Shimano XT brakes on an Orange 5
-1 for getting the hopes working.
sell them as they are, be honest and someone will take them off you hands for a suprisingly good price. I sold a set of M4’s that needed a serious amount of work and bought a set of XT’s instead for pretty much the same price.
That was about three years ago and I havent had to touch the XT’s since.Posted 4 years ago
Just got of the phone with the very friendly chaps at Hope. I’m going to do some maintenance on my brakes. He mentioned lubing the pistons which i’ve never done so maybe i’m just poor at looking after my brakes. I’ll report back with how it goes.
Anyone else do this?Posted 4 years ago
Nope not done that, probably should. Do the pistons need to be removed?
If you decide to dissassemble the callipers, bear in mind the bore cap on X2s winds inwards for removal (towards the centre of the calliper with a righty-tighty move), not outwards.
I ****ed up an X2 calliper doing this wrong, as it’s reversed to older model Hopes. I lefty-loosened it with all my might because it wouldn’t come out, which actually, was tightening it. Doh.
Check the exploded diagrams on the Hope site to make sure I’m not talking nonsense. It was a little while ago.
(I have stripped and rebuilt Mono Mini and M4 callipers successfully in the past, and have some X2s that now deserve some attention).Posted 4 years ago
Apparently you can just squeeze some silicon grease on them and pull the brakes on and off to get them lubed.
He recommended this stuff: http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/219/hopesilgrease/hope-silicon-grease-30ml.html
It goes under the name of hunters silicon grease and it’s what plumbers use apparently.
I’m inclined to think I knacked up the bleeding process when I didn’t tip the lever 90 degress at the end of the process and squeezed. He mentioned that and there is a video that describes the process.
I missed that step. I could be a dick 🙂Posted 4 years ago
You’re not a dick. Wanting your brakes to work nicely is most un-dickish.
I’ve not managed to get a good bleed on my Tech X2s yet, they may need a seal change I think, I’ve not had time to do it (should probably send to Hope). My Race Evo X2s are good. Light, pretty, and do all the stopping I need for the bike they’re on.Posted 4 years ago
Cheers Matt. I’ve got hopes on too… Think they are sintered as well.
I’ve just been out for a quick ride to test the feel again so I can describe it a bit better.
Basically I can pull on the front brake and it feels like there isn’t anything there. Eventually it stops me but I would say it take a second or so. I’ve just adjusted the biting point to all the way in so the bite kicks in a little earlier. It has helped make the brakes feel a little more reactive but it still seems like I can ride along if I pull the front in with just one finger.Posted 4 years ago
Well I just have to hold my hands up and say it looks like I was saying bad things about Hope and was completely wrong.
I just took of my front rotor and cleaned it with acetone (it’s all i had to hand) and then hot soapy water and gave it a rinse. Took my pads out and they had a glaze to them. Sanded them back to the good stuff and refitted everything. Did a quick bed in and my brakes feel how they should again… there is bite there and I can’t ride forwards when I’m holding the levers.
I even noticed that I have a 183 rotor on the front already!
With all this in mind I need to start taking care of my bike more. Any tips for a tool set up that I need for maintaining the bike greatly appreciated. I think i’ll get a workstand to work on it.
Cheers for everyones help. You’ve saved me some cash. Sorry for dissing Hope :o)Posted 4 years ago
brilliant. today you changed your life, you can use the LBS when you want to not because you have to, and you can buy second hand frames and build them yourself too
key tools, you may have most:
* a set of normal hex keys
* a set of small spanners
* a set of the ‘3 in a star’ hex keys, these are brilliant because usually the size you need next is already in your hand (but they don’t always fit in tight spaces)
* a cable cutter
* a chain whip for removing cassettes
* cassette lockring tightner-upperer
* a BB removal tool
A workstand is a good idea, plus space to use it of course.
Other bits and pieces, get when you need them.Posted 4 years agobrassneckSubscriber
183 is not equal to 180, as I fear I have found by going to XT from X2 Tech for many of the same reasons. I’ve packed out the mount but there is still a ‘ting’ noise from I think the rotor when I lean on the front climbing or at speed.
Going to sub in a real 180 and see if that cures it. I didn’t even know it was 183 till I had a really good look.Posted 4 years ago
Thanks Matt that’s great info. I’ve always been a tinkerer but it’s time to get serious 🙂
Is buying a set like this a good way to go?
Or best to build up from individual bits? I need an ISIS crank remover for getting my race face cranks off… think that’s included in there.Posted 4 years ago
Ha! Yeah I really do feel like i’ve been saved :o)
On another random thread… I’m thinking of changing my stem size. I rode a smaller framed bike the other day and could throw it around a bit more. Would shortening the stem size help that feeling a little on my 18 inch orange? I’m 5ft 11.
I was thinking of going Hope 50mm 0 rise…Posted 4 years ago
I dno what the standard 5 bars are, but short stem ‘narrow’ bars would feel odd to me. Very fast steering I would expect, and a bit unstable.
I’d say get some wide ones (760 maybe), ride them a bit, then cut them down if you don’t get on with them. But you may well like them.Posted 4 years ago
nah all you need for messing about with bars and stems is hex keys, and maybe a T25 Torx driver if you have SRAM
inconveniently speccedtreasured bits. dive in.
I mess about with bars etc a lot so only use 100% lock on grips, so they only take a moment to take off
a DIY store pipe cutter works very well for shortening alloy bars (and fork steerers), I believe you’re,meant to use a hacksaw for carbonPosted 4 years ago
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