Stovetop brew kit – Massive Brewery
Think that’s more suited to an advanced brewer myself – someone looking to experiment with styles and refine their technique, and doesn’t necessarily want to brew 5 gallon batches each time whilst doing so.
Homebrewing has v good economies of scale / effort. It’s not going to take much more time or effort to brew 25 L as it would to brew 10 L.Posted 4 years agoMrSynthpopMember
That looks spot on – I’m currently using a very similar 10ltr system I built myself and the results are really good – I may be making a purchase as his chiller is far nicer than my homemade one.
I don’t do more than 10l as most of my homebrew is high ABV experiments, 10ltrs is great for trying stuff outPosted 4 years ago
I can thoroughly recommend brewing your own beer from grain & hops rather than from kits – modern kits have come on a long way since the likes of John Bull & Geordie – but for me there’s still a twang that says “home brew kit”.
All Grain doesn’t do that, if you drink an all grain beer that has been brewed in someone’s kitchen, it can taste as good as, if not better than, anything you can buy in a pub or in a bottle.
looking at his kit, it looks like a Brew In a Bag setup, which works perfectly well for me, so much so that I’ve never bothered with a mash tun & sparging the grain for my 19-23 litre batches
loads more info about brewing all grain and BIAB on http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.ukPosted 4 years ago
I bought that boiler you linked up on the last thread John, thks for the recommendation. Made a hop stopper, a wort chiller and got me ma to sew a viole bag – Did my first complete BIAB last week. Can’t comment on the quality of the ale yet, but the equipment and process worked flawlessly.
Only thing I’m missing is a good balance. Had to use a very rudimentary set of kitchen scales which were terrible for weighing anything less than 100g.Posted 4 years agobokononMember
Completely agree with John_Drummer above – I’ve had my beers tasted by the like of Oz Clarke (the less said about his review of my wine the better) and he said that home brewers can easily give the big boys a run for their money if this is what they are brewing – if you love beer, brewing it yourself is an excellent way to get exactly what you like.Posted 4 years ago
glad to help Garry; you can pick up a set of digital scales for about a tenner at Argos & the like, which will weigh down to the nearest gram. I think some even go down to .1 of a gram.
I use a software package called BrewMate to help me with my recipes, it’s free from http://www.brewmate.net & there are a load of recipes on the website too.
I have an American IPA and a Porter conditioning in bottles at the moment and I did a BIAB demo at my LHBS on Sunday, which is now fermenting away. An American Amber Ale, 21L at 1057 OG.
I now need to find a nice “session” beer as these American ales are just way too strong. Taste great thoughPosted 4 years agofreddygMember
Just sent the link to MrsG in the hope she’ll take the subtle hint….
As usual, lunch-time browsing of my beloved timethievingtrackworld.com can be dangerous…
If you’re stuck for an idea for Christmas, this would be great (Hint: do not buy me anything else!): http://www.massivebrewery.com/index.html
MrGPosted 4 years ago
I like the idea of calling your wife ‘MrsG’, especially during special time. Like you’re being ever so naughty.
This evening’s line of questioning:
Freddyg: MrsG, Have you been spending “special time” with Samuri?
Freddyg: And did you let him call you by your “Special” name?
MrsG: <blushes again> <faint hint of a smile> <misty, far away look in her eyes>
Freddyg: Curses! <runs off to the pub>Posted 4 years ago
ale yeast doesn’t mind temperatures above 16. it’s when it gets into the high 20s that you can start getting some odd flavours e.g. banana
lager yeast prefers it a bit cooler (10-15), so unless you invest in a brew fridge, you might struggle to brew lager according to the traditional wisdom on the subject.
but having said that, one of the guys at my LHBS brews lager at around 18 & says he never has a problem
this kit is the “what” – for the “how”, watch these videos:
followed by:Posted 4 years ago
CF, got a few q’s brewing (hah!) which I’ll fire over to him later.Posted 4 years ago
He could be onto a winner; as someone said above,it’s as easy to brew 25l as it is to brew 10, but I haven’t got room for all that stuff (the weight of 25l of wort would probably break my cooker), plus I don’t really want to drink 40 bottles of the same thing.allthepiesMember
I brew 50L batches and the “brewday” takes about 5 hrs including cleaning up. I guess with this little beastie then you’ll be able to knock a couple of hours off that time.
Make sure you have an understanding partner though as you’ll be boiling wort (the stuff which becomes beer) for 60-90 mins with hops added. So…..steam and aroma (which is lovely IMO but is a very “marmite” thing) will be present in your kitchen/stove area 🙂Posted 4 years agoteacakeMember
When is the copper chiller used? Is it after the wort has been boiled? I guess this is to get it down to room temp quicker to avoid any nasties beginning to grow in the wort?
If so, would you syphon from the hot wort mix, through the chiller (which is sitting in another bucket of cold water) and out into your fermentation bucket?
Very interested in this!Posted 4 years ago
After the boil is finished, yes. Yeast needs to be pitched at or around ambient temperature, so the received wisdom is the quicker you cool the wort down the better.
No siphoning though – it’s just a heat exchanger that you run cold water from the tap through. You dump the chiller in you boil with 15 mins to go. Heat off, wort is then cooled (takes around 30 mins give or take for 5 gallons) and you can transfer it into the fermenter. Yeast in, brew day done.
It’s not absolutely essential to chill the wort – I believe ‘no chill’ methods are popular in places like Australia where water might be more expensive – I think you can just cap the wort and let it cool down of its own accord. Takes hours though.Posted 4 years ago
you’ll be wanting some recipes next…Posted 4 years ago
First brew has just been transferred to the fermentation bucket 🙂
A few observations (as a completely new brewer):
Steve is massively helpful with any queries and responds very quickly by email, no matter how silly the question 😳
Even just 6.5l of water takes a long time to heat up on an electric hob – if you’ve got a combi boiler if might be worth filling the kettle up with that.
My main problem was trying to get the wort back up to boil. It was taking forever (although my stove is useless). I ended up spreading the pot over 2 of the halogen heat thingies and floating a camp kettle inside to reduce the surface area of the boil. This worked and I was able to maintain a rolling boil.
Can’t wait to taste it now! Patience was never my strong point though….Posted 4 years agobokononMember
as Graham Wheeler puts it in his book (or close enough) – when boiling wort there is no need for control, there is only one speed needed and it is full throttle.
If you think it takes a long time with 6.5 litres – try 30, I despair every time I burn out a kettle element mid brew (always mid-brew) and have to run my boiler with just one – adds another hour to the whole operation I’m sure.Posted 4 years agoallthepiesMember
I do 50L batches and my boiler has two 3kW immersion elements in it 🙂
If you’re using one of these hob setups on an induction hob then consider insulating the outside of the pot using camping mat or similar (obviously don’t do this with a gas hob 😉 ) Should speed up the bringing to boil time and also help with your rolling boil.Posted 4 years ago
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