Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)
  • Shifting got worse after changing chain?
  • toronte
    Free Member

    Hello there
    I just changed my chain because the indicator said so(checked regularly). I had no issues with it, it ran quiet, changed gears precise and fast, worked awesome. Cassette not showing any visual sign of wear. Just changed to brand new, same type of chain as before (Shimano CN-HG 7701 Durace/XTR). Now it runs quite noisy and occasionally it hesitates when shifting to a bigger ring at the back, like my rear derailleur wasn’t set up correctly.
    Is this normal? Should have I got my LBS to fit the new chain? Does it take time for the new chain to bed in? (XTR rear derailleur and XT cassette)

    Cougar
    Full Member

    Slacken off the cable slightly?

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    Your cassette and chain have probably worn together and the old (Although not too worn) cassette isn’t meshing properly with the new chain. Bugger all you can do about that apart from refit the old chain, or buy a new cassette as well..!

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    glen815
    Free Member

    Change the cassette.

    Edric64
    Free Member

    Cassette needs changing .There are many threads started about this .A cassette can look fine but not work with a new chain unless you change the chain every few weeks which would not be economical !!

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    Change the cassette.

    Or, like I said, refit the old chain. Which is cheaper than buying a new cassette. Then keep the new chain you have until it’s REALLY needed…… with a new cassette then! 🙂

    Nezbo
    Free Member

    You will need to change chain rings (maybe just the middle one) and cassette probably…

    Get a Chain length checker, then change you chain when it gets to 0.75 then your cassette and chain rings last a lot longer 🙂

    toronte
    Free Member

    Thank y’all for the answers.
    I’ve got a checker and check the chain wear after each ride. Changed the chain as soon as the checker fell between the rolllers(0,75). That’s why I was confused by the cassette wear. I’ve read that if I change the chain regularly I can lengthen the lifetime of my casssette.

    jonundercover
    Free Member

    I changed my chain and cassette at the same time only to find out the front rings needed changing too because they had worn so badly the chain was ripping off them under power. This happened even after regularly checking and replacing the chain, wear is inevitable I suppose.

    Edric64
    Free Member

    Front rings usually last longer than one cassette and chain I needed to do rings but that was after 6 years and 3 sets of chains and cassettes

    jonundercover
    Free Member

    I got through 3 chains and the 1 cassette in 14 months, gritty welsh riding for you! I ride a fair bit mind.

    crikey
    Free Member

    You’ve changed a chain when it was working perfectly and now it doesn’t….

    Lesson to be learned methinks…

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    Thank y’all for the answers.
    I’ve got a checker and check the chain wear after each ride. Changed the chain as soon as the checker fell between the rolllers(0,75). That’s why I was confused by the cassette wear. I’ve read that if I change the chain regularly I can lengthen the lifetime of my casssette.

    If you want to preserve your cassette and chain, buy two chains and swap them over every couple of rides. IME by the time a chain reaches .75 it’s getting towards being a bit too late…..

    toronte
    Free Member

    So basically if I listen to the advices I should change my cassette,rings(XTR) just because the chain wear indicator showed wear on a perfectly working drive.

    crikey:
    You’ve changed a chain when it was working perfectly and now it doesn’t….

    Lesson to be learned methinks… well said…

    iainc
    Full Member

    Having tried various methods of prolonging drivetrains I concluded a few years ago that running chain, cassette and rings till all shagged and then replacing the lot is cheaper. Regular proper post ride cleaning and lubing is good tho

    eshershore
    Free Member

    did you use a Park cassette measurement tool before replacing your chain?

    too much experience with the common chain stretch tools shows that they don’t examine wear to the rear sprockets of your cassette, especially in the smaller cogs where lack of chain wrap accelerates flog out of the cogs

    lost sight of the number of times I trusted the “chain checker” only to find the chain slipped on the smaller cogs, or shifting did not work properly

    these days? I just run the chainring, chain and cassette until it physically starts skipping, and then replace the entire lot (often with the rear derailleur or at least the pulley wheels of that rear mech)

    crikey
    Free Member

    It’s the latest ‘lets get them to buy new stuff before they need to’ effort.

    I ran a 9 speed Dura-Ace chain on Ultegra rings and cassette for 8 years on my training road bike and only changed it because I went 10 speed. It worked perfectly.

    I ran a 9 speed XT drivetrain on my Specialized FS for 3 years and it still worked perfectly.

    The idea that you can get more life out of a cassette is a non-idea; what you want is a drive train that works, not a molly-coddled cassette.

    In my opinion, the whole chain measuring thing is a con.

    eshershore
    Free Member

    @crikey

    chain measurement gives you an indication, but not the complete picture

    I’ve had numbers of customers who constantly commute using a compact chainset on a road bike meaning constant 11T and 12T use, the chain is not beyond stretched according to tools, but once measured with the cassette wear tool its obvious the smaller cogs on that cassette are worn through, and chain is slipping under power

    toronte
    Free Member

    I did not measure the cassette. It seemed okay on sight.
    I clean and lube my bike thoroughly after every dirty ride. This includes cassette,chainrings and chain too. I consider myself a pedantic person. That’s why I bought the chain measure tool to know if the time has come to change chain and prolong lifetime of other components. (Like I know to change oil+filters on my car every 10.000kms)

    Nezbo
    Free Member

    Toronte
    So basically if I listen to the advices I should change my cassette,rings(XTR) just because the chain wear indicator showed wear on a perfectly working drive

    Not really, if you change your chain before it gets/just as it gets to .75 you don’t need to change your rings and cassette, if it gets to 1.0 it’s too late. This works in my experience had an 9spd XTR cassette since 2009 still working in 2012 when changed to 10spd. This is just my opinion and it works for me and saves me loads of money 🙂 until November last year I did lots of miles.

    roverpig
    Full Member

    I can’t be much help I’m afraid, but it’s a timely thread for me as my chain has just reached .75 (on my Park checker) and I’m trying to decide whether to change the chain now or just let the whole drivetrain wear together. So, thanks for the thread, I’ll watch with interest 🙂

    warton
    Free Member

    I would have a little fiddle with your indexing and cables before you go out and buy a new cassette.

    FWIW, I’ve just changed my road bike chain after approx. 7,000 miles. no new cassette needed, but then it is campag 😉

    toronte
    Free Member

    UPDATE:

    @warton
    : you were right.

    I took the time and learned how to adjust the rear derailleur on YouTube.
    It took about 30 minutes(first timer here) and now shifting is as precise and fast as it was before.
    The chain is still running louder than the old chain but a friends friend who’s quite an expert told me that this is completely normal with a used cassette and new chain until they wear in.
    I’ve also learned (but I’m not sure about this without any personal experience) that it is possible to renew the cassette. He told me that he rasps the area between the sprockets and the cassette is good for another 10 chains this way. He runs XC races this way. He also told me that shifting is not as good as with a new cassette but still good enough to go to a race with a renewed cassette.

    I’m so glad I didn’t have to spend 300€ for a new cassette and xtr chainrings.

    warton
    Free Member

    Glad I saved you a bit of money 🙂

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