Hello !

So i’m looking for some fork advice. I have been trawling through various websites, looking at sus forks, but now my head is swelling and I have not been organized enough to make some kind of comparison chart. I figured that some of you here will have been through the same process and can offer some assistance 🙂

so. what do I need. Well I just ordered myself a cotic soul. i know the travel range is 100-140. but I am looking to stay in the lower end of this. For me 100-120 would be fine. I do mostly alp riding, so as much up as I do down (distance) if we talk time in the saddle im obviously taking more time to go up. I am not a cable car only dude. I like the climbs.

My riding style varies and i like to do long treks as well as technical descents as well as the odd blast down the mountain.

Im not sure if an adjustable fork exists which can be changed from 100 to 120 travel? this would be cool for me, even if its something i have to do in the garage. On the fly travel change could also be goo, but so far i didnt find one. Im looking for reasonably low weight, so an air shck would be preferable and also remote lockout from handlebars. The budget is about 400 smackers.

So far I didnt really think about, whether I should go for a tapered fork? not sure whet ther benefits are and also QR vs maxle, so I could really do with some input as to what pros and cons are between the two.

So I appreciate all the help you guys can give, maybe if you could also suggest some models to look at It would be great.

Cheers

Chief

You can get Recons and Rebas that can be taken apart and a spacer inserted/removed to give you either 100 or 120. Bit under your budget too.

Just make sure you get the right one, which has the spacer – mine didn’t

Fox talas?
Can get them for around 400 in deals, or some second hand ones will be well within budget and as long as they have been serviced they’ll be fine.

try Flat Out Cycles. they have some tempting deals on used forks…
Fox Float 140 EVO RL

the theory is that tapered steerers should steer better and be able to handle the abuse without the bulk of a 1.5 steerer. also having a larger bearing on the lower race spreads the load and stress placed on the fork by the frame and rider weight.
however, you can get adapters to convert to 1 1/8th

as for qr and maxle, qr’s are easy to use but dont offer the axle stiffness of through axles. i run 20mm bolt through axles on my bikes and there is a world of difference over a qr set up..
the fork steers better and the fork feels a stiffer and can handle anything i can throw at it…
the downside is that it welghs more than a qr set up and can be a right pain to remove the front wheel…
the maxle type set up is essentially a 15mm version of what i use with the added bonus that its bolt free and comes with its own qr so wheel removal is as easy as a conventional qr but you get similar benefits of a 20mm axle..

rockshox Pike u-turn can be had for bargain prices if you look carefully in the classified…you can adjust the travel between 95-140mm
Rockshox Pike

…whether I should go for a tapered fork? not sure whet ther benefits are and also QR vs maxle…

A tapered steerer makes a noticeable difference to backwards-and-forwards twanginess and a thru axle helps to reduce twisting of the fork legs

However…

…based on my experience with 2 x RS Revs there is still sideways flex in the chassis – light forks are light for a reason. Light but stiff forks are like unicorns.

Personally I would not buy a QR fork

Also worth a good look are the xfusion velvets mates have got some and there very nice for the money.
I’ve got a set of the bigger vengeance and am very pleased with them very smooth and supple action good control through put the stroke and I believe there £400/£450 dependent on model etc.