Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)
  • Shed base (how boring!)
  • joebristol
    Full Member

    So I’ve now got sign off for a shed – reckon I can fit in a 7’x4’ – front to back can’t be any deeper than 4’ otherwise her royalty will see it out of the window – whereas it’ll be tucked away if kept shallow. Looking to get a Pent shiplap one as that should be better quality than the cheaply overlap ones – it’s just for storage – although this frees up half the garage to make it more of a bike workshop 😝

    My question is what support the shed would need underneath. It looks like it has an osb floor with tantalised bearers – they have an optional timber frame you get get to go underneath that basically just has metal spikes to go in the ground and seems a bodge / very expensive for what it is at £70.

    I’ve got some concrete blocks under the 6×4 greenhouse that’s making way for the shed – if I get a few more and make a perimeter of those – am I best to fill it with concrete (prob quite a lot of work) or could I get away with some more concrete blocks in lines to support the bearers (just with black weed matting underneath to stop weeds etc)?

    granny_ring
    Full Member

    There’s been a few shed builds lately on here have you done a search?

    nickjb
    Free Member

    A few well placed concrete blocks will be fine for a shed that size. You don’t even need a full perimeter but if you have enough you might as well.

    joebristol
    Full Member

    Cool thanks – will go for a full perimeter then as I’ve probably got almost enough to do that already.

    Not as exciting as some of the huge sheds people have built on here – but effectively it’ll have the same result that I can dedicate more room in the garage to bikes.

    Only downside is the shed is going to cost basically as much as a new XT groupset I’m toying with going for….

    dangeourbrain
    Free Member

    You don’t even need a full perimeter but if you have enough you might as well.

    If I were you I’d not go for a perimeter but spaced as evenly as possible across the base like a chess board if possible. Not sure it’s a better, or even good solution but in my head will distribute your weight better than an unsupported centre with full surround.

    joebristol
    Full Member

    I see what you’re saying – I was thinking a full perimeter with some other blocks in a couple of rows across the middle. Then between them will be weed control mat with mostly pea gravel (as I have some of that in the soon to be demised greenhouse).

    I’ve pegged out the area and pretty sure I’m now going to go with a 7’x4’ pent shed with no windows and put up some shelves in it on one side to maximise storage space. I don’t think I’ll fit the lawnmower in as well as all the kids toys and garden furniture but will give it my best shot!

    dcwhite1984
    Free Member

    If you want to keep costs down you can always build a timber frame and pour the concrete into that, once it is set then remove the timber and voila you have a good shed base.

    When i did mine i dug it out to a decent depth laid down some MOT 1 Sub base, compacted and then laid a 50mm deep concrete base on that. probably a bit overkill but looks tidy and will probably outlast me.

    nickjb
    Free Member

    If you want to keep costs down you can always build a timber frame and pour the concrete into that, once it is set then remove the timber and voila you have a good shed base.

    How would that be cheaper than using a few old concrete block that he already has?

    Its just a 4 foot shed. A few well placed blocks will easity do it. You could just sit it on a couple of old pallets and it would be fine. It really doesn’t need much, just something to stop the bearers sitting on the soil/damp. My small shed is on old, partly broken, paving slabs (neat bits round the edge, broken bits in the middle).

    toby1
    Full Member

    Not technically that boring, I have a shed that’ll probably only last another year and then I’ll need some sort of base for the replacement so I needed to see this thread you see 🙂

    joebristol
    Full Member

    Yeah the pouring of concrete is definitely more expensive and time consuming. If it was a bigger shed to do turbo training in or something like that I’d probably go that route. Once it’s full I probably won’t even have room to walk in the shed as it’s only 4’ deep. Getting one with double doors on the front so you effectively open it as a cupboard!

    Planning to dig the blocks into the ground so they just sit an inch or 2 proud of the ground so the shed has room for air to circulate under it / doesn’t touch the soil. With the greenhouse I put a dry sand / cement mix between the blocks so they didn’t shift about. I may do the same with this one as that seemed to work really well.

    joebristol
    Full Member

    @toby1 I’ll take some pictures of what I’ve bodged together for a base once I’ve done it. May start dismantling the green house to liberate the gravel and blocks this weekend if it’s not pouring with rain all weekend.

    Just need to get the go ahead on size from the wife (pegged out where it’ll go at lunchtime as apparently 6×5 stuck out too far from the fence – so shallower but longer is what I’m going for) and then I’ll order the shed.

    Planning to see how good it is once built and paint it grey to match the bbq shelter that I built in the opposite corner of the garden. If it’s a bit flaky inside I might ply line it with 3mm marine ply to keep more spiders out – but it looks ok from the online pictures.

    dcwhite1984
    Free Member

    How would that be cheaper than using a few old concrete block that he already has?

    Think i mis-read the original post, i thought he was on about doing a full block perimeter which would have been concreted in, then the perimeter filled with concrete itself, therefore you would save on the full block perimeter and the concrete that the blocks would be set on.

    Obviously the cheapest route is to lay the existing blocks on the floor ensuring level and jobs a good un.

    joebristol
    Full Member

    Ah yes – that figures. Shuttering for concrete to be poured into would be cheaper than concrete blocks then pouring concrete.

    Nothing as elaborate as that for this small ish shed. Planning to dig the concrete blocks in and use a dry sand / cement mix between them I think. That’s what I did with the greenhouse and it was quick / easy and has been fine. I can’t remember how I levelled the blocks – maybe I used sand underneath them. Will find out this weekend when I start dismantling it all.

    dcwhite1984
    Free Member

    Ah yes – that figures. Shuttering for concrete to be poured into would be cheaper than concrete blocks then pouring concrete.

    Nothing as elaborate as that for this small ish shed. Planning to dig the concrete blocks in and use a dry sand / cement mix between them I think. That’s what I did with the greenhouse and it was quick / easy and has been fine. I can’t remember how I levelled the blocks – maybe I used sand underneath them. Will find out this weekend when I start dismantling it all.

    Sounds like a good plan to keep it simple.
    I’ve been told numerous times since ive done mine that i went well above and beyond what was needed, but its done now and hopefully i’ll never have to move 🙂

    4130s0ul
    Free Member

    Joe, if you factor in a new patio you won’t have to worry about the dimensions of the shed…or permission!

    joebristol
    Full Member

    Joe, if you factor in a new patio you won’t have to worry about the dimensions of the shed…or permission!

    Que?! New patio?!

    hamishthecat
    Free Member

    Que?! New patio?!

    I’m sure it won’t come to that. 😏

Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)

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