Spray Painting

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  • Spray Painting
  • Premier Icon zippykona
    Subscriber

    I’ve had a fly land on a bonnet and then try and swim his way out of my lovely lacquer. His legs and wings came off in the process.
    This is in a proper pukka spray booth.
    What kind of crap do you think will land in your paint?!
    Sure ,its doable but will look bloody awful.
    If you don’t care what it looks like ,brush it on.

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    What kind of crap do you think will land in your paint?!

    Keep an eye out for a land rover with cow hoof prints on the bonnet.

    Pigface
    Member

    Its all in the prep work, when you apply paint make sure you do it evenly and I am tempeted to say lightly but that is the wrong word.

    Can you build a temp spray booth, painted a mates transit in a silage clamp once, came out ok. Wouldnt win any prizes but was sericeable no runs or waves.

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    I was thinking of building a spray booth out of a couple of cheap gazebos and a roll of plastic sheeting.

    £25 each + £30 for the sheeting would be £80.

    Forge_Master
    Member

    If your using 2k then i would suggest an air fed mask or at least a good mist vapour disposable.

    I would do it in synthetic and get your prep right.

    Premier Icon zippykona
    Subscriber

    Will you be the Boss Of Gloss,or His Highness Of Dryness?!

    Forge_Master
    Member

    Im at work so can’t get on ebay. Obviously 3m are going to be the safe option but you will pay a premium.

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    I shall be the Buddha of bubbles and the Diva of drips.

    Premier Icon zippykona
    Subscriber

    When I had to paint a van with some synthetic paint it looked spot on when i left it. The next morning i had a run that was 15 foot long.
    My finest moment.

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    I’ve seen The Day of the Jackal.
    Foxy makes it look a breeze.

    I need to tidy up the landy roof and I have four new doors that need priming and painting. Im getting a quote from a local paintshop, but It’s going to be difficult convincing them that this is for an agricultural finish, not concourse… and that I want to do as much prep work as possible to keep the cost down.

    Spray cans will cost an arm and a leg.

    Ive seen this on ebay for £150. Primers, cleaners, paints, 2K lacquers, thinners, spray gun etc. And I can probably get hold of a compressor from a mate.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290299550129?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    Is it doable?

    buzz1024
    Member

    roller it with rustoleum paint – flat it back then polish – comes out a lot better than you think it will.

    sharkbait
    Member

    I’ve got a gun you can borrow!

    robfury
    Member

    In 2k paint there is isocynate. I used to work as a painter. Without airfed or at least normal mask and extraction you risk your life. Plus it’s not as easy as it looks

    Premier Icon zippykona
    Subscriber

    Bhopal was isocynate if I recall correctly.

    johnellison
    Member

    I need to tidy up the landy roof and I have four new doors that need priming and painting. Im getting a quote from a local paintshop, but It’s going to be difficult convincing them that this is for an agricultural finish, not concourse… and that I want to do as much prep work as possible to keep the cost down.

    Spray cans will cost an arm and a leg.

    Have you considered spray-on vinyl?

    Just done the boot lid of my MR2 which was a mis-match for the rest of the car. £35 all in, no prep needed other than wiping down the old paint with prep cloths. No polishing at the end either cos it’s a matt finish. Don’t like it? Peel it off! Easy.

    Check out CarDip UK – link HERE

    Premier Icon geoffj
    Subscriber

    Does that kit include etching primer? I thought you needed that and a different type of filler for ali landy bodywork?

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    if you’re not going back to metal do you still need a primer? Dumb Qu, but I have no idea. That’s what you lot are for.

    john – I did consider a vinyl wrap but it looked a bit expensive as I would have to get someone in to do it.
    I think I need a tougher finish though, and Im guessing it’s not going to be cheap if I need to do 100 sq ft.

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    that cardip does look smart john.

    how tough is it though?

    trail_rat
    Member

    Stoner . Roller it its a landy.

    You use a gloss roller and it will come out grand.

    Did my roof with rollered hammerite.

    trail_rat
    Member

    Car dip doesnt last long , mate did his fibreglass mccoy kit car

    Looks awful and its only been on the road a couple months.

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    hammerite or smoothright?

    And what about in the nooks & corners with a brush, doesnt it look lumpy?

    trail_rat
    Member

    Naw , go look up roller painting on landyzone.

    I used plane old hammerite – not the hammered finish one but the smooth one. – but not the tin labled smoothrite

    What colour you going for ? Was your bonetti silver ?

    Mines was just standard landy cream so i went with off white. Going to do my truck cab black this time when i rebuild.

    Junkyard
    Member

    if you’re not going back to metal do you still need a primer? Dumb Qu, but I have no idea. That’s what you lot are for.

    It will probably “key” ok without primer but I would test an area first

    Its much harder than it looks as it runs easier than you think. you could [ ie i have] easily mess it up.
    Lots of thin coats would be my advice

    i would hand paint [rollers] it with boat paint personally – you will get a shiny glossy surface [from a few feet away] with a sort of orange peel affect close up – the later depends on what your metal is like in the first place

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    Yep – Mines a bonatti grey, but Im thinking of going to a plain white roof and doors. Im not painting the bulkhead or the B pillars so they’ll be galv coloured.

    That leaves the bonnet, wings and rear tub in bonatti until I do something about them. But as you say, rollered hammerite might be the solution then. How far to key it first though?

    Premier Icon zippykona
    Subscriber

    If its smooth manufacturers primer use a green or red scotch brite.
    If its a bit bumpy use 240 dry paper as well. Make sure you get all the corners.

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    zippy – ?
    The landy is currently a metallic grey colour. might be lacquered, cant be sure.

    Premier Icon nedrapier
    Subscriber

    winding the windows down is quicker than masking them.

    trail_rat
    Member

    Id leave it bonatti , if just to disguise the galve bulkhead and b pillars.

    It will be an object of desire once galvied

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    unfortunately that’s an expensive option. To maintain the proper bonatti metallic grey paint job will require a paint shop.

    Junkyard
    Member

    How far to key it first though?

    till its dull or smooth

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    great.
    Im assuming one ought to do it by hand and not just by wanging 400 grit on the random orbital sander?

    Junkyard
    Member

    depends orbital can produce the circular lines but the good news for you is you probably cannot spray well enough for anyone to see them 😉

    No primer and I would do it by hand if finish is critical.
    If not power tool time for speed

    petrieboy
    Member

    What about using a vinyl wrap? Doesn’t need to be matte black carbon effect if that’s not your thing…..

    rogerthecat
    Member

    As mentioned above Rustoleum rollered on and flatted will look fine, the VW Syncro guys use it a lot. I painted an old VW Bay in yellow Smoothrite, looked good for a year and then faded & looked crap, couldn’t buff it up to a shine again. Did hold the non rusty metal together for a year though! 😀

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    cheers junky.

    I have no idea what rustoleum is, but will read up.

    I think, despite the glitzy vids and sites, I’m going to park the vinyl ideas.

    rogerthecat
    Member

    There’s a few videos on YouTube about rollering with Rustoleum, got some bookmarked on the laptop. Will post links in the morning.

    Premier Icon takisawa2
    Subscriber

    400 is quite rough. I’d say 500, even 800 to finish off before painting. If you go through to bare alloy anywhere you should etch prime it to key it to the alloy. As said, use a simulated mohair roller for doing gloss paint & it will come out fine. Once it’s hard, not just dry but hard you can flat it dull with 1200 grade paper & polish up. If your doing this I’d get some cutting compound. T-Cut is ok to finish off but you can get some that’s slightly grittier so to speak. Even brush painting can be flatted back to a perfectly smooth finish if you put the work in. Get a “tack-rag” for the final wipe off before the paint goes on.

    I’ve sprayed plenty of cars over the years. Cellulose “knacker-lacquer” is dead easy. Plenty of thin coats. Don’t worry too much about a good finish straight from the gun. Building a spray booth is fine in theory but in reality you’ll be choked out in minutes. Not too bad with cellulose but do that with 2-pack & you could kill yourself.
    At this time of year you only get a few good dry hours at best each day if your spraying outside. Any moisture will balls it up. I sprayed an XR3i once, on a freezing cold day. The runs were that bad it looked like a bodykit.

    rogerthecat
    Member

    Here you go:

    [video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRWttQ[/video]

    And this one’s also good:

    [video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2mVvKT-r1I[/video]

    Premier Icon Stoner
    Subscriber

    cheers roger, taki.

    I think rollering and finishing is looking the most sensible for the roof. Especially as I know you can get matching hammerite in a can to do the tricky bits that the roller wont.
    Not sure about the doors though.

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