- The Let’s See Your 29er Hardtails/ Rigids Thread
the00 – Your Solaris max with a rigid fork pictured on page 1. I assume the rigid fork lowers the front end a bit? I read Cotic recommend 120mm suspension minimum. Reason for asking is that I have a Solaris Max that I am thinking about putting a 100mm suspension fork on. Is the reduced BB height ok? Any other comments on the ride?Posted 1 month agoPJayMember
Thanks, been on the look out for a Puffin for ages. Like hens teeth!
Puffins are still available from Singular’s German distributors (I bought my Swift from them without issue in November 2017) with 25% off. If might be worth talking to Franz first though as they currently appear to be listed at 0€ (as are the forks 😯 ).Posted 1 month ago
Mick_r, How did you bend the seat tube?
I’m just about to build a new 29er frame and was going to bend the seat tube but not worked out the best way to do it yet. Initial thought was to make a giant tube bender out of hardwood and fill the tube with leftover fine grit from the shotblaster to provide extra support and stop the tube creasing/collapsing.Posted 1 month ago
jonm – pretty much what you describe. Apologies to others about digressing into framebuild geekery….
Big block of birch plywood laminated together. Each piece of plywood was cut to a slightly different radius so I had a “steppy” cross section of the tube profile once glued together. Then used holesaw and bits of my tube notcher – all clamped to a bedplate at work to machine out the steppy bit into a final 28.6mm tube cross section.
Aluminium slipper block, also with 28.6 diameter. Steel side plates and old washing machine ballraces rolling on top of slipper. Actually needs more leverage than the photo shows (another 1m of steel bar).
Tube is filled with sand. originally kiln dried, but latest batch is my homebrew foundry sand (sand plus bentonite clay). Some cat litter is 100% bentonite clay. Combine with a £10 blender. You can see where this is going….. Blender is now slightly poorly 🙂
Sand held in with 28mm plumbing compression fittings, bored out to 28.6mm. Compression olive just split with a hacksaw to fit on bigger pipe.
Still has a few fine ripples on the back of the tube but generally usable. Not sure if the foundry sand gave any better results for the extra effort.Posted 1 month ago
Thanks Mick. That is exactly what I was thinking about. Glad to know it works.
To keep this slightly on topic with only a minor hijack here is the first 29er I built 9 years ago
And here is the crack I found in the chainstay this afternoon. 🙁
I have a spare chainstay so given this was originally TIGed when cutting out and replacing the chainstay would you TIG or fillet braze the replacement stay?Posted 1 month ago
The crack is in the old chainstay not the dropout so TIG will probably work OK. The only tricky bit is you are welding on top of previously welded parent metal (brazing is probably more tolerant of that). I’ve read people on MTBR frame forum saying brazing isn’t good on that type of dropout due to the lack of contact area with small tube diameters but not found it a particular problem myself. I guess any good repair will last until you make a new frame anyway.
Columbus now lists a Zona 29er seat tube with a 10 degree bend if that is any use.
I don’t like the current fad for steep seat tubes – prefer something around 72 deg effective STA. My bent tube starts vertical at the bb and heads to the saddle at 66 deg (so 24 deg bend).
PVD makes bigger diameter tubes with a tight bend. His usual blurb is below but I pretty much disagree with all of it for my application 🙂 (rarely run a dropper and as a lightweight I actively want the flex from a 27.2 post and slack angle).
I think Waltworks makes something in between and Walt is a nice guy.
I’ll happily bend you a tube if you don’t want to tool up. Message me if you want to compare notes sometime. My new 29er should be in the “last thing you made” thread in a few (?) weeks.Posted 1 month agokimbersSubscriber
My Kona Unit
It has a hard life- winter bike mostly, for a good 5 years, but Manitou Tower forks are still great and simple to service, £100 superstar wheelset has had 1 freehub & bearings in that time and still true. Gravity dropper is nearly 10 years old, but starting to wear, Hope Mono M4s even older
Posted 1 month agotuboflardSubscriber
The bike I usually reach for first.Posted 1 month ago
Loving the variety in builds, and I guess then in intended uses as well. Awesome.
Agree the cromo looks lovely, as does that silver machine with the nicer forks (is it a Charge? or related to your username genesiscore?) – also, why such a huge stake of spacers, nicely colour coded though they are? Is it for giving some flexibility if you use forks with different A-C?Posted 1 month ago
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