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  • Seized Nipples?
  • Richie_B
    Full Member

    Not as exciting as it sounds.

    Do any of you wheel builders have any tips? Got a pair of Campag Proton wheels I can get them true but approx half the nipples are seized. Also is there a way of avoiding them re-seizing? They are on my training :oops:/commuting bike so they get the worst of the weather

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    there is no secret to freeing them off. Are they alloy?

    Replace with greased brass nipples.

    Junkyard
    Free Member

    the secret is to oil them when you build the wheel not a lot you can do now pentrating fluid/soak wheel in vat of engine oil ?????

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    cynic-al
    Free Member

    oil can dry out. Grease is better.

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    Please tell me just how oil ‘dries out’?
    It doesn’t evaporate like water you know!

    Light oil during building is recommended by Roger Musson in his Wheelpro book. I work to that, myself.
    🙂

    Junkyard
    Free Member

    As do I pp

    When a liquid evaporates, its molecules must separate themselves from their attachment with others in the liquid and then move off into the air space above. The molecules in some kinds of liquids, like oil for example, are rather large and well-tangled up and attached to each other. This means that evaporation, if it occurs at all, is very slow. That is why cooking oil, even though sometimes heated to a very high temperature, does not evaporate to an appreciable extent.

    Reluctant
    Free Member

    Oil when building, linseed is good. But any old oil is ok, the thread and the nipple bed/eyelet of the rim. Brass is the only way. Alloy nips are ok for race wheels that you want for a season, but if building a pair to last, sod the minute weight saving and go for good old fashioned, reliable brass.
    I’ve given up on seized nips on lots of wheels, cut em out and start again. De-tension the wheel as much as poss before cutting spokes. That way you minimise the risk of the rim going “ping”.
    I guess what we’ve got here is bi-metalic corrorion, same as when an alloy post siezes into a steel frame. So maybe you could apply same methods? Saturated solution of caustic soda dropped onto nipple threads – careful now! Might help with an overnight soak. Or apply heat, can sometimes break down the corrosion. Very localised heat with one of those camping lighters maybe? (like a mini blowtorch)
    Good luck and mind your fingers!

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    I’ve built and serviced hundreds of wheels many of which have been used on salted winter roads. In my experience greased nipples do not seize as easily as oiled ones.

    coffeeking
    Free Member

    Oils tend to migrate away from the nipple a little due to the wheel rotation and capiliary effect, grease would work better technically due to its more viscous nature but practically I’m not sure the difference would be noticeable.
    <thinks to self>
    Wonder if wax would work? Waterproof, fairly solid, lubricant.
    </tts>

    coatesy
    Free Member

    A decent size soldering iron (not a piddly little one, something about 80w)with a flat bit held against the nipple for a minute will usually expand it enough to undo, a light coat of copperslip before assembly works wonders.

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