SRAM GX1 Rear mech
Just a quick one – was doing some fettling earlier and noticed that the top jockey wheel (closest to the cassette) was quite wobbly – a fair amount of side to side play.
Is this normal on SRAM Rear mechs? Am used to shimano and there being basically no play (that I can notice)…
RichPosted 7 months ago
The jockey wheels on GX1 are shit. Catch it early enough and you can eke a lot more life out of them if you’re happy to regrease regularly (and I mean far more regularly than is reasonable).
Leave it too late and your ride will end in a crunch of gears and chain and the bearing will be reduced to what looks like biscuit crumbs (from painful experience).Posted 7 months agochrisdavidsSubscriber
Just yesterday I checked my jockey wheels on a GX rear mech that I’ve removed from a bike I’m flogging. Was surprised that the top one has almost stuck solid and hasn’t freed up despite tlc.
Never considered buying aftermarket jockey wheels before.
Any recommendations?Posted 7 months ago
Have re-greased (as much as I can) popped back in and done up the bolt. Still seems wobbly. Might do a quick video as a demonstration (as soon as Virgin Media sort out the uploading speeds. Currently at 0.02mpbs at the moment. Woo…)
Do the XX1/XO1 etc.. all fit the GX as well?
RichPosted 7 months agodeadkennySubscriber
Yes SRAM top jockeys are floating design to supposedly aid shifting. Don’t worry about the wobble, that’s normal.
SRAM jockeys in general are rubbish though, but more because they wear fast, don’t shed mud well and the bearings seize.
Once dead, replace with CNC’d vented jockeys. Better with ceramic bearings.
Though newer SRAM jockeys do have narrow/wide teeth. I can’t see why it needs it though. When do you loose the chain off a jockey, given the cage holds it in place?Posted 7 months ago
Though newer SRAM jockeys do have narrow/wide teeth. I can’t see why it needs it though. When do you loose the chain off a jockey, given the cage holds it in place?
Aye – wasn’t sure about that either…
Ta for the reassurance – guess it gives me a bit of time to save up… 😯Posted 7 months agosmatkins1Member
I went through this fiasco with my XO1 mech recently. The SRAM jockey wheels would just develop loads of play after a few months. This would result in the shifting not being as crisp and occasionally the chain would jump off and get wedged between the jockey wheel and cage.
I just put in some normal Shimano jockey wheels for a bit as a temporary measure which worked fine. I’ve now put some hope 12t ones in. The bearings are last longer than the SRAM ones, but the noise of metal jockey wheels is a little annoying.Posted 7 months agodeadkennySubscriber
Annoyingly the ones I liked originally then doubled in price. KCNC ceramic bearing jockeys.
I moved to Uberbike ceramic. They were great too. But they’ve stopped selling them and now do their own “made in UK” jockeys but they come with regular bearings. They sell ceramic bearings but adds a lot more cost and have to replace the stock bearings.
They weren’t quite so good seals, but tighten up enough and some grease around the seals and fine. With ceramic (hybrid ceramic really, races are steel), if they do seize, just clean up insides, light oil and they’re good again. SRAM jockeys once seized were utterly dead, no matter how much I tried to clean them up.
On the look out for decent priced but good ones again, though might resort to steel bearings. Main thing really is durability of the teeth and a vented design which sheds mud and much easier to clean.
There are cheap ebay ones but have heard mixed things about them. Generally not positive other than they’re cheap.Posted 7 months agoHob NobMember
I broke one one an XX1 mech.
I found an old Shimano Deore 9spd mech in a box, took a jockey wheel out of that & put it in. That was probably 18 months ago.
Do people actually spend that kind of money on fancy jockey wheels? I’d just use the cheapest one I could find. It works fine.Posted 7 months ago
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