So just got back from France where we rode Metabief Bikepark, was amazing! However my rear brake was sticking on, so decided to look at it and follow Henry’s GMBN guide for tweaking brakes.

Spent best part of two hours cleaning, lubing, cleaning lubing each set of pistons at a time. Went to put it all together and the actual pad retainer bolt housing with the thread….snapped! Brake now useless! Front one’s in bad condition too really as housing that feeds the brake pipe to the caliper also very corroded so from wanting to tweak I’ve ended up needing a full brake set! Not getting SRAM’s again, some form of Shimano 4pot I think!

This is also all after spending a few hours on both our bikes cleaning them too making them mint as not had a wheels out wash in a while with it being summer.
Basically today mostly wasted 🤨

A day playing with bikes and spanners isn’t wasted

Sounds like two small replaceable parts to have them working fine again? Maybe even someone has an old set to salvage (I’m nearly there, but mine won’t die after 7+ years do far).

But If you’re intent on binning them I’ll take them for a pint and postage?

I understand the frustration, but is this a opportunity to stick some Code calipers on it as a cheaper way of sorting it and upgrading ?

If they are not too old you could check warranty ?

I appreciate brakes a tribal thing but some of the other brands have their own issues and the grass is not always greener.

Very true regarding not time wasted, I mean I’ve never really properly fiddled with brakes but I had all the kit so thought I’d try as the shop bled them in Metabief but it didn’t fix the issue. It’s great ti have learned how to do it though.

Not sure they’re small parts, as it’s the housing on the caliper that’s snapped so the bolt has nothing to secure to = flappy pads.

SRAM’s just seem so fiddly to bleed, I have the kit but last time it didn’t go to plan.
In France the Guide RS Levers internals swelled in the sun too, so I still had brakes but an awful lever.

I think the Code caliper idea Mr Binman is a great one to be honest.

I was thinking of selling the bike on maybe in a years time so didn’t want it ending up being a parts bin special (capra Al comp 2017) and have always kept the bike as “original” as poss when things needed replacing.

Also wondering how I stop this happening again?
So I don’t wash the bike too often, the metal around the brakes has obviously become brittle, I got dot fluid on them once but as mentioned in guides washed off with water.

Also after a wash I dry the bike off but not usually bolts. Best to get compressed air can to dry those bolts/areas like brakes out?

Yes as per pic I even put brand new pads and was going to put my new disks on until I noticed the metal on the caliper was missing.

As above Code caliper or I would buy the cheap Guide REs which come with the older Code caliper Can be had for £80ish per end

If you act in the next four hours STAGE20 on Probikekit will get you a pair of REs for £138

Wow thank you, just looking now

No problem. It works as I’ve tried it

SRAM’s just seem so fiddly to bleed, I have the kit but last time it didn’t go to plan.

We are a committed household in the sense that the only brakes we run are Codes, so I’ve had to bleed quite a few sets over the years (stupid internal routing when fitting, etc).

But, they really are easy & simple to bleed. There is a great old MBR video on the YouTube which was for Guides I believe, but I found it & used it a couple of times & it’s just become my bleeding process. It’s really quite simple & works well.

Also wondering how I stop this happening again?

Happened to mine too a while ago (2017 model bike ) but SRAM warrantied them.

Couldn’t work out whether it was due to expansion of the bolt, over tightening, too much loctite it or catching them with a tyre lever when pushing the pistons back in. I suspect they were made too thin and it’s a design / manufacturing fault

I bought some discounted Code RSCs (pre-BREXIT) while they were away to keep riding and then moved the the Guides onto another bike / spares box.

I have some secondhand Code RSs that just keep working maintainance free  while the RSC need bleeding more often.

Code REs look like a good option but if you want to move off SRAM these look ok https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-slx-m7100-front-and-rear-disc-brake-set-179619.html?utm_source=PHG&utm_medium=AffiliateMarketing&utm_campaign=phg-GB&source=PHG&utm_medium=Affiliates&utm_campaign=genieshopping

I have a set of XT 4 pots with finned pads I need to sell if interested. Come off a new bike. Only used a few times.

@chrisyork i have sent you a DM

Ian

Bit OT but since SRAM started with the Bleeding Edge stuff, its super simple, fast and clean.

Yikes I didn’t find it simple, wonder if it’s because I had an epic bleed solutions kit rather than original SRAM.

Thanks SaintSludge, I am going to go Shimano so just weighing up my options but will be in touch if I choose to go down 2nd hand route

Binman, really interesting! I know how I did mine, they’re years old and plastic tyre levers wouldn’t push the pistons back so I used ones that had a metal core in them but plastic on the outside. Honestly once I’d even finished Henry’s trick two back pistons were incredibly lazy to the point of. It coming out without being forced so they’ve clearly had better days!

Those SLX’ look incredible value for money, I wonder if they’d give me the power I need but based on reviews they seem very impressive likely due to the larger 2 pistons I reckon!

New 2 pistons have to be better than poorly/average performing 4pots at the end of the day!

the Code caliper idea is a great one to be honest.

That or swap the pistons out for Code aluminium ones.

Thanks Jim, the issue is the pads can’t be retained in the caliper anymore as the caliper body has broken. Just looking at 2 pot SLX and trying to get to the decision of spending £100 more and getting the 4 pots because I do tend to like modulation and 4 pots seem to give more of that.

I got the two pots last week as I couldn’t get on with the plastic one finger levers on the magura 4 pots.

More than happy with them, seem as good as mt5 for power but less effort to achive it. My view was if I wanted more power could get a 4 pot front for 60 and have a brake et for 200. At the moment not going to bother. I’m pretty heavy on a Levo sl as well.

Mine also came with the finned pads making even more bargainous!

I bet a blob of silicone on that pin would mean that brake was fine.

Just picking up on this, do you think so? I mean that pin is just there to keep the pads in, but…. It’s a fairly important pin! I remember flying down a North Yorkshire moors descent and the face of my gorilla pad just flew off resulting in only one brake to stop! Having the same happen is not an experience I want to repeat and I’ve not bought gorilla since!

Have actually just found set of 4 pot SLX new for about £190.
Has anyone used bikeparts.co.uk before?

Just have to make sure the hose is long enough for the back for a large capra!
Shimano SLX BR-M7120/BL-M7100 SLX 4 pot brake lever/post mount calliper, front right

Hey folks! Well I got the SLX. Hoses will need chopping but wonder if you can advise.
So it looks like I need new mount adapters as changing from Guides to these. There seems to be so many different types and shapes too… What on earth do I need?

Is a Shimano 180 adapter enough for the front/back? Or does it have to be specific to a 2017 capra? I really don’t know… confuses me there are so many different types!

My dropper remote has fitted nicely with the current mount but looks like I’ll need one of the ISpec EV converters to run the SRAM shifter so fine with that….

It’s just the caliper mount/s I’m stuck with…

Just as a bump, decided I’d use my existing thread rather than creating a ne one? Can anyone advise the caliper mount question?
Thank you

The caliper mount will be decided by your disc size, if you’re using the same size rotors you won’t have to change anything.

Thank you yes sticking to 180’s, does “post mount” just mean a mount? Some ads for the part say front only but can’t seem to find ones for “back” as such. Seems like I might just need to wing it! One thing I know is I need longer screws!

As @happybiker noted, you shouldn’t need to change the mounts if you haven’t changed the discs.

It one of these stop for a brew and think it through moments. If you use screws that are too long or too short you can cause damage.

What do you think the problem is ?

Oh really? I thought maybe Shimano/Stam had different caliper designs! Well there’s nothing wrong with my mounts, so if switching between a SRAM and Shimano caliper doesn’t mean I need to change the mounts? It seemed that one bolt wasn’t screwing down straight and the bolts that came with the calipers are too short and the existing ones are too long!

Thank you so much, it looks like I need to have another go!

It’s been a while since I switched brakes, but the Shimano bolts being too short makes sense as if I remember correctly they were only long enough to be used without mounts.

The existing bolts should work, but worth double checking they haven’t been mixed up.

Well what I found was the Shimano supplied bolts were way too short and the ones that the sram’s used tightened up but there was still about a 10mm gap between the top of the bolt head and the caliper so it flapped about, likely I need some longer spacers!

Hopefully I’ll get chance to try the brakes again tomorrow, today was spent doing DIY!

Thought I’d post as a weekend funny…. Bear in mind I’ve never done this before, and have babybrain I think….

I had the caliper bolts the wrong way around and they’re of course different lengths 🤣! Absolutely zero need for different mounts as they’re obviously compatible with all brands… so I’ve got all the parts ex the matchmaker and should I get the time can’t wait to get them properly setup!

Well finally got around to having the time to fit one brake, so did the rear. Hopefully get the front done tomorrow.

Not 100% sure yet but think there MAY be a tiny leak or it was just what came out the lever when I pushed the cable in. I read they have unions built into the levers and will need a bit of a lever bleed.

Most frustrating part though, fitted brand new rotors (just used SRAM centreline 200’s I’d bought previously) and they rub… when I first put them on, they were rubbing quite severely but I mean really grabby. I was very impressed they had that power when I wasn’t even touching the lever… Going to have to do some fettling as can’t really do a lever bleed til they’re not rubbing!

Im usually pretty good at very carefully getting the caliper perfect but. I matter what I did with these they rubbed on off… I’ve read SRAM’s rotors are .5 mm thicker which may be part of the cause I wonder

Rubbing for the entire revolution of the wheel, if so on one side only or both sides? If only one side (always the same side) brake pad is rubbing then caliper is not aligned or one piston is too advanced. Realign or move piston back using the plastic pad spacer. If rubbing both sides of brake pads are rubbing then pistons are too advanced. Push them back using the plastic pad spacer.

Or rubbing at certain points of a wheel revolution, could be one side only or one side then the other side? Disc needs straightening. Yes they might be new but that doesn’t mean they’re straight. If this is the issue I’m sure we can talk you through (or find a YouTube video) to talk you through the process.

Thanks for the reply, so yes it is just at certain points in the revolution. I’m going to get the pads out and spin the wheel in place to have a good look…. With the finned pads I found it harder to tell if there was daylight through the other side.

Will be having another look today, i think you’re right though it may be that the disk isn’t totally flat. I did buy them as genuine from lordgun which came from abroad so they may have had something heavy on them at points.

Before I started adjusting the caliper position when it rubbed it REALLY bit and I was amazed at the power there though so wonder if that’s the compound on the Shimano pads! Will update when I’ve had a chance to investigate further

Sorted it…. Good god so the extreme grippiness of the brake was…. The disk on occasions touching the caliper as they were mounted wrong! Seems I’d got the brake mount around the wrong way!

Bit of head scratching and sorted that, front brake cut, fitted and both bled… working a treat now. Just need to find a long slope to bed the brakes in as we live in the flattest county in the UK 🤣

Thanks for all the advice, the thing I was wary of was screwing in the cable into the lever, I expected that I’d just keep tightening til it stopped, whereas I stopped when it got “pretty tight”. Anyway so far no leaks, did the GMBN Henry bleed tip where you wind in and back the pad spacer bolt a few times, bleed each time at the lever and all working well! 👍

If I’m honest I’m chuffed as it’s something many would get a bikeshop to do, did a short shakedown ride and no issues found

Oh god the next headache! Finding the right matchmaker to fit the SLX new levers!

I just don’t understand! Bought a bikeyoke Ispec EV adapter from TF Tuned which apparently fits SRAM X1 shifter. Look at this! It just doesn’t!!
I will ring them when I can, but all I can think is that it is the wrong adapter and their site is wrong, but it can’t be!! The shifter is nowhere near the grips even when moved fully to the right hand side! This is what I ordered https://www.tftuned.com/i-spec-ev-adapter/p3899

Looking at the link it looks like you need a right but on your photo it looks like a left