplier. Its also available on alibaba, amazon and ebay
YOu can get it for less but I needed it this week and Woosh bikes had them in stock. YOu pays yer money and takes your chance. Alibaba is much cheaper.

Smaller batteries would save a bit as well

Longer test ride done including some significant hills. I am impressed very smooth power delivery and a smooth “ramp down” as you hit the speed limiter so it doesn’t feel like hitting a wall. Plenty of power in turbo – climbed Arthurs seat at 14 mph with moderate effort.

It take a lot of pressure on the pedals to make the motor work hard especially in lower settings this can be adjusted.

It Wheelies pulling away from lights on the flat in turbo!

Not even one bar off the battery ( out of 6) in 11 miles in turbo half of which is climbing – I’m impressed with that

Sounds good.
May have to order a kit👍

Interesting. Does seem to sit in a vulnerable spot, but can understand why it has to be there.

Thanks for the review! This is something I could see fitting to my Wife’s bike to get her out and about a bit more.
Once my daughter starts school (literally across the road) it would probably be convenient for her to cycle to work & this would definitely help with incentivising that!

Looks good, do you think it would be fairly mud proof?

Sounds good. Bit cheaper than the Bafang.

I would think it fairly water / mud proof but its not aimed at MTBers. Hard use you need to replace an internal plastic gear with a brass one either before or after it breaks according to t’internet

I’ll report back once Iput some miles in

Looks like what I thought was a power adjustment is actually the sensitivity of the torque sensor. It alter the power output you need to reprogramme it which there is ope source software out there for and you do with a modified spare cable an then you need a different screen – or buy a non eu spec one

tinas – the motor cuts out at 15.5 mph and you can alter that speed limit if you want – gearing =will have no effect as it uses a speed sensor on the rear wheel.

More that with a 3s hub there’s only a ~100% gear range (top is about double the bottom), so I’d not want to hit the limiter untill ~80rpm in top otherwise I’d never be in anything other than bottom gear.

Na – you want to be hitting the limiter at 80 rpm in middle – then you have top left for downhill. I was tempted to put it on my 3spd bike but its got properly rubbish brakes

Yo don’t need such low gears anyway – today I was climbing Arthurs seat in 3rd and 4th – 9spd ( 11/34) cassette with a 42 chainring

I have done a few more miles now – 25 to be exact. the battery is still showing full. It has 6 bars but not used any. The riding has been around hilly Edinburgh in turbo so of course only half the time has the motor been working but when it has its been working hard. I am very impressed with that as extrapolating the 70 mile claimed range seems more than possible

Its far from effortless climbing tho – needs you to put in a fair bit of effort to make the motor work hard although that can be adjusted. However the motor clearly is putting in the power as I tried my commute today and took 4 or 5 mins off the time I used to do it with my previous ebike kit. NO traffic of course and the traffic lights were kind . I went all the way up Leith walk at 15 mph – something I could not do without assistance

My only point of concern is that the motor power seems to reduce as you increase cadence – whether that is because you tend to reduce torque at higher cadence I am not sure or is it that it does stop working above 85 rpm ish and I am beginning to hit that. Certainly as you change to a higher gear you can feel a kick of torque. I’ll see how I go but I might increase the sensitivity of the torque sensor

Thanks for the info. Interested in this for the rigid 29.

I looked at one of these for my Big Dummy. Tony at Woosh said that there are some plastic internals that are not as robust as the Bafang kits, didn’t know you could get metal gears as a replacement

Theres a facebook community for these and the mods to software and internal upgrades.

People do use them offroad a lot, though I don’t think they are in UK muddy damp conditions.

Been tempted a few times to get one.

I found in the sub menues a sensitivity adjuster for the torque sensor. turning that up a bit has made the bike feel much faster and accelerate quicker.

Any impact on battery life?

A wee update. I discovered it had been fretting a bit ‘cos the anti rotation mount was not fitting well and the chainstays caught slightly on the back of the casing. A refit with some adjustment of the anti rotation mount required. Otherwise all good and still getting decent battery life and reliable.

I tried fitting it to my old steel roadbike frame – it fitted that better than the mountainbike

When the second hand bike market crashes after the current madness, I’m going to buy an old beater and fit one of these to use for nipping into town.

When the second hand bike market crashes after the current madness, I’m going to buy an old beater and fit one of these to use for nipping into town.

In ten years time, the survivors will be living in sewers, eating rats.

700 mile update

I was having some issues with it reducing power on low battery and cutting out over bumps. traced to the poor main power bullet connectors. I replaced them and its all good. battery range is a bit dissapointing at around 35 miles until range anxiety sets in ( as the display started to go down to one or no bars as you put the power on but goes back to 3 when power is off) but i do ride it in turbo mode all the time and up some reasonable hills

Overall very happy with it. Its just so nice to ride and intuitive. Its as good as the bosch or shimano motors I have ridden now I have turned up the sensitivity of the torque sensor and much nicer than a hub motor. going up leith street and liberton brae at 15 mph is great although I still pedal hardish

I’ve got the same derating issue on my TSDZ2, but I’m using an EM3EV battery and the connections are all soldered. It seems to be throttling power quite early in the battery life as I can get another 20 miles out of it at that point!

Hmmm – I wonder if it intentional or a sign of poor batteries. No way do I get 20 miles out of it after it starts reducing power now more like 3

My kit certainly does this much less since replacing the connections. I put it down to voltage drop from poor connections

Why can’t I work the pictures? Links don’t work?

I deleted them off flikr – sorry
Ill see if i can put a couple back up

Just one, I’de like to see what it looks like..

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jK7E7p]DSC_0004[/url] by TandemJeremy, on Flickr
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jK8twv]DSC_0003[/url] by TandemJeremy, on Flickr
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jK8u2J]DSC_0005[/url] by TandemJeremy, on Flickr

One thing to note is that if you have wide chainstays it may not fit well as it can clash on the chanstays behind the BB. I had to space it out 1mm to get clearance

That looks a lot less shit than I was expecting. Pretty smart!