Had my Spark WC about a year now and the seat stay/rocker bush is worn giving a couple of mm fore/aft play. I’d like to replace all the bearings and bushes but not sure about doing it my self. Can anyone point me to the right tools for the job and also to the right service kit? Probably will let my lbs do it but at least try and save them the time of locating the kit.

I made some notes when doing my Spark https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/scott-spark-workshop-manual/ . Pretty easy to do at home.

@sl2000, I did have a good look at that post but wasn’t sure if the 2017 model refered to is the same as the 2019. Would you know? Be great if it is!

Parts list here: https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott-parts-finder-spark-i172. ‘262630 Swingarm Repair Kit For 100mm Travel Spark RC’ has been the same since 2017. It’s different to my non-RC Spark but they’ll be the same procedure surely?

They are the same

Ah great! Thanks for your help chaps.

V1 etched on your link bolt is bushings. V2 if the spark followed the genius means bearings.
If new igua bushes don’t solve then the small amount of play might need to be taken out with a shim/tuning washer.

Do you still have to flex the swing arm to get it out of the frame? Was quiet weird bending it to get the bearings out…

I had to replace my swing arm as I ripped the dropout off…

[url=https://flic.kr/p/nYHjUt]Scott Spark mid chainstay transplant[/url] by Ben Freeman, on Flickr

Bending it? Nope I assume you drifted the axle out of the main pivot before removing the chainstays though. It did pinch the bearing covers a little though at the main pivot and I remember having to make sure I was properly aligned and ease it on. Same with my repainted genius actually from a little too much paint build up.

The only tricky thing about disassembly/reassembly on the current bikes is having a 3rd hand to keep the bearing inner race spacers in the right place without them falling off and bouncing into oblivion. Even when sticking them to the bearings with grease, I still end up using some method of “chingrip” to keep something in the right place.

Bending it? Nope I assume you drifted the axle out of the main pivot before removing the chainstays though.

On mine you flex it around the chain stay bridge to widen the end at the BB so it can lift off the bearings. Quite scary, you press the chain stays together at the axle end praying it doesn’t snap…

Weird. The split main pivot sleeves were designed to take out the tolerance and make lateral adjustments. The main pivot “axle/bolt” is to preload the split sleeves against the inner race (bearing covers) and the pinch bolts ultimately do the job of holding the swingarm to the main pivot.
I found it useful to have the entire rear traingle assembled with the main pivot preloaded to allow the chainstay to drift on the split sleves find it’s “aligned” position as you move the rear axle through the wheel path before doing up the pinch bolts.
I guess your tight tolerancing didn’t allow for anything beyond “squeeze it in”

Flexing the seat stays though to get them into the chainstays..I’m with you on that!