- This topic has 32 replies, 18 voices, and was last updated 5 years ago by baboonz.
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Spec my bird
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EwanFree Member
Not like that!
Having finally decided on my size, any obvious changes to make to the proposed spec below. For background it needs to be ok for riding techy rocky stuff in the alps and ok for the stuff i normally ride in the UK (swinley, wales, all day type stuff etc). Not a fan of SRAM brakes or gears (yes i’ve had both).
Main decision points seem to be the wheels, the cassette, seatpost
Aeris 145 LT
Seat clamp: Bird own brand
Headset: Bird own brand
Rear axle: Maxle ultimate (the one with a handle)
Rear shock: Metric size RS Deluxe RT3 Debonair (i’ll always run it fully open, so the RT3 is a bit pointless, but the RT doesn’t have bearings at both ends)
Forks: RS Lyrik RCT3 160mm Debonair 2018 (2019 not in stock yet – was tempted to save 200g with the Pike, but apparently the lyrik feels ‘better’)
Brakes: Shimano SLX m7000 (could go XT but the last set I had were russian roulette with the bleeding, the SLX ones I’ve got now are faultless)
Rear mech: SLX M7000 11spd
Shifter: XT M8000
Casette: SLX (should I got XT here?)
Chain: 11 speed one
Discs: Shimano icetech ones 203 / 180mm (mainly as they look cooler than the normal ones)
Wheels: Either DT Swiss E1700 or DT Swiss XM1501 for £300 more (is it worth the extra for a 300g saving?)
Cranks: XT with XT bb
Tyres: Maxis high roller 2s in 2.3 two command max terra (front and rear as that’s what i currently have, but could be convinced to change to another Maxxis)
Stem: Raceface turbine 35 in 32mm length (they don’t offer 31.6mm any more which is annoying)
Bars: Raceface atlas 35 probably in 35mm rise
Grips: Raceface half nelson (I will ditch these immediately and put some yeti harcore lock ons on it)
Seat post: Bike yoke revive dropper in 160 or maybe 185mm (length to be decided once i measure my existing frame this evening) – not sure if to go for this or the Raceface dropper in 150 which is a lot cheaper. Basically I just want something reliable.
Saddle: Fabric Scoop elite (i’m sure it’ll be fine)All input welcome – keen to place the order in ASAP!
al2000Full MemberDefinitely go with the Revive post – I’ve had mine over 18 months now and it’s been flawless.
Fresh Goods Friday 696: The Middling Edition
Latest Singletrack VideosFresh Goods Friday 696: The Middlin...chiefgrooveguruFull Member“Tyres: Maxis high roller 2s in 2.3 two command max terra (front and rear as that’s what i currently have, but could be convinced to change to another Maxxis)”
DHR2 is better at everything – 2.4 front and either 2.4 or 2.3 rear. Or for dryer conditions, DHF 2.5 front. Or wetter Shorty 2.5 or even High Roller 2 2.4. But not the High Roller 2 2.3! And I’d go 3C front, dual compound rear if you can. Definitely 3C front though.
What’s the gearing? Chainring size and cassette range? I was running 32t 11-36, just changed my full-sus to 34t 10-50 and liking the extra fast gears as much as the extra easier ones.
cultsdaveFree MemberI have a Bird and went with the standard Cane Creek offering at the time. The bearings lasted no time and I ended up replacing the whole thing with a Hope one. Not sure on the quality of the Bird own brand though.
I would go Hope for the brakes too.
mikewsmithFree MemberLooking at the prices is it £100 to go to GX eagle over the XT11? Seems a no brainer but been happy with SRAM here for a long time
EwanFree MemberDHR2 is better at everything – 2.4 front and either 2.4 or 2.3 rear. Or for dryer conditions, DHF 2.5 front. Or wetter Shorty 2.5 or even High Roller 2 2.4. But not the High Roller 2 2.3! And I’d go 3C front, dual compound rear if you can. Definitely 3C front though.
I’m far too lazy to change my tyres for anything unless they have a hole in them. At the moment I find high rollers to be the one true tyre as they’re fine for everything. I accept my sphere of knowledge may be limited tho (having always used to run high roller 1s then changed to 2s!). Are the DHRs the minions? I can get those in DHR2 2.3 TR 3C or DHR2 TR 3C 2.4 WT – i have no idea what WT stands for!
What are minons like in the wet?
Gearing, i’ll get the 11-46 in the back and probably a 30T at the front. I like to spin up things, tho I might go 32T as i’m a lot fitter than I used to be now I ride 6000km a year commuting to work!
joebristolFull MemberI’d try to wait for the new Lyriks I think – if you can get the rc2 version. If you can’t get rc2 I’d get the 2018 ones and change the airspring from the 2019 one at a later date as they retro fit.
If you do a lot of alps then maybe go for the Super deluxe shock with the piggyback.
For me as long as gears work and you like them I can’t see much point in going up the range to save a few grams.
I don’t like Shimano brakes and hear about some of the problems with unreliability (3 pairs of Guides have worked perfectly for me). I hear people recommending Deore over SLX and just getting the 200/180 rotors and upgrading the pads. Either that or look at Hope E4/V4.
Tyre wise I like the 2.5” Dhf 3c exo on the front of my Aeris and I’ve got a dhr2 2.3 on the back in the winter – just swapped back to an aggressor for the summer.
I am curious about trying a Magic Mary next winter.
If budget is tight I’d go all SLX instead of XT, and Deore brakes instead of SLX. Then spend the budget on the rear shock. You could also go aftermarket for a Brand X 150mm dropper to save money there. I wouldn’t downgrade to a Pike – for the kind of bike it is you’ll be better with a Lyrik.
Not sure about the wheels – I just went E1900 and they’ve been fine so far. Maybe would be nice to go to a 30mm inner rim than the 25mm I’ve got in an ideal world.
chiefgrooveguruFull Member“Looking at the prices is it £100 to go to GX eagle over the XT11? Seems a no brainer”
I’ve been on Shimano for years and just switched to GX Eagle (which involved giving up my amazing Saint 10 speed shifter). For £100 more it is a no brainer – 10-50 is so much wider range than 11-46, and the details like the chainring and chain are so well thought out.
I’d go with the DHR2 2.4 WT 3C front and back. If it feels too draggy swap the rear for a dual compound 2.3 and keep it as a spare front tyre or for the Alps.
P-JayFree MemberI’ve been playing with it for months!
For me it’s:
Superdelux shock.
lyrik or perhaps Yari… I love my Yari, but I know the Lyrik is lovelier.
GX Eagle, I’m a Shimano man at heart, but can’t lool past Eagle for the price, although I know I’ll weep when it’s time to drop £200 on a casette and chain.
Which means Guide brakes which I really don’t want -I’ll probbaly sell them and fit my existing XTs
EwanFree MemberSounds like DHR2s are the way to go – 2.3s probably to reduce drag in the UK. I find 2.3 high rollers are fine in the alps, and I assume the minions come up the same size ?
Main reason I don’t like SRAM for brakes and gears are the years of Avid I had which just seemed to randomly stop working and the gears that seem a lot less reliable than the shimano equivlent. They also follow a gillette pricing model – flog it cheap to OEM and then charge 200 quid for a casette. Can’t be doing with it, and I really like the shimano 11spd I have on my current bike – yet to find something I can’t spin up with it.
What advantages does the piggy back shock bring? Obviously heavier, but is it just meaning it heats up on the alpine discuss less? To be honest we tend to stop every so often to discuss how awesome we’ve just been / cry about arm pump. In other words, the shock will cool down…
Unfortunately can’t wait for the 2019 forks – off to the alps shortly, so i’ll have to pony up for the 50 quid upgrade later if required.
Budgets is not tight within reason – I just hate having to replace things because they don’t work properly or need loads of maintence. Defintely not getting hope brakes, had some tech M4s – pile of crap.
mikewsmithFree MemberMain reason I don’t like SRAM for brakes and gears are the years of Avid I had which just seemed to randomly stop working and the gears that seem a lot less reliable than the shimano equivlent. They also follow a gillette pricing model – flog it cheap to OEM and then charge 200 quid for a casette. Can’t be doing with it, and I really like the shimano 11spd I have on my current bike – yet to find something I can’t spin up with it.
Yep Avid is not SRAM brakes and the 11/12 is very different but people never want to believe that 😉 Also cassettes are longer lasting so about the same value over time – again GX vs XT not XX/XO obviously that is XTR and beyoned territory 🙂
What advantages does the piggy back shock bring?
It gives you more room to work with the oil in there and to do more stuff with the damping,
EwanFree Memberpeople never want to believe that
Indeed we don’t 😀
On the shock side – do you think piggy back is actually noticable in day to day riding?
mark90Free Memberdo you think piggy back is actually noticable in day to day riding
Before buying my current bike I demo’d a few and found I prefered the Monarch Plus RC3 over the Monarch RT3. It felt better, more controlled, more plush in open, less ‘wooden’. Is that cos is piggy back or is there more magic going on inside? I dunno but I bought the plus piggy back shock.
If you’re set on shimano, I’d be tempted to ditch the SLX/XT cassette and go with a sunrace simply to get rid of that 37-46T jump, that’s the only gripe I have with my shimano drive trains.
My M7000 brakes have been fine after one was swapped out under warranty early on. I’d buy again. Have M785 on the other bike so like to keep to same shimano feel.
Unless budget is really tight (and you say it’s not) I’d go for the revive dropper.
Wheels, I’d rather run 300g lighter wheels and 300g heavier tyres for better protection and damping (generally)
baboonzFree Member1. GX eagle drivetrain, I’ve had it since November on mine, it has been flawless-haven’t had to adjust anything, and that includes the nasty Scottish conditions that we’ve had this year.
2. spec deores instead of slx to save a bit of $$$.
3. 2.5 wt minion up front, I’ve just switched it from the 2.3 and really liking it. On the 30mm the 2.3 looks a little bit square, although this is probably more in the marginal gains territory.
My raceface dropper has been working good also, maybe not as premium as the rockshox but again, want to save the $$.
I’ve been also running the M1700, and have faired well, however I don’t like jumping too much or big drops.
joebristolFull MemberI didn’t like the dhr2 at the front – I’ve got the 2.3 3c Exo. I found it a bit snappy and lost the front end a few times. I find the dhf 2.5 3c wt Exo more predictable.
The dhr2 at the back however has been great all winter. Always better in muddy conditions but has a nice amount of slip when you want it to in berms etc. It drives and brakes really well.
Just fitted my aggressor now it’s a lot drier and whilst it rolls faster you do notice a lower amount of ultimate grip.
oikeithFull MemberI’ve been on Shimano for years and just switched to GX Eagle (which involved giving up my amazing Saint 10 speed shifter). For £100 more it is a no brainer
Until its time to replace the cassette and chain and its boat load more, or if you have a crash and need to replace the shifter or mech of the GX! A friend of mine is on his 3rd GX Eagle mech since November!
mikewsmithFree MemberUntil its time to replace the cassette and chain and its boat load more,
Final point…. Cost price is not ownership cost. If it lasts longer it can be cheaper or the same price.
joebristolFull MemberI’m a bit torn on eagle – I’m on the previous 11 speed GX and that’s been 100% reliable – no broken mechs / chains / cassette teeth etc. Whilst I would like a tiny bit more range on th worst climbs I don’t think it’s worth the premium.
If I were speccing a new bike now I think I would go GX eagle though. Ever since trying Sram with double tap on a racer in 2010 I’ve preferred he feel of their shifting. Although Shimano wouldn’t be a deal breaker for a bike – my new Cannondale Caad12 has 105. Shifters have a funny lump on hem where the bleed port is, and the gears are vague compared to the Sram Rival I had before.
On the brake front I like Guides and have had 3 pairs now that have been great.
joemmoFree MemberNever mind the components – which colour?
oh ok, components then: not a lot to add but I was a dedicated Shimanoist but specced GX 11spd on Bird’s advice and haven’t regretted it though they added Eagle to the spec choice a month after I bought the bike and I would have bought that… I’ve fitted a 30T to the front to get a fraction lower grinding gear
Brakes wise, my Aeris came with Level T which I sold straight off and replaced with Guide RE which are as much brake as I can imagine ever needing.
Tyres – 2.3 DHF / DHR on 30mm rims – seems pretty good combo so far
I think you’d be ok with the E1700 wheels – looks like they have the ratchet freehub and presumably compatible with all the end cap / axle bits that DT do. I would just get the standard bolt thru axle on the rear unless you need to take the wheel off regularly. It’s cleaner looking and less damage prone
EwanFree MemberNever mind the components – which colour?
That’s easy – orange FTW!
joemmoFree MemberNever mind the components – which colour?
That’s easy – orange FTW!
I approve 🙂
jamesmioFree MemberSounds like you’re looking at a similar-ish build to my 140 a couple of years back.
I went XT spinny bits and Zee stoppy bits – warranty job on the brake levers aside, I’ve been really happy with both.
Opted for the piggyback Monarch, really can’t say if it’s been worthwhile as I’ve nothing to compare it to. If I were to buy again, I’d probably opt for a slightly cheaper shock then put the £££ saved towards getting it custom tuned/setup for my weight etc by a JTech/TF/Flotec.
One thing’s for sure, I haven’t regretted any of the Hope bits I opted for:
Replacing the bottom bracket bearings was easy as the nearest bike shop had them on the shelf when needed
The headset hasn’t given a second’s grief in the two years it’s been running and has required zero attention. Not even a nipping up – and that’s been run year round through Scottish slop.
Same for both hubs (Pro 4 Evo) – haven’t needed so much as a bearing I don’t think.
daviekFull MemberThey did do custom wheels a while back but not looked for a while. Hope hubs and a choice of DTswiss time but can’t remember the cost
chiefgrooveguruFull MemberI really would go for a 2.4 or 2.5 Maxxis up front – the extra drag is imperceptible and the extra cornering and braking grip is so worth having. Note that the extra size is partly casing volume and partly bigger toothier (and more widely spaced) knobs.
EwanFree MemberOrange? Have you not seen the Green!
That’s what I thought until I saw the Orange. The one true colour.
joebristolFull MemberI wanted green but they were out of stock at the time. So got Orange – still love it – but every time I see a green one something inside me dies!
If you went Sram GX eagle you’d have not only the bigger range but you could get guide re’s for not a lot of money which have the Code caliper but the guide lever. Imagine that’s a lot of brake. My guide r’s with 200/180 discs always have more than enough power for every situation so far. The only brakes I’d consider swapping them for if I needed more would probably be codes.
tdogFree MemberAs long as it’s blonde in colour and has big suspenders, I’ll be waiting when you sell her ;-d
GiallograleFull MemberWider rims. Those rims are 25mm internal. Can you get say 35mm? They’ll work better with bigger tyres.
Maxxis WT tyres are designed for wider rims.
As for tyres, what Chiefgrooveguru says.
AlexSimonFull MemberGuide brakes feel good to use, but are finicky with setup – not enough clearance compared to Shimano’s servo wave.
Tyres – if you like grip grip and more grip on the rear, then go Minion front and rear – 3C at least on the front.
If you like the rear to break away before the front, then I like the High Roller out back.
Everything that makes the HRII good as a rear, makes it poor as a front imo.I haven’t ridden Lyrics, so I don’t know about those.
Not a fan of the look of icetech rotors myself.
Wheels – if you like technical climbs it’s worth getting the upgraded ratchet.
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