Viewing 40 posts - 1,081 through 1,120 (of 1,124 total)
  • The new Aluminium Scandal 29er from on one / planet x
  • Premier Icon mtbcowboy
    Free Member

    @brant ‘Why would you want to run a 150? Just daft.’ I was asking if this works or if anyone had tried it.
    I guess 130 or 140mm would be fine but was wondering what is the maximum fork size they recommend using with the frame. After looking again at the website it states under frame spec:
    Fork 120-130mm

    Premier Icon paulneenan76
    Free Member

    There is no maximum, fill ya boots. Will it upset the geo that Brant designed the bike around, yes. Will it ride rubbish, most likely.

    130/140 fork and get the bike it was designed to be. If you want bigger travel you picked the wrong frame. This is my first 29’er and if anything it’s more versatile than the C456 it replaced.

    Premier Icon cloggy
    Full Member

    Not that simple. The longer the fork the greater the leverage on the head tube. At some point beyond it’s design parameters it will break.

    Premier Icon whyter
    Full Member

    Anyone had a problem with the mech hanger on the Scandal? I am using an SLX clutch mech and just noticed that my second hanger has now got a chip out of it where the mech pin contacts the hanger tp stop it pulling too far forward. The SLX mech’s pin is about half the width of the hanger, and this portion of it gets broken off – and royally screws up the shifting.

    I am loathe to pay another £25 for a hanger just for it to break again – that’s two in two years now!

    (edit: I bodged it with a wee zip tie around the bit that’s snapped off, but that will shear through eventually I guess)

    Premier Icon nickc
    Full Member

    Has anyone tried to get the Panaracer Firesport to go tubeless?

    Premier Icon andydunne12
    Free Member

    Not me nickc. I swapped to Nobby Nics and went tubeless them
    Having issues?

    Premier Icon snotrag
    Full Member

    Hows everyone getting on with their Scandal? Almost a year in now, I rode it absolutely non-stop during Spring/Summer 2020 when the sun shone and I didnt have any work. Or income. Or events that I’d entered actually being run. Still…

    It now hasnt been touched for months in lieu of a Gravel Bike for local stuff. I considered selling it a while back but I reckon It owuld be pretty foolish to do so – theres no doubt I’d be hardtail curious again quickly after and then I’d be scuppered, theres nothing as good value ( or even, available!) for the money given I paid about £300 for the frame and fork brand new!

    Its been robbed of various bits and bobs too, I think I’m going to resurerect it a little and get it up and running for some long XC type riding.

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
    Full Member

    Hows everyone getting on with their Scandal?

    Likewise, didn’t ride it much last year as while I can ride to Swinley it’s not quite local enough to be fun doing it and I still think driving to go somewhere fun is outside the spirit of the rules for exercise. So rode the gravel bike instead.

    Got back into it after the last work project finished and still loving it.

    The 35s bedded in nicely, although I can’t get full travel, too progressive at the very end. But that’s probably just the nature of a long travel form that’s been spaced down. I’ll have a tinker when they’re due a full service.

    I’ve got 3 chains on rotation so the drivechain still looks new. Might be a placebo but I think the shimano chain actually shifts better 🤷‍♂️. One thing I have noticed is chunks missing from the GX cassette teeth. I guess that just a result of the forces involved with a huge casssette, they don’t seem to affect it.

    Fulcrum wheels, the rear has more drag than I’d like while coasting, without a clutched mech I think it would actually throw the chain off, but they’re still straight and the bearings are surviving so they’ll probably do another year or two.

    Other than that, bars were swapped for wide knuckleballs, stem for a shorter el-guapo, grips for suoercaz silicone, brake rotors for Shimano ice tech 203/180 (plus adapters and some shims). Canyon/Brand-x dropper, sells Italia saddle. I promised myself this was a bike for riding not upgrading and so far I’ve mostly stuck to that, the expensive bits like wheels/forks/drivechain have all great for the budget, or just plain great.

    Premier Icon mtbqwerty
    Free Member

    Still loving mine.

    Cracked out some longer rides last summer (even did double Dalby on it), then became my go to bike over winter, and did everything great and practically faultless, especially when I treated it to a grippier front tyre and longer dropper. All set up as a not-light but half decent trail bike.

    Currently getting gravel curious, so may get a lighter wheel set & tyres to scratch the itch…not sure how much scratching it would provide, but worth a go.

    Bought mine frame only

    Premier Icon Clink
    Full Member

    Just done first ride (Exmoor) on frame-only build from their eBay shop. Not sure why I’d need to spend more tbh. It did everything well, climbs, descents. Moved parts across, so carbon wheels, SLX/XT drivetrain and brakes, 35mm SIDS. I worried slack ha would be an issue, but if anything it climbed better than previous bikes. 5’10” on a large, 35mm stem, felt spot-on.

    Premier Icon mikertroid
    Free Member

    Very pleased with mine.

    Put some Hutchinson Griffus tyres on mine last week and did a superb ride in FoD earlier today.

    Really impressed with its capabilities, not as harsh a ride as my old 905 and gets lots of admiring comments-more than any previous bike.

    Won’t replace much until I start breaking things, maybe upgrade wheels at some point.

    Premier Icon jonba
    Free Member

    The only downside is that the spec is a little budget based on what’s currently available. It still rides well though. I would much rather have had shimano kit, rev forks, better wheels and finishing kit. But looking across most brands they all have the same limitations.

    Premier Icon richmtb
    Full Member

    Just bought one of the “Slightly marked” frames from the Planet X ebay store.

    What size headset cups do in need.

    It looks like ZS56-40 for the bottom and ZS44 for the top?

    Ta

    Premier Icon Clink
    Full Member

    Frame Material 6061-T6
    Frame Weight, Approx, (med) (g) 2kg
    Fork 120-130mm
    RR Axle (mm) 148 BOOST M12 x 1.75, 12mm thread, 169mm
    Seatpost Size (mm) 30.9
    Seat Clamp Size (mm) 34.9
    Front Mech Type NA
    Wheels 29er
    Max Tyre 29 x 2.6″
    Mudguard mounts NA
    Rack Mounts NA
    Bottle Cage Bosses 1x
    Brake Type DISC POST
    Bottom Bracket BSA 73mm
    Headset Type Selcof Zero Stack : Tapered / IS44/28.6 IS56/40
    Fork Length (mm) 530

    Premier Icon richmtb
    Full Member

    Cheers

    Still confused though

    Zero Stack should be ZS and the IS size for a bottom cup is normally 52 not 56.

    Headset Type Selcof Zero Stack : Tapered / IS44/28.6 IS56/40

    Premier Icon richmtb
    Full Member

    Shiny new frame arrived 🙂

    I’ve got a choice of 140mm or 120mm for the fork in the bits I have lying around. Is anyone running theirs with a 140mm fork?

    Premier Icon intheborders
    Free Member

    A 140mm X-Fusion in mine, but the RS35 that came with was actually set to 140mm rather than the advertised 130mm.

    Rides ace.

    Premier Icon duckman
    Full Member

    Rhythm 34 140mm on mine, work just fine.

    Premier Icon richmtb
    Full Member

    Nice one guys!

    Premier Icon tomcrow99
    Full Member

    Depends what you want to do with it. I’ve predominantly had a 120mm Fox 32 on mine which keeps it light and fast but with a limit to how hard you can ride the rougher stuff. However I popped a 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm with big tyres on it last summer for a bit and it was awesome, was able to keep up with mates on much bigger bikes. It felt like the “right” fork for the frame but alas, the 34 was destined for a Sonder Evol build so the 32 went back on, still great but has lost a little capability for sure.

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
    Full Member

    Zero Stack should be ZS and the IS size for a bottom cup is normally 52 not 56.

    52mm is integrated (no cup, IS52)
    56mm is zero stack (cup inside frame, ZS56).

    You need the ZS56 version.

    Premier Icon richmtb
    Full Member

    Here’s mine built up now.

    Only took it for a quick spin to check the brakes and gears but sizing fees spot on. Medium frame built up with 140mm fork, 35mm stem and 740mm bars – I’m 5’7″ / 170cm.

    Looking forward to taking it for a proper ride tomorrow

    Premier Icon jonba
    Free Member

    Having some trouble with my rear wheel. I think it’s a formula hub.

    Bearings completely shot, making a horrible racket. Have contacted planet X but wondering if anyone has replaced the bearings and has info. Can’t find instructions so would be good to know bearing sizes and how it all comes apart.

    Bit disappointing in a few months riding so hopefully I’ll get something from planet X. Always a problem when buying full builds, corners cut where I wouldn’t.

    Premier Icon damascus
    Free Member

    Bit disappointing in a few months riding so hopefully I’ll get something from planet X. Always a problem when buying full builds, corners cut where I wouldn’t.

    What did you pay for a full build? £999?

    Corners are not being cut, it’s just a budget build. When we build a frame up to our standards they never come in on budget!

    Perhaps just time to upgrade the wheels?

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
    Full Member

    Depends on which Formula hub it is, I’ve had some on Cannondale Bikes and they’ve been utterly awful (at a much higher price point than the On-One), and another set that gave Hope a run for their money with their spin forever-ness and loud clicky precision. IIRC the hubs came apart with a cone spanner to remove the axle ends from the threaded axle like Shimano, but inside there were cartridge bearings. If it is that style then fixing it is completely intuitive (and they lasted a lot longer with better bearings).

    That said I’ve also got a set of budget DT Swiss hubs with cup and cone bearings which are just as bad. So it’s not just formula guilty of sticking their branding on cheap crap. Why is it that Shimano and Campagnolo are the only companies capable of making half-decent cup and cone hubs?

    I’d badger Planet-X and not take no for an answer. I’m all for their business model when it works, but it’s a PITA when it doesn’t. For example, the San Marco saddle is really quite light and comfy and had a high RRP, they obviously just bought a container load of surplus stock for peanuts and thus that week/month/years bike gets that saddle till they run out. Repeat for a lot of the bike. They should still put it right if they’ve spec’d rubbish though.

    Premier Icon richmtb
    Full Member

    I’ve got to say I’m really impressed with it.

    Not really ridden a hardtail for a while. Tried a few over the years and never really go on with them.

    The geometry is spot on and the frame strikes a good balance between being snappy enough without kicking your teeth in when you ride through rougher stuff.

    Not sure I would spend £800 on the full price frame though

    Premier Icon jonba
    Free Member

    Yes I’m badgering them. Don’t want to send things back to them though. I’ve changed to different tubeless tyres, saddle, dropper post so the bike isn’t what I bought. Sold some of the other bits too.

    I’m away at the minute so have taken a guess on the hub spec and ordered some bearings. Hopefully when I get it home and apart I’ll have the right ones. I’m assuming that it will work the way as other cartridge hubs. Unthread the ends and then pull apart, drift out the bearings etc.

    I have a passionate hatred of cup and cone, so you lost me there.

    Hopefully I can do a simple bearing swap and I’ll buy some SSC Element wheels when they come back in stock.

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
    Full Member

    I have a passionate hatred of cup and cone, so you lost me there.

    Sorry, I meant that the cheapest formuala hubs are cup and cone.

    Premier Icon pierhead
    Free Member

    I just got an xl ebay frame and am looking for build parts. I’m almost chickening out since stuff seems scarce and I have nothing to hand except a spare saddle!

    Anyone know what fork steerer length I need – I’ve seem one but is 183mm enough? The geometry table says 135mm headtube? I was looking at a Superstar headset but am unsure how much stack that leaves for the stem.

    Premier Icon damascus
    Free Member

    @pierhead I’d suggest you need a longer steerer until you’ve ridden it and decided you don’t need as many stacks.

    Did it come with a headset? If not I bought a Selcof headset with my frame for £12 and after I covered it in grease and cleaned it a few times it’s done really well. The spec for what you need is on the scandal frame page on px website.

    Start by putting up some wanted ads on the stw classified pages or buy a donor bike and sell what you don’t need.

    Mines built up with 10 speed and its just as good as my summer bike with more expensive kit on. You don’t need to go mad on it!

    I’m also running mine rigid with 2.6 inch tyres on.

    Premier Icon pierhead
    Free Member

    Thanks, yes I think I really need a longer steerer but there’s not much about. No headset yet but I was looking at the Superstar one as the Planet x selcof one is £60.

    I havent much clue about what transmission I need either but cheap 10 speed would do. A donor bike is maybe a good idea for wheels, brakes, transmission, etc and sell frame and forks. I’ll keep looking.

    I have other bikes so there’s no rush to build but I’m itching to get offroad more this summer. It’ll be my first mtb since I bought a Saracen Conquest in the 80s!

    Premier Icon richmtb
    Full Member

    There seems to be a typo on the headset spec given on the Planet X website

    Headset Type Selcof Zero Stack : Tapered / IS44/28.6 IS56/40

    its actually Tapered / ZS44/28.6 ZS56/40 which is a really common headset standard for tapered head tubes.

    I bought a Nukeproof Neutron headset from CRC for about £30

    I’d say you need a longer steerer than 183mm. It will probably just fit but with no spacers, so not much way to tune the bar position.

    Premier Icon pierhead
    Free Member

    Thanks Rich. Too bad because the fork I’m watching seems perfect otherwise (except for the price it’ll probably go for!). I guess I probably need to looking for a 200mm steerer so I have a bit of leeway. Not much on ebay, and even new 130mm travel forks seem thin on the ground.

    Premier Icon duckman
    Full Member

    Sell your frame and buy my complete large, issues with parts done in a flash. I was using it as a foot of the hill/ bikepacking bike.But a broken ankle and recently arrived tempest mean that any issues with getting bits will be LONG done before I am planning on using it again.

    Premier Icon pierhead
    Free Member

    Maybe, though I’d have to sell the large I think – 6’4″ 36″ legs? Wonder if the forks off a large would fit an xl? I’ll send you a message.

    Premier Icon paulneenan76
    Free Member

    Finally picked a BrandX dropper for mine and will attempt to fit it myself. Anyone got any tips or how to links they used?

    Premier Icon jonba
    Free Member

    Sorted. Planet X are sending me some new bearings but the rear hub uses 6903 so I had a couple of Enduro ones in my spares. Not sure why!?

    For reference you can easily remove the non drive axle nuts. Tap out the axle along with the freehub. Bash out the bearings and press in. Probably took me an hour going very carefully. Now I know the hub, probably a 10minute job.

    It was the non drive that had gone. Probably due to lack of sealing on bearing (branded Xero). Drive side is better protected but replaced anyway as it was a bit rough. Hopefully get a year plus of smooth riding now.

    Premier Icon jonba
    Free Member

    Dropper post was pretty simple. It has to go into a port that’s already used. I think the brake. I took the brake off at the bars to give slack.

    Cable goes from post out of seat tube back into down tube then out at head tube.

    It’s a bit fiddly but not too hard. I have some thin plastic tubing that I used as a guide initially.

    Premier Icon intheborders
    Free Member

    Anyone else work out that there’s no drain hole under the BB…?

    I rarely wash a bike unless it’s severely filthy, but did on Sunday as it (and me) were covered in cow & sheep s**t. The cranks took a load of freeing when I pulled it out for a lunch spin.

    Anyone drilled it yet, if you did, any pics?

    Premier Icon mcbyker
    Full Member

    Yes, I drilled a 2.5mm hole in between the cable guides just last week (sorry no photo). I got 350km out of my first bottom bracket before it seized. When I took it out a load of water came out (well, OK, maybe 5 ml)…and that’s after it hadn’t been ridden for 2 weeks, so I think a drain hole should help.

    Complements to PX who built it: the whole BB inside was absolutely thick with grease; they couldn’t have put any more in! Just a shame that wasn’t enough to protect the bearings.

    Not sure where water is getting in…down the cables? I have applied silicone sealant around the seat post, not sure that would work around the cable ports though.

Viewing 40 posts - 1,081 through 1,120 (of 1,124 total)

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