Thin/ low profile saddles

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  • Thin/ low profile saddles
  • Premier Icon kayak23
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    Sdg circuit.
    Built for comfort it isn’t.
    But it’s good looking and low profile.

    Premier Icon nixie
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    Hmm the green on that circuit is a very close match for my frame :D.

    Premier Icon kimbers
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    dirty native one was quite low profile, but yeah bit sore after a good day out!

    Premier Icon molgrips
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    Comfort is mostly down to shape, not padding. I’ve got a Spesh Toupe on the road bike, that’s the only road saddle that didn’t give me numb balls.

    Just dug out an old Flite SLR from the spares bin to put on the new XC bike I built up, and it’s not bad if I wear reasonable shorts. Biggest problem is that the hull is a bit too concave so it puts a bit of pressure between my sit bones instead of on them. So I have it a touch nose down and it’s ok, no numb balls..

    Premier Icon nixie
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    Currently got a charge spoon but think I need to loose a bit of height to get a longer dropper post onto the bike. What low profile saddles are there? Charge knife and fabric scoop look pretty thin. Any others to consider. Going on a 150mm travel full sus so out and out comfort not as important.

    I’m sure this has come up before but I failed to find anything of any use via the site search.

    foureyes
    Member

    Got any room in your pedals? Some pretty thin ones these days like the boomslangs which could help too

    Premier Icon nixie
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    Would thin pedals not make it worse? Surely need thicker ones? The longest distance is saddle to pedal at low point so a thicker pedal would reduce this.

    I’m hoping I can do it all in the saddle and having the post slammed (got about 10mm on current frame to play with). Also looking at seats clamps that don’t have a lip (gets a couple of mm). If not swapping to slightly shorter cranks could help (175mm currently though at 6’2″ these are a good length for me).

    Premier Icon nixie
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    I can see I’m going to be trying one of each of the saddles above next to each other!

    samuelr
    Member

    Burgtec the cloud is thin and decent. Steel, carbon o ti rails.

    Pro Turnix a slim and light and can often be found cheap on ebay cos no one’s ever heard of them.

    Shorter cranks or chopping a bit off the top of your seat tube would be a better idea I reckon.

    Premier Icon nixie
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    Chopping the seat tube is the last resort. It’s got plenty of spare material that projects above the brace and is steel, just hesitant to get the saw out.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cosine-Race-Saddle-Carbon-Rails-/201988414776?hash=item2f07729d38:g:63EAAOSwJq1ZajOh

    I’d just cut it down, done it on several frames (steel) and never had a problem. No one wants long seat tubes these days!

    Premier Icon nixie
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    Didn’t realise you could get carbon rails now!

    What did you do about the slot, extend it?

    What did you do about the slot, extend it?

    Took a file to it IIRC

    Premier Icon Del
    Subscriber

    Sdg circuit.
    Built for comfort it isn’t to break you in half.
    But it’s good looking and low profile.

    FIFY. i got one off a mate to use on my ss.
    crikey i thought, this thing sure is firm. ah, it’ll be alright after a few uses, especially as i don’t sit down that much on a SS HT.

    fast forward 6 weeks and i have a charge spoon. three weeks of using that and i’m still feeling tender bits where that f’ing thing was having a go at me, though it is improving.

    Premier Icon nixie
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    Hmm that does not sound promising! I’m hoping the large amount of rear wheel travel will compensate to an extent.

    Premier Icon chakaping
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    Had this issue myself on my newest bike – a secondhand purchase.

    Had a local framebuilder chop the seat tube by about 13mm and awaiting a 165mm chainset to replace my 175mm cranks.

    Worked a charm so far anyway.

    Premier Icon treklee
    Subscriber

    To all that we with set circuits, I’m happy to swap some charge spoon/madison flux for them…

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