So having now rounded 2 maxle heads what are other folks using as replacement if not Maxle? Looked at Nukeproof ones but are they made of cheese? Yes, aware, probably torqued up too tight and Draper hex wrenches probably shite,but please be gentle 😉. TIA

Edit. Fits 170mm Rockshox Lyrik on Vitus Sommet

Get a qr one so you don’t have to use an Allen key or get better allen keys. Wera hex plus should stop you rounding them and are reasonably priced

I had the same with a 36 one, went for a Wolftooth replacement. Been grand thus far (18mth+)

Burgtec will take a 6mm one end, and 8mm the other

TBH, if you’re rounding them often, then I’d also recommend a better quality hex tool, clean and greased threads and maybe borrow a torque wrench to get a better understanding of how much force is needed when tightening

Get a needle file, and open them out to 8mm, i’ve save quite a few by doing this.

Burgtec will take a 6mm one end, and 8mm the other

Cant recall if they’re the same or different each end but my Brand-X one has a backup hex socket at the other end too.

I keep meaning to buy a matching one for the rear of my Scandal as one day the 8mm OEM one is going to bite me in the ass on a ride.

and maybe borrow a torque wrench to get a better understanding of how much force is needed when tightening

And this, 10Nm is barely tight.

A lot of axles only have a stubby ~60mm lever that you tighten it with, if you’re wrenching it tight, even with the smallest of multi-tools you may well be going far too hard.

Thanks all. Burgtec axle ordered cos its red 😳
Wera hex keys purchased and can confirm they’re very good.
Torque wrench acquired.
Cheers all.

I got a blue Burgtec to replace my Maxle, they are a tad heavier but reassuringly so and a well made nice bit of kit, I might get a rear one just to colour match, I always use a torque wrench to 10/12nm and never had problems with rounding off axles, make a note of where the writing on the axle head lines up so you don’t overtighten out on the trails.

Pretty sure on my Maxle I can insert the Allen key to the hilt. It’s gotta be impossible to round it if you’re doing that. Basically: make sure you’re engaging the hex key as muchss as possible.

Sounds like you’ve done all the right stuff! Only extra thing I would say is if you use thread locker on the threads then you can use the minimum torque without fear of it coming loose, and it also forms a barrier to prevent any kind of chemical bond forming. I struggled with cleat bolts for years before realising this.

Only extra thing I would say is if you use thread locker on the threads then you can use the minimum torque without fear of it coming loose, and it also forms a barrier to prevent any kind of chemical bond forming.

For something that is meant to be to be undone, and an OP that has clearly overtightened their previous Maxels, that’s a staggeringly daft suggestion, here apply something that holds the thread in place!

The best bet is as suggested above, clean and grease the threads regularly, use decent Allen keys and don’t take the totally ham-fisted tighter is better approach.

Cleat bolts are meant to come out once, when you replace them cleats after many miles / years of use, either way copper slip is perfect for them and also they should only be done to 5-6Nm, which is naff all and half wat a maxle should be done up to.

A bit of grease on the threads and a blast of silicon spray on the rest of the axle. Wouldn’t dream of using threadlock.

Thanks again all 👍🏻