I normally run KMC x10 speed gold hollow pin chains, on my 3 bikes, however they don’t seem to last to me, so I’m thinking why not try there DLC range, although twice the price do they last twice as long or more ??.

Talk ta me !.

Kmc x10-93… I can’t see the point in spending more to save a few grams

When you say they don’t last, are they breaking or “stretching”?*

*Chains don’t actually stretch of course, I’m referring to chain wear which means they get longer

I use the X10L gold (not the hollow pin SL variety) on both bikes. Alternating two on the full-sus, three on the hardtail. Clean them in paraffin when they come off. Last for ages!

They’re stretching !,I clean em after every ride ,with kerosene ,dry them them lube them prior to every ride !.. Weights not a major issue,I just want a durable chain,I do like the gold kmc like but issit me ?.

What sort of life does one supposed to have ?.

I’ve always used kmc x10 SL gold too.
I fancy the DLC ones just because you can get them in black and get away from “bling” gold but keep the quality
£50 is a big ask for a chain though.

I clean em after every ride ,with kerosene ,dry them them lube them prior to every ride !..

Not sure this is helping. Maybe try not doing it. Just keep it lived.

Kerosene & chain lube dosn’t soften metal & make it stretch now does it ??.. Plus you can’t over maintain anything can Ya ?.

So Leavin it wet & caked in shit uncleaned & unlubed makes it last longer ?,well I never !..

If you’re doing a full deep clean you need to be sure that you’re giving it an equally good relube- lubricant needs to get right inside, into the rollers. So that could be contributing unless you’re doing a really good job of it. (I clean mine this way but I use a melt-in lube so it gets everywhere)

Better to buy cheap and replace often imo rather than trying to spend more to make it last longer. IME a cheap chain with lots of metal in it like an X10-93 is tougher to boot.

They’re stretching !,I clean em after every ride ,with kerosene ,dry them them lube them prior to every ride !.. Weights not a major issue,I just want a durable chain,I do like the gold kmc like but issit me ?.

Do not do this.

The lube has to get between the pins and the rollers. That is where the wear is and what causes the “stretch”. Most people just dribble lube into the chain whilst spinning the pedals round the the lube will never get to where it’s needed. If you are really fussy about appearance then just get some kerosene on a rag and hold it on the outside of the chain whilst spinning the pedals. This will clean the outside whilst leaving the lube inside the rollers.

If you must completely degrease it after every ride then soak the chain in lube before refitting it and wipe off the excess before you ride.

What you are doing will kill any chain regardless of make.

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html

So Leavin it wet & caked in shit uncleaned & unlubed makes it last longer ?,well I never !..

Broadly, yes. Some kerosene on a rag to wipe the chain down is probably a good idea though.

Yep. Wipe the dirt off the outside and lube it. Don’t wash all the lube out from the centre and potentially flush dirt in as soaking it kerosene then leaving it to dry will do.

Wipperman chain test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGjcD8xEu8o

Ultimate Bike Solution
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jt5D5SsqBc4

From my experience I would say the best chains are whipperman – the stainless steel ones – as these are durable and strong.

That being said, they are essentially a consumable, so I don’t pony-up for the more expensive ones.

I go for two SRAM cross-step chains in rotation:

https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/sram-powerchain-991-cross-step

These are proper strong. Having two in rotation improves the durability of the cassette and chain-rings as they don’t wear-in to each other.

In terms of care, I take them off, dump in white-spirits, wash and dry. Then lots Rock’n’roll extreme.

Works well on the whole. I think it is best to view chains as consumables, like bearings, or [to a lesser degree] tyres. That way you are less invested in them when you inevitably have to bin them.

I’ve not tried the two (or three) chains in rotation method, usually gone for one of the two standard strategies:

1. Let the whole drivetrain wear to the point of no return and replace it all.
2. Change the chain at regular intervals then two or three chains later replace what’s required (usually the whole lot!)

They’re consumables. Cleaning is: get the crud off the whole drive train; wipe the chain down with a rag; apply oil sparingly to the inside of the chain on each roller; wipe away excess.

From my experience I would say the best chains are whipperman – the stainless steel ones – as these are durable and strong.

Oh god, worst chain I’ve ever used. I bought a couple as a treat thinking they’d be good for winter use. After snapping one regularly I checked and about 50% of the links had micro fractures ready to break the chain.

I got (literally) good mileage out of swapping two chains on my commuter bike.

I only buy the cheapest KMC ones for the MTB. In Pennine grit paste I found going even a step or two up from that gave me a chain that constantly broke. Swapped back to a cheaper one and it’s been reliable all through the winter.