Gave the rear rim of my (one ride old) DT Swiss G1800 wheels a hefty clatter – it seems to have caught it right on the seam, so I’m guessing this is a dead rim?

It’s already torn that’s going to snap off if you try anything.

I’d say so. Dents can sometimes be recovered, cracks not.

It’s not cracked it’s just been smashed by the join. I’d try and bend it back maybe a little heat and an adjustable spanner. Nothing to loose

Ooof, that’s unfortunate. Is it worth asking about some sort of goodwill warranty claim?

If / when they say no, have a go at bending it. You might get it straight although it’ll be hard to get it to seal tubeless even if it does come straight.

You can see its compromised horizontally, that’s for the bin. Not worth trying to bend back imho.

I’d straighten it and see how it goes, I’ve ridden something similar that I straightened for years after with no issues

I reckon that’s going to snap if you try straightening it.
Zooming in it looks like it’s already starting to go along the bottom.

Bit of gorilla glue, job done.

I am trying to upload a pic of a mates bike that is properly borked. Bloody photo hosting !!!!!

I’d be ordering the replacement rim already

Not yet but try to fix it – that usually finishes the job for me.

Seriously, those cracks where it’s bent look nearly half the depth. I wouldn’t be riding that even if you could get a tyre to seat.

It’s not cracked it’s just been smashed by the join. I’d try and bend it back maybe a little heat and an adjustable spanner. Nothing to loose

Clearly I wasn’t talking about the join 🤣

Can you not see the dirty great silvery cracks?!

Back in the day when Mavic d321/ex729’s were the daddies, they used to get absolutely covered in cracks and still work fine.

I’d totally keep riding that (having first bent it back roughly in to shape).

If it was me, I’d try straightening it and inflate a tyre to maximum pressure with an innertube (while standing out of the way of potential shrapnel). Leave it overnight and if it doesn’t explode, then try fitting a tubeless tyre – a ghetto conversion with a split innertube should work.

Thats fcuked, like totally. By all means bend it back (aluminium is well know for loving that) and ride it.

Yeah there’s stock issues here and there, but waiting for a rim is a bit cheaper and far less hassle free than having your face put back together cos you’re a cheapskate

I’d slacken off all the spokes in readiness for a rapid rim swap.

For me it not the “crack” that is the problem, as you say it’s join of the rim.
More worrying for me is the pattern just showing at the base of the bend and comming throuh the paint. Looks like classic aluminium fatigue cracks forming there.
It might be ok more probably not though.

I’d bend it back and then confine it to turbo trainer duties.
As somoeone suggested above have a word with DT about a goodwill gesture, crash replacement or whatever, no harm in asking

If new, I’d be asking what the warranty can do, especially as failure appears to be at the join.
After all, that’s the benefit of paying a premium for new. At the very least you’d like to think they would meet you halfway on the shop rebuilding it.

Thanks for the input – I’m not sure I’d ever be 100% confident in the rim even if a repair did work short term, and I’ve already got a mouthful of manmade teeth after being hit by a car a few years ago, so it’ll be getting replaced.

If new, I’d be asking what the warranty can do, especially as failure appears to be at the join.

I’d imagine it would be along the lines of here’s a tire pressure chart.

After all you wouldn’t crash your car and expect the warrenty to pick up the tab would you ?

This is in essence crash damage.

If i was 12 miles away from the car, I’d bend it back a bit, then ride it to the car before i binned it.
As you’re already home, order a replacement, then try to straighten it before you bin it.
You might get one more ride out of it, but it’s scrap. A ding is one thing, but that’s too far gone.

@trail_rat I was kind of making the assumption that all was set up as normal by the OP and they weren’t trying to run xc race tyres at 8psi dropping into a rock garden.

Worth an ask and some manufacturers gradually see a pattern of failure in some products. Spent a good chunk of the 90’s in my Saturday job swapping Scott Octane frames with ovalised headtubes.

Yes but rim ground contact doesn’t happen unless the tire in-between isn’t doing its job.

Try the tire manufacturer for comments perhaps ?

Doesn’t normally result in rims splitting though, just an inability to continue running tubeless and rims that look like they were drawn on a spirograph.

If it wasn’t split on the joint, wouldn’t be suggesting asking about the warranty options.