How much is it? Long MOT?

£1500 and MOT till October, but the seller reckons he’s happy to put it through a fresh one.

Hopefully I’ll get the job I can cycle to, but if not…

I hear those springs are dead easy to change SK

Absolute doddle. With an impact driver, ratchet straps and a healthy disregard for any notion of safety. Sadly I was all out of those things that day.

Bought a top of the range Saab 9-5 3l turbo diesel estate as a bike carrier from some dude in a car park for a grand. Replaced the fuel pump and some other major part for about another grand, and it’s been running brilliantly for last 4 years. An absolute beast of a car, so comfy. I struggle to understand why you’d pay 40 k for the equivilent car new when all that is going to happen is that itll get covered in oil, mud, and dog hair.

Trail rat and squirrelking stop letting everyone know how good Citroens are, I like buying them cheaper because everyone think they are French crap (1 ZX, 3 C5s, a Saxo, and a relay self built campervan)

OH has a ’54 Fiesta which is a bit more ropey. Although apart from the heater fan not working except on 4

That’s usually just a heater blower resistor, which is a cheap fix. Look on Euro Car Parts or GSF.

Nostrils, I had a Peugeot Expert with that engine in. Bloke used to be in here, (chrisdiesel, he was probably a graphic designer or something 😜) said to change the oil and filter more often than the interval and it would be great. I did it every 8,000 miles from about 55 to 120k miles, it never missed a beat. Had the sump off and cleaned the pickup pipe filter as a precaution when I first got it and ran a pot of engine flush through with every service. Make sure to use the low ash tyoe oil which is the what the proper PSA specification needs. I understand that Ford didn’t spec that for their engines which exacerbated the problems.

E46, I’ve two, both over 200k, both completely original. Free motoring!

I traded a few hundred cash and the wonky Jazz in for a Civic. Only had it a year odd and it’s needed brake pads and a tyre.

It’s reliable, ok on fuel and drives nice.

redfive

Member

That’s usually just a heater blower resistor, which is a cheap fix. Look on Euro Car Parts or GSF.

Aye, I got £100 off my focus because of that, cost about a tenner to fix

Falkirk-Mark don’t worry, judging by the amount of scrappers on Facebook the reputation is safe for now. (mostly can-van models with leaky scuttles blowing up timing belts, self destructing auto boxes or total electrical failure when the BSI shorts out)

Berlingo Woe 🙁

Driving back from town this morning, loss of power, coolant temp rising rapidly and the smell of burning oil. Open the bonnet to find oil leaking from the turbo where it meets the pipe.

Bugger, Haynes manual suggests the turbo oil seals have failed, which means that a new turbo is required. Will probably just get shot of the car to be honest.

bad luck. Just get a refurbished turbo. cannot be that expensive.

If anyone’s on the lookout for a bangernomics car I’m selling my stw inspired Mondeo estate. Bought it off here on the classifieds. Had 4 new tyres, discs and pads and new cat back exhaust. 6 months MOT left. I’ve serviced with decent oil and used genuine ford filters. Will entertain sensible offers cause I need to get it off the drive now after I bought an Octavia Estate

If the seals are gone you probably don’t even need a whole refurb turbo, you can most likely just put a new core in it. Which sounds complicated but is basically just lego. Looks like most of the cores (chra) for berlingos can be had for around £60 for a chinese copy, plus a gasket set.

I’ve no idea what the fitting and removing’s like on that car though.

Did I read it’s already had a turbo in its history ?

If not it sounds to me like it was probably known to be on its way out and they were advised to punt it……it’s incredibly unlucky for a turbo to just shit the bed so soon they normally show signs for a period first.

Car is on its second turbo apparently. Berlingo was intermittently losing power all week on my commute. After a bit of reading about the variable intake sticking I filled up with £50 of diesel and stuck in a bottle of Wynne’s turbo cleaner in an attempt to cure the problem, maybe it made it worse, I don’t know.

Can someone explain why a failing/failed turbo can cause the engine to run so much hotter please? Is it to do with the exhaust gases not being cooled by the intercooler?

Turbo failed due to oil starvation. If it’s the oil pick up the. Potential for oil starvation to rest of engine . No lube = hot hot heat.

This is why I’m suspicious of 1.6s that have already had a turbo replaced.

Thanks, that makes sense.

Spent the morning pricing up a recon turbo and other bits like oil/filters, feed pipes and oil pick up and it came to £494.10, that is including a decent eurocarparts discount on the oil and filters. That is based on me fitting myself. Still inclined to get shot tbh.

Sorry for a bit of a thread Hijack but my neighbour has a Belingo ‘multi-space’ he wants to sell. 55 plates, 80k miles, looks in very good condition, bought off a dealer for 2k, wants £1500 as he’s decided he can’t drive a manual anymore.

Not sure what engine is in it. What else do I need to check? I really want something to chuck bikes/increasing amount of rubbish from house/garden and bikes into. And I’ll give it to my lad when he passes his test hopefully later this year.

What spec and engine is it.

1500 sounds steep

Four years ago bought the mother-in-law a 2004 Honda Civic 1.6 V-Tec Executive with 100k on it for £1k. Nice spec with leather and a/c + sunroof. Best thing about it was it had been owned by an accountant, from new, and had a FDSH with every receipt.

Since then, it’s sailed through 3 MOTs with nothing more than a bulb required. It’s also had one pair of front tyres. Last week the starter motor failed and had to be replaced (literally the ONLY thing that’s gone wrong) – I think I’m now in the bad books coz I bought her a duff car……..

For 1500 quid I’d be wanting a 2.0hdi (the one everyone wants) in a desire in a good colour…..not granny rinse blue or puke gold.

What spec and engine is it.

I’ll check tomorrow. It’s a grey one, actually quite a nice colour, but not sure what engine it has. Shall report back.

My shed of a touran is being a dick and spurting out blue smoke at the moment.

Can’t be arsed sorting it so i am going to a garage… Bangernomics fail. Theres enough niggly stuff for me to cobsider cutting my losses if the bill is a biggy.

But on that note… What does vag-com tell you over and above a generic code reader? Will it tell me if sensors aren’t working etc? Basically is it worth it?

@trail_rat – it is the 2.0 HD with 75k on the clock and a full (mostly Indy) service history. Had a quick drive this morning, all seems to work, nothing obviously rattly or smokey. All dials/gauges/switches work.

I’ve a mate who is a mechanic who can have a look at it and give his opinion.

That does change things. A tidy low milage 2.0hdi will fetch 1500 all day long. The engine that keeps on trucking.

Heads up, Halfords have some of their tools on sale.

I’ve been using their gearless range of tools for about a year now when they were last reduced and found them really useful due to their low swing arc. Weird to use due to their lack of noise though!

3/8 ratchet: https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/spanners-wrenches/halfords-gearless-ratchet-3-8
The head on this ratchet is pretty bulky but has proved useful on a number of occasions.

Spanner set: https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/tool-kits/halfords-7-piece-gearless-rachet-spanner-set
Again, pretty bulky heads on these. I also don’t find the open end particularly well fitting but the 10mm has sped up awkward jobs for me considerably.

Not from their advanced range so you don’t benefit from the lifetime guarantee.

bad luck. Just get a refurbished turbo. cannot be that expensive.

Unfortunately if you just throw a new turbo at it, all the bits of swarf and debris that are spat into the engine when the original fails circulate round, damage bearings, block oil galleries and damage the new one in fairly short order. Maybe why this second one has also failed.

IIRC, there’s a quite lengthy, (read expensive) process of flushing, draining and cleaning required after a turbo failure, which isn’t 100% guaranteed to work.

Yea I linked to the process earlier in the thread. The oil for these is relatively expensive, shame that owners just throw in the cheapest grade between long intervals.Just going to take the hit and get rid of the car.

Alex, if you do end up buying the Berlingo, I have a new Haynes manual you can have for the price of p + p

It’s not even that expensive for the oil. It’s just that folk didn’t understand the difference in the early days.

Like wise what was said above about flushing.

Hard luck Nostrils. Hope you next one is more reliable.

@trail_rat: ta. Well will get a second opinion and see where it goes.

@nostrils. If I buy it I’ll take you up on that.

On the subject of vagcom any recommendations / ideas on a Peugeot diagnostic software over a basic ODB2 reader? Worth it? What’s out there, official or even less official?

The official one is called Peugeot Planet. Think I paid £70 for a cable and software off eBay many years ago. Strangely the Citroen version although using the same cable used a different software completely.

I have diagbox for Peugeot/Citroen.

Had. It for years.

It’s done all I’ve asked of it. Because I have a clone interface it was a scutter to get it up and running but now it’s going it’s good.

I have generic OBD2 readers as well. If I get a eml I tend to reach for them first. And 8/10 it will tell me enough to sort the issue…..

There has been a couple of times where diagbox has pin pointed the faulty bit where the generic code reader was floundering.

Once when my horn died of water ingress and the garage tried to fix it for mot by throwing fuses at the engine side fuse box empty slots.

The generic OBD2 reported a maf sensor fault.

Diagbox reported a fuse in what should be an empty slot.

It also let me activate my cruise control and deactivate my Tpms….because me and my wife were both born with eyes and don’t use run flats…..

Thinking of moving into super shed territory, budget is a max of £2000. Preferably NA Petrol with room for two bikes inside. Any suggestions?

Me too. Except my budget just plumetted becasue I bought myself a new Specialized Disc Tarmac on a whim! (It was in the sale, couldn’t help)

Hunting for sheds around £1000, that don’t look too shed like.

BMW Z4M Coupe – bought in October 2010 for £15300 – sold in June 2013 for £18500. No parts, but rear tyres and a service. Considering profit, it literally cost me nothing, not even fuel. I made a profit.

Peugeot 306 HDI – bought in March 2011 for £1050, sold in August 2012 for £1350. Again, nothing bought for it, not even tyres this time.

Mini Cooper S Clubman, bought in August 2012 for £7150, sold in December 2014 for £8500. This one cost me a wheel refurb at £250, a DVD drive at £85 and a service at £130.

Fiat Panda 100HP, bought in July 2012 for £2750, sold in May 2018 for £1700. Probably needed about £1000 worth of parts and tyres in 6 year of ownership.

It doesn’t always have to be bangers to get free/cheap motoring. 🙂

@daffy… ‘old aat yer aaand’… you are Mike Brewer and I claim my £5.00….