Is this a common problem?

Let me explain further.

Our youngest’s bike often suffers rubbing front brake discs after wheel removal and replacement. Last night I finally (after lots of head scratching) figured out why. With the bike upside down (yes, I know I know, shoot me :mrgreen:) and the front wheel in the fork drop-outs, the wheel can be moved a tiny amount fore and aft on each side, and will stay that way upon tightening the QR.

Now, if one side is forward, and the other side back, it’s enough to cause disc rub on a front brake that was previously working perfectly with adequate pad clearance.

So obviously an oversize drop-out spec, but having no other disc braked bikes on hand, just wondered how common this was?

Anyone?

Never had it myself.

Sounds annoying, but at least now you know what the issue is, you can take a second more each time to pull both sides to the back.

if the QR is tight, surely this is just play in the bearings that can be tightened up?

I can’t imagine its actually moving in the dropouts. Thats quite a dangerous situation as its what causes the wheel ejection when you put the front brake on? If it is, get a shimano skewer and do it up tight!

I just found a similar issue today when cleaning my bike.

I have 2011 RS Revelation RLT Ti’s with 20mm maxle and if I grip the wheel and move side to side there is a slight horizontal movement. Everything seems tight.

I had that problem with a Hope Pro2 hub in Singular Hummingbird forks. Dropouts in forks were 10mm, ends of wheel spindle were 9mm-ish. I made up a couple of little tubular shims to take up the clearance and Loctited them in place on the wheel spindle.

if the QR is tight, surely this is just play in the bearings that can be tightened up?

I can’t imagine its actually moving in the dropouts. Thats quite a dangerous situation as its what causes the wheel ejection when you put the front brake on? If it is, get a shimano skewer and do it up tight!

You’ve misunderstood the issue and/or perhaps I didn’t explain well enough.

With a tightened QR there is zero play. The hub bearings have optimal pre-load having the correct smidge of play which a tightened QR removes. The only QRs I use are Shimano.

The issue is merely the position of the wheel with a loose QR is not constant, and that not constant position is kept when the QR is tightened. So, you could remove and reattach the wheel ten times and get perhaps ten difference wheel positions, some of which will cause brake rub, some of which won’t. If I were to adjust the brakes so that no brake rub occurred with the wheel in any wheel position, they wouldn’t be very effective!

penguinni, think you might have misunderstood too.

Andy R, excellent, at least I’m not going mad then (well, not on this particular issue anyway). I’ll get the verniers out at the weekend measure up and see what size the fork dropouts are.