Seatube reaming….. any ideas for a bodge?

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  • Seatube reaming….. any ideas for a bodge?
  • STATO
    Member

    Mount the stick in a drill, use fine paper.

    Premier Icon nickjb
    Subscriber

    Flap wheel in a drill

    Premier Icon fadda
    Subscriber

    Flapper wheel in a drill works well, but you may have to do a mini-bodge to get more than a couple of inches in…

    Edit: damn your fingers, nickjb – and with a pic, too!

    STATO
    Member

    If your going out your way to buy a flapper wheel and then create some sort of sturdy extension to mount it so it can go in far enough… may as well go and get a bike shop to do it.

    Premier Icon wwaswas
    Subscriber

    I’d go the lbs and let them do it with a reamer

    wet and dry on a broom handle will clean it a bit but if there’s any significant lumps it’ll take a while and you may end up with an uneven seat tube.

    clubber
    Member

    You can bodge a ream with an old seatpost but I wouldn’t do it on a decent frame – you define what decent is.

    Basically, get a cheap seatpost of the right size and using a hacksaw or a file cut teeth into the end – basically making the end of the post pointy. Then just turn it slowly in the frame to clear out the ‘fur’.

    batfink
    Member

    thanks for the replies chaps….. I took it to my LBS to get faced, and it took me a while to explain to them what that was, and I had to wait while they ordered the tool 😯

    Looking to do this tonight, so may go the way of a flappy drill – screwfix is on the way home.

    Watch out for a later post: “help – how to remove flapper wheel from seat tube!”

    Premier Icon wwaswas
    Subscriber

    I had to wait while they ordered the tool

    I guess that’s a plus and a minus;

    minus – they didn’t have one already

    plus – they were prepared to invest in a tool for what’s clearly not a job they do very often…

    batfink
    Member

    I’m building-up a charge duster that I bought on here a while ago. So far so good – really happy with the powdercoating from Triple S.

    However, trying to fit the seat-post (27.2) last night, I couldn’t get more than a few inches into the frame before it wouldn’t go any further. I didn’t gt it stuck – but I fear it would have if I’d have tried to push it further.

    I think the frame may have previously had a seat-post stuck in it, and as a result the inside of the seat tube is a bit “furred-up”. Any ideas about how to address this?

    my current plan involves a bit of wet-and-dry paper on a stick….. anyone got any better ideas?

    Ta

    batfink
    Member

    Yeah: I’m not expecting them to have a reaming kit!

    Anyway – I’m happy to have a go myself…. whats the worst that could happen?!?

    Premier Icon wwaswas
    Subscriber

    you **** up a frame that woudl have been fine had the right tool for the job been used 😉

    Premier Icon bigblackshed
    Subscriber

    wwaswas – Member
    I had to wait while they ordered the tool

    I guess that’s a plus and a minus;

    minus – they didn’t have one already

    plus – they were prepared to invest in a tool for what’s clearly not a job they do very often…

    batfink – Member

    it took me a while to explain to them what that was,

    Second quote = “The LBS didn’t have a clue” = “Go somewhere else or DIY”

    batfink
    Member

    Well….. who knew that there was a website called ”the polishing shop”?

    30mm flap wheel (240 grit) and a 200mm shaft for £4.71… worth a punt!

    you **** up a frame

    yeah yeah yeah….. I’ll be gentle with her, I promise 😀

    Murray
    Member

    Buy the right tool?

    bencooper
    Member

    A flex hone is what you probably want – a bit like a flap wheel but specifically designed for cleaning up inside tubes so it’s a lot longer…

    batfink
    Member

    Buy the right tool?

    Thats just the handle! I would need to by the handle (your link) for £36, then the matching reamer – also £36. Total £72. Lets not also mention that the 27.2 reamer is out of stock 🙄

    bencooper
    Member

    Reamer a very bad idea unless you really know what you’re doing – 0.1mm too big, and you’ll need a new seatpost. If it’s just crud in there, then the flex hone is the way to go – that’s what I always use on frames that come back from the powdercoaters.

    messiah
    Member

    I’ve done the broom handle and emery cloth trick on a few frames and it works a treat. A scotchbrite pad is also a pretty useful addition, as is a round file if there are any big lumps to take out.

    Slowly slowly catchy monkey etc etc.

    batfink
    Member

    Good tip Ben, thanks. Is this what you mean Flex Hone?

    Comes with a min order of 2…. anyone interested in one?

    bencooper
    Member

    That’s the beastie, yes 😉

    Maybe your LBS could do with one?

    imp999
    Member

    It isn’t something silly like you need a 27mm seat tube is it?
    Home made reamer out of a correct size seatpost with 4 slots cut up it(burrs removed) is my favourite.
    The flapper wheel will take off material from places that are already to size as well as the under-size areas.

    batfink
    Member

    It isn’t something silly like you need a 27mm seat tube is it?

    nah, it defo takes a 27.2…. and it goes in a few inches then steadily gets jammed. When I got the frame it looks like it’d had a post stuck in it previously, so wouldn’t be suprised if it was a but furred-up (it’s a steel frame).

    I’ve cheaped-out and gone for the flap wheel! Will be super-gentle with it…… extremely low rpm for a few seconds only. Will report back in a few days

Viewing 22 posts - 1 through 22 (of 22 total)

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