I came back to riding after a 10 year break. I was still commuting during this time but just ran a 1 step up from BSO. During that time I surfed. Proper drop everything, life revolved around it, type of thing. I’d watch the forecasts and weather and satellite images, plan my work around when swells would hit. I neglected the family for it and it put a huge strain on my marriage. I just got to the point where other things were more important.
I came back to biking because it simply cost less. The miles I was putting in for an hours surf was just too much. It’s much more instant, I can be ready to roll in 15 minutes, and the gratification is similar. Much friendlier bunch MTBers too. I don’t ride as often as I’d like, but I can get a fix out of cleaning or maintaining my bikes without the impact that the surfing did. There is only so many times you can re-wax a board.
I cut my quiver of boards down to one and that hasn’t been wet for 3 years. My boys enjoy bodyboarding when on holiday or the day trips to the beach, I’ll go in and play about body surfing. I do miss it occasionally, especially if the perfect day hits whilst we are away and I’ve no board. TBH the perfect days could be counted on one hand in over 10 years of surfing.