The Let’s See Your 29er Hardtails/ Rigids Thread

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  • The Let’s See Your 29er Hardtails/ Rigids Thread
  • Premier Icon rOcKeTdOg
    Subscriber

    are those bars upside down?

    Superfli – yeah I noticed how heavy the stock wheels are – especially the rear – when I tubelessified it. It’s a right lump.

    andykirk
    Member

    the00 – Your Solaris max with a rigid fork pictured on page 1. I assume the rigid fork lowers the front end a bit? I read Cotic recommend 120mm suspension minimum. Reason for asking is that I have a Solaris Max that I am thinking about putting a 100mm suspension fork on. Is the reduced BB height ok? Any other comments on the ride?

    Premier Icon slackman99
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    akkwlsk

    Assume that’s a Puffin? Looks good as 29+. Are the Aion’s 29+ or just have a particularly girthy arch?

    akkwlsk
    Member

    Yes, Puffin mk1. This is the new Aion35 29 boost version. It’s not speced as 29+, but takes 29×3.0 Minion on 45mm id rim with ~1cm of clearance:
    minion in aion

    Premier Icon slackman99
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    Thanks, been on the look out for a Puffin for ages. Like hens teeth!

    wind-bag
    Member

    I think this qualifies?


    fair number cube

    Sonder frontier, XL frame. Really fun!

    ian83
    Member

    This is my Pinnacle Ramin I picked up for a good price.

    Well I would post a picture if I could work out how to.

    dpfr
    Member

    Whyte 29CS in the snow

    Singlespeed Sherpa
    Singlespeed Sherpa

    Premier Icon StefMcDef
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    are those bars upside down?

    Ragley Carnegies – swept back bendy bars. I find them a bit more comfortable. The decals on them are the right way up so I’m assuming they are too.

    PJay
    Member

    Thanks, been on the look out for a Puffin for ages. Like hens teeth!

    Puffins are still available from Singular’s German distributors (I bought my Swift from them without issue in November 2017) with 25% off. If might be worth talking to Franz first though as they currently appear to be listed at 0€ (as are the forks 😯 ).

    Muke
    Member

    Karate monkey

    Krampus

    andykirk
    Member

    Ooooo that Karate Monkey looks nice.

    Premier Icon Normal Man
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    Agreed, the KM looks super cool.

    Premier Icon mick_r
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    Enough mainstream. Time for some junk made in the shed.
    E-stay 2011. Now my work commuter with mudguards and slicks, alfine etc.

    Tight

    Bifurcated chainstay 2012. Pensioned off last year with a small downtube crack.

    rOcKeTdOg where did you get that undertube bag?

    jonm81
    Member

    Mick_r, How did you bend the seat tube?

    I’m just about to build a new 29er frame and was going to bend the seat tube but not worked out the best way to do it yet. Initial thought was to make a giant tube bender out of hardwood and fill the tube with leftover fine grit from the shotblaster to provide extra support and stop the tube creasing/collapsing.

    Premier Icon timoth27
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    Dose this count!

    Dartmoor primal+

    It’s currently on 27.5+ but will take 29 as well.

    Premier Icon mick_r
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    jonm – pretty much what you describe. Apologies to others about digressing into framebuild geekery….

    Big block of birch plywood laminated together. Each piece of plywood was cut to a slightly different radius so I had a “steppy” cross section of the tube profile once glued together. Then used holesaw and bits of my tube notcher – all clamped to a bedplate at work to machine out the steppy bit into a final 28.6mm tube cross section.

    Aluminium slipper block, also with 28.6 diameter. Steel side plates and old washing machine ballraces rolling on top of slipper. Actually needs more leverage than the photo shows (another 1m of steel bar).

    Tube is filled with sand. originally kiln dried, but latest batch is my homebrew foundry sand (sand plus bentonite clay). Some cat litter is 100% bentonite clay. Combine with a £10 blender. You can see where this is going….. Blender is now slightly poorly 🙂

    Sand held in with 28mm plumbing compression fittings, bored out to 28.6mm. Compression olive just split with a hacksaw to fit on bigger pipe.

    Still has a few fine ripples on the back of the tube but generally usable. Not sure if the foundry sand gave any better results for the extra effort.

    jonm81
    Member

    Thanks Mick. That is exactly what I was thinking about. Glad to know it works.

    To keep this slightly on topic with only a minor hijack here is the first 29er I built 9 years ago

    And here is the crack I found in the chainstay this afternoon. 🙁

    I have a spare chainstay so given this was originally TIGed when cutting out and replacing the chainstay would you TIG or fillet braze the replacement stay?

    Premier Icon mick_r
    Subscriber

    The crack is in the old chainstay not the dropout so TIG will probably work OK. The only tricky bit is you are welding on top of previously welded parent metal (brazing is probably more tolerant of that). I’ve read people on MTBR frame forum saying brazing isn’t good on that type of dropout due to the lack of contact area with small tube diameters but not found it a particular problem myself. I guess any good repair will last until you make a new frame anyway.

    Columbus now lists a Zona 29er seat tube with a 10 degree bend if that is any use.
    http://www.columbustubi.com/pdf/Columbus-Tubi-2018-Catalogue-V3.pdf

    I don’t like the current fad for steep seat tubes – prefer something around 72 deg effective STA. My bent tube starts vertical at the bb and heads to the saddle at 66 deg (so 24 deg bend).

    PVD makes bigger diameter tubes with a tight bend. His usual blurb is below but I pretty much disagree with all of it for my application 🙂 (rarely run a dropper and as a lightweight I actively want the flex from a 27.2 post and slack angle).

    The right way to build and spec bent seat tubes

    I think Waltworks makes something in between and Walt is a nice guy.

    I’ll happily bend you a tube if you don’t want to tool up. Message me if you want to compare notes sometime. My new 29er should be in the “last thing you made” thread in a few (?) weeks.

    Premier Icon kimbers
    Subscriber

    My Kona Unit

    It has a hard life- winter bike mostly, for a good 5 years, but Manitou Tower forks are still great and simple to service, £100 superstar wheelset has had 1 freehub & bearings in that time and still true. Gravity dropper is nearly 10 years old, but starting to wear, Hope Mono M4s even older

    Premier Icon Rik
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    Mick_r – do you build just for yourself/fun or do you sell your frames/forks?

    Premier Icon weeksy
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    2017-11-11_08-40-13

    29 Parkwood

    Premier Icon mick_r
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    Rik – just build for family and the odd friend. Irrationally nervous about things breaking if building for others……

    Not actually made a fork yet – those are Singular Hummingbird. Again irrational fear of smashed face 🙂

    jonm81
    Member

    Thanks for the information Mick. I may well take you up on the offer to bend a tube. I’ll let this thread get back on topic and pm you about framebuilding.

    will
    Member

    The trusty XTC 29er. Built this up around 9 years ago now, keep thinking I should replace it, but it’s perfect for what I need:

    jabbi
    Member

    NS Eccentric Cromo
    NS Eccentric 29" Cromo 2017

    Premier Icon timoth27
    Subscriber

    Jabbi your cromo with the tan walls looks awesome.

    zinaru
    Member

    View post on imgur.com

    almost 8 years in and still besotted by the jones. recently trying out wide straight bars after forever on jones loops. wow!

    Premier Icon big_scot_nanny
    Subscriber

    Loving the variety in builds, and I guess then in intended uses as well. Awesome.

    Agree the cromo looks lovely, as does that silver machine with the nicer forks (is it a Charge? or related to your username genesiscore?) – also, why such a huge stake of spacers, nicely colour coded though they are? Is it for giving some flexibility if you use forks with different A-C?

Viewing 40 posts - 81 through 120 (of 149 total)

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