I am awful at aligning my stem to be straight with the tyre…

With that off my chest, does anyone know of any gizmos/tools for this? I’m sure I saw some laser based tool I think launched few years ago but using google search doesn’t bring anything up, does anyone know of anything for the job?

It’s much easier to align the bars with the fork crown than the stem with the tyre.

That or take the front wheel out, undo the stem and balance the bike with the front of the fork dropouts and the bars on the floor (you might need to remove/move stuff attached to the bar)

Failing that, IIRC it was Tune that made the laser alignment thingy

https://bikerumor.com/2014/05/27/tune-spurtreu-perfectly-aligns-handlebars-to-your-front-wheel-with-lasers/

Length of straight wood across the fork legs or stanchions and line the bars up to that.

Make sure it’s level so rest it on the tops of the lowers or up to the bottom of crown and velcro or releasable ties to hold it there.

I have real trouble with this as well – I will use Ks idea next time

back edge of the handlebars, against the front of the fork dropouts

I try to line the front of the stem plate up with the back of the fork brace.

Close one eye and align the bars with the crown. Then check by closing the other eye.

Close one eye and align the bars with the crown. Then check by closing the other eye.

I tried this but then I couldn’t see anything at all!? 😜

But, yeah, as above.. stick something straight across the fork tubes and then look down on it over the bars from a riding position.

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Olly
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back edge of the handlebars, against the front of the fork dropouts

similar but front of the crown rather than dropouts for me

I get it bang-on by eye at home. Then go for a ride and stop and get it bang-on again within 500m. After that I stop thinking about it.

jordyboy

Close one eye and align the bars with the crown. Then check by closing the other eye.

I tried that but as soon as I closed the second eye it was super hard to see

I line up with crown by eye but I’m going home to check it with a plank of wood as per K’s post.

I get it bang-on by eye at home. Then go for a ride and stop and get it bang-on again within 500m. After that I stop thinking about it.

This works every time if you are willing to persist at it.

someone needs to 3d print a little ‘bar cradle’ that you hold against the bar (either side of the stem) with a bit in the middle (en jer neering term) to rest a little laser pen in.

WCA??

DrP

If you can’t tell, does it matter?

Always found that just standing looking down on the stem, and then finding a suitable reference on the fork- usually the edge of the seals- and eyeballing the bars against that is pretty straightforward tbh.

someone needs to 3d print a little ‘bar cradle’ that you hold against the bar (either side of the stem) with a bit in the middle (en jer neering term) to rest a little laser pen in.

Bin dun.

Both my bikes had the stems on the piss according to my mate. But I genuinely couldn’t tell.

If it looks straight and you can’t feel it does it matter?

Bars vs fork crown! So much easier!

Bin dun.

70 quid or so. Thats the real issue, more blatant ripping off of cyclists.
We’ve long been able to buy these lasers as an add on for pillar drills, and saws, and even today they’re only about £25.
Asking 70 is 60 profit.

I wouldn’t buy one at that on general principle.

Asa above – don’t align the stem, align the bar. Front edges of the bar with the front edges of the fork dropouts, they’re usually parallel and flat. Use a ruler as an edge on the bar if needed. Easy that way.

However you do it does not matter, once you have ridden it for a few mins your brain corrects for any minor diff and all is good.
I have never ever seen a straight bike. It really doesn’t matter.

The laser tools don’t really work to well. Wouldn’t waste your money.

Is everyone assuming all bars are made pin point accurate and precise, I’ve found some bars a few mm’s lower on one side so god knows about the rest of the bar.
A straight edge or spirit level against the lowers has been my method for years, I thought I invented that, oh well.😃

If you can’t tell, does it matter?

I often cannot see it but I can feel it. Its funny ‘cos most bike set up stuff I am not very sensitive to but bars a mm out – really uncomfy.

Are your arms exactly the same length? We need to know this too

Good point, guessing arms are 1 or more millimetres out, hands could be slightly out when in grip position, upper body may not be perfectly straight etc,. But then you can’t see any of that when riding.

You’re overthinking it, just ride your bike around the garden/down the street after setting it straight – put an allen key in your pocket.

If it feels/looks off, adjust it until right – often easier to not fully tighten so you can ‘knock/twist’ the bars straight. Then just undo, pre-load and tighten.

bars / fork brace

line up

tighten up

ride

I don’t know who people who make stems/ forks don’t put a little spot/ line on the centre like they often do with bars. Same with multi section fish8ng rods. Does my head in sometimes…

I’ve always just eyeballed it, never had a problem, same with the saddle.

I did buy a cheap laser level from amazon for some DIY a few weeks back. As long as the bike is vertical that could be used to draw a vertical line up from the wheel to the centre of the stem. If you’re that way inclined.

Turn your wheel so that your valve is towards the ground and behind the forks.
Take a tape measure and hang it off the end of the valve.
Measure to a point on the end of your bars(there’ll be a degree of guesstimating)
Measure to the same spot on the other end of the bar.
Adjust until the same (more or less)

Having said that, I’ve never actually done that. I just eye the front edge of the bar off the fronts of the fork legs and get on with it, but I imagine that would work, much like measuring a rectangular area for squareness…

Bin dun.

Hmmmm, looks useful/practical, it also looks like a laser pointer of some sort is circa ~£10 off that there interwebz.

So 10 minutes with a pillar drill or a 3D printer would achieve similar results without the £70 spend…

I think I’ve got another little activity for this weekend then…. Cheers

I often cannot see it but I can feel it

I’m very picky, but I can ride for ages with a slightly wonky stem and it doesn’t affect the riding at all. But as soon as I see it, I just can’t continue.

I might see if I can 3d print something with cheapo lasers that would sort it.

Same as above. Get it perfect in the garage, check, double check and check again, torque up bolts and go for a ride.

Stop half a mile in and adjust with multitool.