Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 66 total)
  • Talk to me about 1 x 11 speed please!
  • scandalous
    Free Member

    After a near race ending mechanical on last weekends adventure race I am thinking of going down the 1 x 11 route as a way of reducing possible scenarios which would lead to a DNF.

    My usual gearing is 24 or 26 / 36 or 38T at the front and 11 – 32 or 34 at the back.

    Would I be able to get close to that range with 1 x 11?

    Would I need a new hub or would my current CK one be able to cope with an 11 speed cassette?

    Thank you!

    The-Swedish-Chef
    Free Member

    Would I be able to get close to that range with 1 x 11?

    As near as damn it, yes, assuming SRAM 10-42

    Yes to a new hub for SRAM 11sp, no to Shimano’s when it comes out, although theirs is 11-40 I think, so a slight loss at either end regarding gear ratios.

    Can CK hubs be converted to 11sp? maybe

    jimjam
    Free Member

    Why not 1×10 with an 11-36 on the rear. That way you won’t have to dispose of a perfectly good wheel/hub.

    scandalous
    Free Member

    what size at the front to give the required range??

    I am no god at working stuff like this out!

    The-Swedish-Chef
    Free Member

    Why not 1×10 with an 11-36 on the rear

    For normal riding this is fine as I’ve been running it all year, however there are times in races where I miss the extremes that 10-42 gives, especially where there is a tarmac master start for example and the pace is through the roof to be the first to the singletrack.

    The-Swedish-Chef
    Free Member

    32 for climbing, 34 for the fast stuff to equal what you’ve got. Get both and simply change them depending on the course, no need to change the chain length. Simple solution.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/

    moshimonster
    Free Member

    Would I be able to get close to that range with 1 x 11?

    The maths is simple eg.

    Low gear comparison:-
    24/34 = 0.706
    30/42 = 0.714 (fractionally higher but v. close. Doubt you would notice the difference)

    High gear comparison
    38/11 = 3.454
    30/10 = 3.000 (so a little bit lower, but only an issue if you need the higher gears)

    Alternatively you could go 32 on the front, but then you give a bit away on the low gearing.

    Lazymike
    Free Member

    The gear calculator website is good once you suss out how to use it. Link here. YOu can use the compare option to compare what you have now with what 1 x 11 would give. You can use the presets for chainrings and cogs in the drop down menus but can just drag the cogs/chainrings about to customise. For a single chainring just select one of the pre-configured combinations and drag the ring(s) you don’t want over to the left so you only have one left then drag it to wherever you want (34, 36, 36 etc).

    Hope that makes sense. Its relatively easy to use once you work out the basics I described above.

    xcstu
    Free Member

    Oh interested on peoples opinions too.. Just acquired a new bike with 1×11 with xx1 and x01 drivetrain.. Was a little concerned it wouldn’t give me the range I’ve been used to with my old triple 9 speed!?

    I believe on a lot of frames you can’t go any larger than a 32t on the front?! Seems that way on my Niner!

    Not taken out so only time will tell 🙂

    aP
    Free Member

    I have a 32 front on my niner, its pretty good – it worked fine at 24/12 and at Oktoberfest – the only limitation being my fitness. Its been very reliable, the one thing I’ve found is the multiple shifting required when going from a steep climb to flat section – but then you’d do that with a twin/triple front set-up.

    njee20
    Free Member

    I believe on a lot of frames you can’t go any larger than a 32t on the front?! Seems that way on my Niner!

    Bear in mind that’s a 29er where gearing is about 10% ‘higher’ than on 26″ wheels – so more like a 36t on 26″ wheels, should be more than enough for most.

    I’m a big fan of 1×11. I liked 1×10, but I do find myself using the extremes far less, and it is noticeable, at both ends that you’ve got a significantly wider range. I’d say you’d need to be pretty strong with 1×10, whilst I think 1×11 is fine for a much wider range of riders/riding.

    jamj1974
    Full Member

    OP. I went through the same thought process as you and I found I could get the same range but obviously lost a couple of ratios. It works well for me on winch & plummet style rides but less for traditional and flattish XC where double/triple options work best for me.

    chestrockwell
    Full Member

    I demo’d a bike with 1×11 last weekend and came to the conclusion it had no where near the range I use/want/prefer/etc for the riding I do.

    njee20
    Free Member

    It works well for me on winch & plummet style rides but less for traditional and flattish XC where double/triple options work best for me.

    See I’ve taken mine on road group rides and sat at >20mph for miles not even in the 10t. I find it spot on for XC riding.

    moshimonster
    Free Member

    I demo’d a bike with 1×11 last weekend and came to the conclusion it had no where near the range I use/want/prefer/etc for the riding I do.

    High or low end or both? What sort of riding?
    Interested as I’m about to go 1×11 and most worried about the low range

    chestrockwell
    Full Member

    The ride was just around a test loop. Not too taxing but a good spread of terrain. 1×11 was just about enough for that but I was looking for gears that were not there. I like to do all kinds of riding and for any distance rides across the Dales I would need more top and bottom end.

    cruzcampo
    Free Member

    Great link above! Heres my comparison of my current triple 9 speed, to a 1×11,

    http://www.gear-calculator.com/#KB=32&RZ=10,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32,36,42&GR=DERS&KB2=22,32,44&RZ2=11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32&GT2=DERS&UF2=2120&TF=85&UF=2120&SL=2

    So am I losing two road stomping speed gears, and the granny would be a little harder uphill?

    jamj1974
    Full Member

    See I’ve taken mine on road group rides and sat at >20mph for miles not even in the 10t. I find it spot on for XC riding.

    That’s because you are a lot fitter than me.

    jamj1974
    Full Member

    ^^ I know this from your other posts!

    cruzcampo
    Free Member

    I find for any sort of flat road work, or downhill road work, i’m always in 44/9, i’m sure i’d miss this with 32/10 max gear

    chestrockwell
    Full Member

    Same here. Although I am usually in middle front + use all out back I do often go to both extremes of my 3/10 system. Think I could get away with 2x but defo not 1x.

    honourablegeorge
    Full Member

    cruzcampo – Member
    I find for any sort of flat road work, or downhill road work, i’m always in 44/9, i’m sure i’d miss this with 32/10 max gear

    Guessing you mean 44-11 – you won’t have a 9t cog unless you have a SRAM 11 speed cassette back there

    So you could get the same with 1×11 using a 36t ring up front with the 9t at the back

    cruzcampo
    Free Member

    ah I did mean 11 😀

    So with a 36t single up front whats the biggest cassette range I could have on the back?

    njee20
    Free Member

    That’s because you are a lot fitter than me.

    Not what I meant to imply! Was assuming that by saying you preferred a double or triple though that you felt you needed more top end?

    honourablegeorge
    Full Member

    cruzcampo – Member
    I find for any sort of flat road work, or downhill road work, i’m always in 44/9, i’m sure i’d miss this with 32/10 max gear

    XX1, X01 or X1 would give you 9-42. It’s a compromise, vertainly, but a good one for most folks.

    mikewsmith
    Free Member


    Handy comparison

    moshimonster
    Free Member

    mike – useful table that. I’m starting my 1×11 setup with a 30T chainring and still a bit concerned that the lowest gear won’t be low enough for the steepest tech climbs. Especially as I’m also going from 26 to 29 inch wheels so the overall gearing will be higher. I reckon I might need a 28T chainring to have something close to what I’m used to. Or better still get fitter!

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    the ex started with a 34 on 29, she did fine… now on 32. Try it and see, a 30t will be between 32 and 36 on the back on a 24 a crawler gear 🙂

    njee20
    Free Member

    XX1, X01 or X1 would give you 9-42. It’s a compromise, vertainly, but a good one for most folks.

    10-42, no 9t. Capreo has a 9t, but is a few years old and for road bikes only, a few prototype things have had 9s too.

    I find a 32t fine (on a 29er), if I was changing I’d probably go to 30t rather than 34t.

    Ladders
    Free Member

    Do many XC racers use single chainrings?

    Just gone 32×36 on my 26’er and its fine for everything but the steepest stuff. Just wondering if I’d run out of gears for racing though?

    UK-FLATLANDER
    Full Member

    There is now a freehub for SRAM 11 speed on CK hubs

    njee20
    Free Member

    Do many XC racers use single chainrings?

    Just gone 32×36 on my 26’er and its fine for everything but the steepest stuff. Just wondering if I’d run out of gears for racing though?

    Yes, most have been doing so for a few years. I ran a 36t 1×10 on 26″ wheels, and only twice did I have issues at the bottom end in 4 years use (Margam and Mayhem last year, both in the wet). How strong are you?!

    moshimonster
    Free Member

    the ex started with a 34 on 29, she did fine… now on 32. Try it and see, a 30t will be between 32 and 36 on the back on a 24 a crawler gear

    Yeah I think it will be okay most of the time. But I’m probably close to worst case scenario for gearing i.e. 90 kg + 6″ travel “enduro” bike + v. steep tech climbs + sit and spin style + average fitness. I was running a 22T granny ring on my old 26″ bike. At least the new bike is about 5 lb lighter and once I get back to my fighting weight of around 84 kg I will probably be okay. May also encourage me to try climbing out of the saddle more often. I’m lazy if the gearing allows 😉

    njee20
    Free Member

    No inherent advantage to climbing out of the saddle, just tires you out more, I’d certainly not want to do it through necessity. I’d definitely try it first, there’s no cheap solution if you find the gearing lacking.

    Ladders
    Free Member

    Yes, most have been doing so for a few years. I ran a 36t 1×10 on 26″ wheels, and only twice did I have issues at the bottom end in 4 years use (Margam and Mayhem last year, both in the wet). How strong are you?!

    Strong, but not light being over six foot!

    stoney
    Free Member

    I had a very low gear on the old HT, 20/34….. 😛 which worked out (according to Sheldon Browns scale) was a 15.5″ gear, which was ace for getting me up the steep stuff we have round here

    So, when i first thought of going full suss with 1×11 i purposely stopped using the 34 and used the 30 sprocket giving a 17.6″ gear.

    Now, i like to pedal up stuff if i can and opted for the 28 front ring as this gives me a little less than i had before @ 17.3 taking into account that i now have 650b wheels as well.

    Basiclly, if you have reasonable hills and can climb then the 30t front will do, that way you will still have a nive top gear on the 10 sproket. If you have steep hills (like us) then the 28t.

    BTW, even with the 28t front, i can still pedal just fine on road with the 10 sproket….

    Hope my little contribution helps! 😛

    njee20
    Free Member

    Strong, but not light being over six foot!

    Sounds like an excuse, plenty of light guys over 6 foot 😉

    No else can tell you if it’ll work, I found it fine myself, but you know how strong a climber you are. 1×11 is noticeably wider, I’ve never wanted more gears.

    cruzcampo
    Free Member

    moshimonster – Member
    But I’m probably close to worst case scenario for gearing i.e. 90 kg + 6″ travel “enduro” bike + v. steep tech climbs + sit and spin style + average fitness. I was running a 22T granny ring on my old 26″ bike. At least the new bike is about 5 lb lighter and once I get back to my fighting weight of around 84 kg I will probably be okay. May also encourage me to try climbing out of the saddle more often. I’m lazy if the gearing allows

    I’m exactly the same weight, travel, and never stand and stomp up hills, like to sit and cadence up, taking the gear easier and easier as it gets steeper/fatigue sets in.

    cruzcampo
    Free Member

    stoney – Member
    I had a very low gear on the old HT, 20/34….. which worked out (according to Sheldon Browns scale) was a 15.5″ gear, which was ace for getting me up the steep stuff we have round here

    So, when i first thought of going full suss with 1×11 i purposely stopped using the 34 and used the 30 sprocket giving a 17.6″ gear.

    Now, i like to pedal up stuff if i can and opted for the 28 front ring as this gives me a little less than i had before @ 17.3 taking into account that i now have 650b wheels as well.

    Basiclly, if you have reasonable hills and can climb then the 30t front will do, that way you will still have a nive top gear on the 10 sproket. If you have steep hills (like us) then the 28t.

    BTW, even with the 28t front, i can still pedal just fine on road with the 10 sproket….

    Hope my little contribution helps!

    This 1×11 is sounding more interesting than 1×10, thats for sure!

    What sort of cost can your setup be done for?

    I was tempted by the Shimano offer on CRC with 1×10 for around £120 ish.

    jamj1974
    Full Member

    njee20 – Member
    That’s because you are a lot fitter than me.
    Not what I meant to imply! Was assuming that by saying you preferred a double or triple though that you felt you needed more top end?

    I didn’t think you were implying. I however, know that you are likely to be fitter than me! Until bust shoulder was only getting out about once a week …

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 66 total)

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