My Reverb sags about 1cm when I sit on it. Its not the end of the world as I have raised the saddle 1cm to compensate. It is however annoying and I am concerned if I keep on using it like this then I might knacker it completely.

I have checked the pressure and it’s fine and wondered if a bleed and/or home rebuild is worth trying or whether this is likely to require someone with more technical nous to take a look. Unfortunately although its not a year old it is second hand so its not a warranty job.

mine does this too!

It is a warranty job, although you’re bang out of luck if its s/hand I guess. Earl if you can send it back via your shop, cubist its a service I am afraid.

Yep, warranty job. Mine did the same and was replaced by CRC.

If it was not 2nd hand then yeah its a warranty claim and you will get a new one. I do not know why though as a full service and replacement of tired seals will fix the problem. Mine did this (stealth over 2 years old) and I did a full strip down and rebuild and problem was sorted. There are detailed instuctions on the SRAM website on how to do it. Didn’t take too long either, maybe a couple of hours. Would be quicker next time now I know what I am doing.

It’s an hour or so’s job to do a full strip & rebuild with new seals.
For some reason they seem to replace them under warranty rather than fix them.

If it’s out of warranty, not a major task, just might cost you £50

Bit of a hi-jack but when checking the air pressure in the Reverb (250psi) is it whilst its up or down?

I’m 100% convinced its up, but after having a few beers last night and the fact its a CBA Monday, it’s got me thinking

Cheers

They replace them under warranty as it is cheaper for them to do this than to pay the hour or so labour plus parts to rebuild. Simples.

Mine did this, but my LBS gave it a rebuild and fixed the problem.

My brand new Reverb stealth B1, the supposed model with new better internals has started to sag after only 4 rides, need to take it back in for warranty. I have a much older reverb that does exactly the same thing. Fed up with them to be fair. I spent more on the newer model as it was touted as being more reliable.

Yes, they would replace this under warranty if not 2nd hand.

and yes russyh, the B1 does not appear to be any better than the original in this respect. I have just had a B1 replaced under warranty for same reason. It was in turn a warranty replacement for older version which suffered same problem.

By contrast, I’ve also got an original (silver collar) non-stealth one which is now way out of warranty. When that one eventually failed, a rebuild sorted it and it’s been faultless for over a year since.

OK so I am planning on getting the Epic Bleed Kit and this seal kit is that the right kit for a rebuild?

Any age limitations on that warranty (ie is 2011, never serviced pushing it)?

Any age limitations on that warranty (ie is 2011, never serviced pushing it)?

2 years from purchase, isn’t it?

OK so I am planning on getting the Epic Bleed Kit and this seal kit is that the right kit for a rebuild?

I think that seal kit will just about get you there, but it doesn’t include a new main piston seal (which *I* think is related to the sagging problem) – seems a shame to go to the trouble of dismantling it and not do the full monty, but YMMV. You may be able to get a local bearing factor to match the piston seal (I would put the original back rather than use “one that looks right” from Screwfix, etc.). IIRC the piston and IFP seals are in the full service kit (circa £50?). There is conflicting information on the internet about what size these O-rings are (some say metric, some say imperial. Both cannot be right).

There are specific SRAM tools for setting the IFP height and bleeding / setting the oil level which you may decide you need, but I don’t believe they are essential once you have figured out what they are designed to achieve (the IFP height is not terribly critical, IMHO). I found this very useful.

Be very careful as you undo the inner seal head – the air that is causing the sagging is bottled up behind the main piston and/or the IFP, both of which are held in by the inner seal head and could still be at 100PSI+ (there’s no way of safely bleeding the air out AFAIK).

Setting the IFP height IS critical-if you want the post to work properly & achieve full drop again.
Not difficult, just a bit time consuming the first few times & can be a bit messy.
Yes, do be aware of the inner seal head that & poppet valve that might try & take your head off if air is trapped.

hijack —
how does everyone pump up the reverb without losing air when you remove the pump?

at 250, even the shorted time unscrewing the pump head results in a lot of airloss?

Setting the IFP height IS critical-if you want the post to work properly & achieve full drop again.

Yes, it is critical to do it, but the actual height *isn’t* that critical – The IFP only has ~2/3rds the travel of the main piston, so as long as it’s got room to do this, it’ll work fine. A few mm either way makes no difference.

poppet valve that might try & take your head off if air is trapped.

Best undo the inner seal head to release the pressure *before* touching the poppet valve (IMHO), or it will come out like a bullet.

(For air pressure: Shock pump.)

@alcolepone – Probably just air loss from the pump barrel & hose.

What do they do with the hundreds of failed ones though??