- Show me your "commuterized" hardtails
Old frame and slicks to be sure. You could think about gatorskins if you find punctures a problem.
I run 1×9, but I would think about SS if you live somewhere flat(ish) and don't have too far to go.
Discs is nice, and avoids those wet day 'Oh my god I know why I changed to discs on the MTB' moments.
I would deffo get full length mudguards, SKS is the way to go, you're just so much drier after a wet or rainy journey.
Lose the QR skewers and seat clamp. No point making it easy for 'em!
Think about a good D-lock mounted to the frame. The bike is so much more usable around town if you can just hop off and the lock is convenient. And you can't forget it either!
I love my Cane Creek Ergo bar ends, they mate up with the loc on grips too.
Hope that helps,
APFPosted 9 years agokimbersSubscriber
i have an old steel lava dome, with rigid p2 forks, natch
i love it
security allen key wheel and seat qrs
must admit i would be happier with discs as breaking in the wet and constant pad adjustment is a pita
id even consider getting some welded onto my frame and forks , but that would require a respray
best thing is with a tyre change its a great fun off road!Posted 9 years agojamesMember
Not on a commute btw. Just part of the trans pennine trail as part of a ride
Bought a trek 4100 rigid from a local freeads paper as I wanted an MTB to take the knocks of dodgy kerb mounting and the odd few stairs and not kill the wheels. A short commute meant the weight shouldn't be a real issue and at the time thought it may be usable as a spare MTB if really needed
I've had it offroad a few times and its behaved well enough. I put a 2.5" High Roller up front when I took it round the peaks. Made it quite fun once you'd your head round the arm pain
I realise its a bit shiny, so not really a hack, but the guards and 26" slicks on a 21.5" frame don't really do it any favours in the looks departmentPosted 9 years agoTalkemadaMember
Tattier the better, to deter thieves. SS for simplicity and ease of maintenance, unless you live somewhere very hilly. I run a 38/16 combo on mine; good for acceleration at lights, and reasonable speed. Not too high when you're tired though.
Suspension unnecessary and heavy. Decent wheels, with tough commuter tyres (I use Spesh Nimbus). 1.5" a good compromise for speed and comfort.
Mudguards and a rack, to keep you a bit drier/cleaner, and to carry stuff.
Decathlon sell 5-sided 'allen key type' security skewers, or use solid axles.
Proper tough lock. No point in scrimping here, as it just means needing a new bike if you get a cheap one, as it will be broken.
Basically, a bike that's unattractive to thieves, that works well and is easy to look after.Posted 9 years agoooOOooMember
A shame we have to downgrade the bikes we spend most time on, just for some chavs. Mine isn't too nice but not too shabby either. I went for a Steeloflex lock (fits round anything) and insurance, just so I can leave it without worrying too much. But your crime level may vary.
I've got 100mm forks, old saint discs, and 2.3 Super Motos. Don't lose much speed and you can hit most 'obstacles' flat out 🙂 Actually I find having good brakes in town more necessary than off road, what with these pesky cars n that.Posted 9 years agoangryratioMember
Mary bars for comfort and a spinny single speed setup for wizzing along easily with a hangover or a headwind.
The mary bars have magically cured the back ache i had been suffering for months.
Mix of continental/spesh fastish puncture resistant rubber and solid through axle cranks. Everything that has potential to fail is fairly tough, so, shimano bb, hope trials hub at rear – functions as a pedestrian moving device also.Posted 9 years agojonbMember
don't have a photo of mine but rigid with vees makes them less stealable.
Racks and full length mudguard the same.
Mines a white one one with black forks. All wraped in electrical tape over any logos and to increase the tattyness. XT labels on hubs and other bits are blacked out.
If you lock it in the same place of against the same type of object regularly then consider a bit of innertube frame protection. Mine has a nice bare metal patch where the lock goes every day.Posted 9 years agozaskarMember
Spares from my parts bin built this dead frame into my fave commuter.
Lots of fun and food carrying capacity.
I do find it tough over 15miles and carrying heavy loads when tired!
Great up hill with a tripple.
I'm told it is overbraked-which I want for rain stopping braking.
I would like 700c wheels for it, but it's great for hills and high traffic manouvering.Posted 9 years agokeppochSubscriber
What type are your mudguards Zaskar, tidy looking.
My commuter is a 1997 Rockhopper, rigid. 7 speed friction gears, 105 rear mech. Frame is covered in inner tubes.
Just in the process of some upgrading works after the last drivetrain did its 3 year term of duty.
Highly recommend considering a dynamo front hub, permenant availibility of lights independant of batteries has been brilliant.
keppochPosted 9 years agoepicsteveMember
This is my current commuter
The frame was new but all the rest, other than the rear mech, were bits I had lying around. I've got mudguards for it somewhere but haven't got round to bodging them on yet. The spec is a bit varied due to being a parts bit special, with some nice bits (Hope XC/X317 wheels, XT mechs and shifter, Pace RC31 forks, Easton EA70 stem and bars) and some cheaper stuff (Deore chainset and brakes, Easton EA50 post, Specialized saddle that was from my Epic, cheapo Schwalbe slicks).
I had an Inbred built up as a commuter before but switched to the slot-dropout frame as I wanted an easy singlespeed option and the ease of fitting a rack and disk brakes.Posted 9 years ago
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