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  • Seat Altea – central locking dying
  • munkster
    Free Member

    OK guys – Seat Altea 2006; the central locking only unlocks one door with the fob, battery in fob fine. I’ve got an OBD2 reader and Torque app says there are no fault codes. Before I take it to the garage (who I presume will charge me to plug it into a code reader) is there anything I’m missing here with the reader myself? I’ve checked fuses and all seems fine there too.

    thanks!

    falkirk-mark
    Full Member

    Has it got a setting only to unlock the drivers door only, my daughters Clio you have to click twice for all doors to open. Plus if central locking is getting the signal (from key) then all doors should work.

    munkster
    Free Member

    Has it got a setting only to unlock the drivers door only, my daughters Clio you have to click twice for all doors to open. Plus if central locking is getting the signal (from key) then all doors should work.

    By “it” do you mean the car itself? Not to my knowledge*. As it stands the only door that opens with the keyfob is the rear driver’s side door. And yes, all doors *should* work… 😉 …but they do not. Been like it a while but really need to sort it, not least because I need to activate child lock on one of the rear doors, and on one of them that will mean (as it stands) that if I do, that door will *never* get unlocked ever again by conventional means!

    *ah, edit: I see what you mean, and yes, there are two clicks usually to unlock driver’s and then all doors. No matter how many presses, the same result.

    johnw1984
    Free Member

    My Altea Freetrack did this. It turned out to be a door control module that needed replacing. It ended up costing me about £350 ish just under 3 years ago.

    flannol
    Free Member

    Not really adding much usefulness to the convo but all of my vw cars have had door locking (actuation) problems

    munkster
    Free Member

    Yeah, had two Skodas prior to this and not had great experiences with the electrics 😟

    nuke
    Full Member

    My Yeti had problems with the looms in the front doors (common failure apparently)….over time, through opening & closing the front doors the wires all got stripped or snapped, visible when you pulled the gaiter back between door and chassis. It also caused the rear door windows/locks to fail to work. Bought the looms on line and replaced them myself, wasnt too hard and Im no expert

    munkster
    Free Member

    Sounds interesting nuke. I’ll look into that thanks.

    dannyh
    Free Member

    I’ve got exactly the same issue on a crappy old Altea. The little motor bits that do the doing are prohibitively expensive so I’m just left with a car where it is unusual if >2 doors don’t have to be opened from the inside. But at least it is now like the General Lee in one way, at least…

    Joking aside, it is crap old car, but I like crap old cars because they don’t need looking after too much.

    matt_outandabout
    Full Member

    Passat (2000) and Touran (2005), both had multiple door modules fail.
    They cost £280 new or £80 from scrapper per module. Plus of course ripping the door apart and breaking the stoopid plastic clips that VW use everywhere.

    munkster
    Free Member

    @dannyh yeah haha, painting the Confederate Flag on the roof is maybe not the best move though. If we didn’t have small person in back requiring child locks being enabled I would just make do with the rubbish situation, but as it stands it’s pretty important given we’re moving to a less constraining chair at some stage. I am getting more and more interested in the self-fix route here, so thanks all.

    CountZero
    Full Member

    I had two door locks fail on my old Octavia, about £160 to fix each time, and an MOT fail, so essential if you want to keep using the car.

    munkster
    Free Member

    It’s an MOT fail?? I’m *pretty* sure this has been like this for a long long time and it’s not failed an MOT on this… Maybe it behaved itself for the tester, but I doubt it!

    idiotdogbrain
    Free Member

    Torque/OBD2 won’t necessarily pick up CL or CANBUS issues – a proper VCDS scan will though. My A3 has a broken CANBUS wire somewhere (as mentioned, I’m suspecting the body-to-door loom, which is a common but easy fix) but everything still works. Get it scanned if you can, it could save you chasing your tail swapping parts out.

    Edit: you can get clone VCDS cables/software for about £55 which, if you own VAG group cars, is well worth it – if you have no moral objections to hooky software, that is.

    bensongd
    Free Member

    You don’t have to get dodgy cloned software. A £5 kkl cable of ebay, usually blue with odb to USB connection. Then download the free version of vcds lite from Rosstech, they do a full paid for version but try the free one first. It enabled me to fix various air bag faults and turn the warning lights off.

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)

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