- Shed building advice needed.
4×4 + ply + decking boards would a Very heavy structure. you could slim that down a bit. hunt around for what timber is is cheap.Posted 4 years ago
do you want a window to let light in or to look out of?
if the former then go for a row or ring of 6in high lights at high level. secure.
build the door some it opens out words but closes in to a frame. Hinge guards and a gap guard to protect the door.
3X2 cls treated timber, then shiplap timber for outer skin, insulation on internal side , then wire mesh, to stop intruders, then 3/8 wbf ply on the inside.
For floor use cls treated timebr and floor boarding, treat with plenty of creosote before laying on base as youll never be able to do it again, dont forget guttering to drain water off roof into a tub etc,for reuse.
Deccking boards arent waterpoof as there is no tounge and grove joint.
Roof secured down with builders band, doors opening inwards are a pain on a small shed as they take up space in the swing open.
Double glazed window from window supplier they have loads of old wooden ones and some brand new made the wrong sizes going cheap, dont forget a curtain or flap on the inside so people cant look in when its dark and the light is on.
Bars on wiondow, reinforce frame around window and door.
Drop down table, make as a tray with folding legs built into underside of tray, preferable with locators setonto floor or metal dowels in base of legs, hinge to wall.Posted 4 years ago
The anchor is what really protects things.
No the outer shed stops people getting in its so easy to cut a bike frame with a hacksaw or pipe cutter to remove it from a ground anchor, and youre hidden and dry once in the shed, if you make it as hard as possible to get into a shed the better, detterance is better than anything.Posted 4 years agotonSubscriber
project….that I what I want to do…stop em getting in in the 1st place.
the double door idea came from a mate. inner door is in a proper frame with a mortice and padlocks top and bottom, also fitted with a bar that goes through the outer door when it is shut, with a big warehouse padlock on it, and padlock top and bottom.
over built is what I want.Posted 4 years ago
Presuming someone knows your bike is there and they’ve targeted it, a wooden shell will take them seconds to get through. A good shed shields it from dodgy eyes and I’m not saying it’s worthless but if someone wants to remove your bike intact, it’s the serious ironmongery that slows them down.Posted 4 years agomuppetWranglerMember
No the outer shed stops people getting in its so easy to cut a bike frame with a hacksaw or pipe cutter to remove it from a ground anchor, and youre hidden and dry once in the shed, if you make it as hard as possible to get into a shed the better, detterance is better than anything.
This. Got to make each step as awkward as possible. Starts with the making the garden difficult to get in to, then the shed, then the bikes hard to remove once inside the shed.Posted 4 years ago
Good old steel inner gate/door, find on demolition sites of old shops and factories.
Mortice locks and hinge bolts are good as having lots of padlocks on a door shows from a distance there is good stuff behind the door.
Baby alarm will pick up sound and relay to house if near by, also covert cctv, relatively cheap.Posted 4 years agotonSubscriber
need some advice re building a secure shed/bike store.
got a basic idea in my head, which is galvanised steel bike anchor concreted into the ground, then a 8ft x 6ft x 7ft shed with a sloping roof built around the anchor point.
I was thinking of a frame made from 4” x 4” timber with a marine ply inner skin and a external skin of treated decking boards.
I want to fit a inner door that opens in, and a outer door to open out. and if possible a window, with a drop down/lift up window cover that will work as a bench when lowered.
any pointers in any flaws in my plan will be greatly welcomed.Posted 4 years agoyorkycslMember
I had the local scroates try & break in to the shed, thick sods no bikes in there until Fort Knox was built….
Internall walls are foundation blocks not hollow breeze block then a outer brick skin to look smart, No windows… why let the low lifes see whats inside huh ….. then a pan tiled roof under which is marine grade ply 12mm thick screwed to the roof trusses so they can’t get in through the roof as has happend to friends.
Then after much searching on the web i found a Door manufacturer specialising in steel security doors,they supply them to Elecetrical sub stations & Hi security buildings, ok it was very expensive but has 4 17mm dead bolts that go 30mm into the frame in the middle then 2 more top & bottom, then on the hinge side there’s welded bolts of the same dia that go into holes in the frame so thats both sides of the door protected all housed ina 4 inch deep steel frame.
There’s a anti jemmy lip on the door full length & the frame is bolted with hardened 6mm x 120mm bolts through the frame & into the brick & block work.
The lock is all stainless & a double locking thing with a key that i’ve never seen the like of before, 600 for the door alone, check out Bradbury Security’s web site, then it’s fully lit up internally strip lights power sockets & finally a PIR so when armed you have a short duration to enter a 4 digit code or a sound bomb goes of & wakes up the whole area…… 18ft x 10ft on solid concrete floor with 50mm of kingspan in the concrete to keep it nice & warm
Now i know if you’ve read this you’l be thinking blooming heck.. cost etc but theres a lot of gear in there & i want it protected 5k to build it but i’m very happy.Posted 4 years ago
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