Stans rims, tubeless, Is a Compressor **really** the only way??
Belugabob – it’s a cuprinol (sp?) fence sprayer, I just unscrewed the head – the bit with the spray nozzle in. The hole at the end of the lance is a tight fit on the valve at first but you can run a small screwdriver down it to tease it out. Literally just pop this onto the valve (with valve core removed)….pump up the pressure vessel, and when you ready, pull the lever on the lance and watch your tyre pop up.
Seriously – for £12 it’s a very useful tool! Pumps tyres up and you can use to wash your bike after a ride (keep mine in the car sometimes).
Until I discovered this, I too struggled with tubeless and dont have the pennies or space for a compressor.Posted 5 years agospooky_b329Member
Replace the rim strip with yellow tape.
Mount your new tyres using tubes for a few hours. This will press the yellow tape down and more importantly, straighten out the beads in your tyres that presumably came folded up. The folds will stop the bead from sitting evenly.
Buy a new pump, those specialized ones with a triangle base are both sturdy and stay upright when you let go of them 🙂Posted 5 years agopedalheadSubscriber
OP, don’t beat yourself up, I’ve had similar issues. All my problems went away when I started using a combo that worked (Arch / Ralph’s for example), and bought a load of those cheap co2 cartridges online. I also have a cheap compressor but the co2 is better at seating the tyres in my experience. Once it’s seated, I’ll deflate it to purge the co2 (doesn’t play nicely with sealant), then reinflate with a track pump.Posted 5 years agobelugabobMember
Sounds like you got lucky with the nozzle size.
I got my spare garden sprayer out last night (yes, I’ve got a spare – don’t ask) and took the nozzle off.
Pumped it up to max, then pressed the trigger – a small plastic tube that was in the line of fire, shot clean across the room!
Need to modify the nozzle to fit the valve, then I’m good to go.
Thanks for pointing out a solution that was staring me in the face (every time I went in the shed)
🙂Posted 5 years agodeadkennySubscriber
Easy. And you can get 100s of cartridges for the price of a compressor
No you can’t 🙄
Box of 50 £20. £40 for 100 therefore.
Find me a decent compressor for £40 (not ghetto job, not one of those cheap jobs with no reservoir).Posted 5 years agojezanduMember
Getting the yellow rim strip right is the most important part. Don’t wrap twice. Once will do with a two inch over lap. To ensure the tape is in right take stans advice and blow up tyres with an innertube and leave for an hour or more.
Then follow your normal steps as you’ve done. Some very good videos from stans on you tube shows it done right.Posted 5 years agoAlexSubscriber
Jon – I feel some of your pain. Getting fat-ish (2.25/2.35 maxxis) onto Arch EX rims was a bit of a performance. But having had them on and off a few times now, it all good. Rear is a LUST, front is a DHF Evo.
Only thing I can add is
a) if new wheels/tape/tyre lob a tube in overnight to really seat the rim tape
b) double check the valve. Sometimes if there is too much tape near the hole, the bung won’t seal. I remove ALL the tape from the hole to make sure I get a good seal.
9 times of out 10, it’s all fine. 1 out of 10, I have to go outside for a little cry.Posted 5 years agocuriousyellowSubscriber
What helped me was using a tyre lever to fit the tube into the bead as best as possible.
Was struggling with a Crest rim, Schwalbe “Tubeless Ready” tyres and a Topeak Jow Blow Sport last night and this is what sorted it for me. My fingers are now bleeding, but it is tubeless!
Don’t give up.Posted 5 years ago
The topic ‘Stans rims, tubeless, Is a Compressor **really** the only way??’ is closed to new replies.