Middleburns on square tapers. The main SS bike is used throughout the winter mud fest and old tech taper BB’s just last longer than any of the wide axled spline options.
Also running a HT2 on another newer SS but that’s just because I had the parts in the spares box. You would be hard pushed to tell any difference between the two setups ridden back to back.
Use whatever you feel like. There’s no wrong type after all.Posted 5 years agosoulstealerMember
Ok so I’m guessing this topic has been raised on here before but what cranks are you singlespeeders running?
I’m running Profile BMX cranks and apart from being a little weighty I can’t see any reason to run anything else. They’re strong, stiff, easy to set up perfect chainline and there are loads of tasty looking bmx rings available in all sizes which are compatible with half link chains.
I’m intrigued to know why I don’t see more folks running them, is it just weight? as BMX parts generally are much lighter than they used to be.
Come on lets see what you all think?Posted 5 years agoononeorangeSubscriber
Middleburns on Square Taper here too.
My only encounter with ST – given the amount of abuse and crud that the s/s gets, I was amazed that the (second hand, cheap Shimano) BB only developed a clonk after 6 years. Replaced for a few quid and off we go again. Converted.Posted 5 years agojamesoSubscriber
I used Profiles on a MTB a long time ago, very stiff and durable but they always felt wonky, had 2 sets and both had slight wobbles at the pedals as they rotated or not quite 180 degrees between the cranks, seems difficult to get a set that were welded 100% straight. I stuck with them as at the time there wasn’t anything else that was particularly strong, just square taper or XTRs (wrecked the tapers or splines in them). Since OS axle MTB cranks came along I’ve not seen the need for anything else, plenty stiff and durable enough. 985 XTR or older XTs on my SSs now.Posted 5 years agobm0p700fMember
Saint cranks and a 34T ring with external BB on one bike and my favourite Shimano 300lx cranks with a 36T ring and Shimano Un55 BB.
The latter has a more reliable and cheaper BB. Go for lighter cranks if weight is the issue. Old cheap lowish end shimano cranks last a very long time though. Like those middleburn, I wish my budget strethed that far.Posted 5 years agorobkhooMember
Used a load over the years – 180mm XT octalink (nicked), Truvativ Stylo SS (self extracting bolt bit stripped), cut down XTR 960 (left hand crank cracked by pinch bolts), and currently old Bonty Race Lites. Can’t say I noticed a massive difference between any of them… wouldn’t mind ressurecting the XTRs at some point if I can find a matching l/h crank though. Only use Hope BBs these days though, used to get through Truvativs in a few weeks and Shimanos weren’t much better.Posted 5 years agobent udderMember
Deore cranks with the trekking rings (26/36/48) taken off. 26 and 36 moved to my geared FS as a 2×9, 48t sold on for a tenner. Adds up to new rings for the FS bike and a new set of cranks and BB for the singlespeed for about 40 notes. Tiny weight increase over the XTs on my full suss bike, too. At the moment, I can’t imagine replacing those old XTs with anything other than a pair of Deores. I’d rather spend the money on something more important, like new forks.
I’ve run truvativs in the past, and didn’t get on with the fastening system. Square taper is great – in 20 odd years, I’ve neer had a problem I didn’t cause myself. I have to say that after trying a bunch of other options, Shimano still kicks bottom in terms of reliability and price.Posted 5 years agobikewhispererMember
Old XT hollowtech 2 on the mountain bike. Was previously running even older xt octalink, which was a tiny bit less stiff, but the BBs lasted much longer.Posted 5 years ago
Road/commute/cross bike has bullet proof square taper Campag Veloche on a Miche BB. It’s all about the ISO taper.. JIS is so last century!
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