depends how you add the links. I used to run a chain with 2 powerlinks in it and then I could drop in a 4 link (2 inch) or 6 link (3 inch) between them to allow me to run a larger rear cog and stay within the adjustment of my dropouts. Never an issue

That chain above though 8o

That is asking for trouble.

How so? A new chain is a bunch of unused links. A chain made out of a bunch of unused links (assuming you’re not mixing silly things) is just a new chain.

That’s not the same thing as a chain that’s been…

lengthened and shortened a number of times

People complain 1/8th chains are heavy – that Wipperman must weigh as much as a cassette, rear mech and shifter 🙂

I take it you don’t get much wear / stretch? Always wondered which bit wore most – on skinny derailleur chains, the roller bore is quite big and rides on flared part of inner link. On the Wipperman, is the roller much thicker wall and riding on the pin?

How so? A new chain is a bunch of unused links

A bunch of links joined together from the factory using the bets tools/machines rather than a person in their garage using a chain tool to force pins in and out.

570g for 96 links, most chains are 270g for 112!

Interestingly, “only” 1500kg breaking load, even the normal kmc singlespeed chains are 1200kg. But the shear size of the links must make them better able to shrug off the sort of stuff that actually breaks chains in the real world.

A bunch of links joined together from the factory using the bets tools/machines rather than a person in their garage using a chain tool to force pins in and out.

I was sort of assuming joining with Powerlinks or similar, but if not then yes. Though personally I’ve re-inserted pins many times (as in many pins, not many times for one pin😀) without any problems.

I do not appreciate aspersions on my mechanical aptitude kerley 😀

They’re new pins… Mostly.

Its absolutely fine. My fixed gear has a nice one piece chain with the circlip type arrangement. If it makes you feel better.