Rockshox Revelation 2010 U-Turn service advice

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  • Rockshox Revelation 2010 U-Turn service advice
  • dvatcmark

    Hi folks
    I’m in the process of stripping down & rebuilding a 2010 Rockshox Revelation U-turn version for a mate coz it keeps blowing the wiper seal out and loosing positive pressure. So I’m guessing one of the internal O-rings has gone, however I’m having a few problems as the fork seems to be different internally to the 2010 technical manual on the Sram website.

    I’ve stripped RS forks loads of times before, but never a U-turn one, so in a very un-manly fashion I decided to follow the manual rather than just have a go at taking them to bits!

    Everything came to bits fine, but now on the re-build the choke and travel adjuster is different to the photos as the choke has no O-rings and the travel adjuster has holes drilled in the sides and the steps in the manual for re-build don’t work as for example it tells me to assemble the u-turn assembly then add pressure to the positive chamber to test all seals. This is impossible due to the holes in the travel adjuster.

    Anybody else had an experience like this, or know of a different service manual for the revelation?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Premier Icon bigjim

    I’ve done my u-turns and i think you have made a booboo. I always replace one o ring a time and do things methodically rather than take it all to bits at once.

    Premier Icon Stoner

    bit of a resurrection.

    mark, Ive had exactly the same problem servicing/fixing a mate’s set of 2010 OEM dual air uturn 120-150mm revs. The upper air assembly has holes in the pos air valve that means you cant “test pos spring” until the whole air assembly is sealed in the upper leg, not whilst it is out of the leg. Also, contrary to the instructions, you cant turn the air spring upside down and add 6ml of oil as it just falls out of the holes in the valve assembly.

    I think there’s a variant dual air uturn that is not consistent with the published guides. It’s not a matter of seals but design difference.

    In the end I refitted the lower air assembly (pos head, top bump and bottom head on the shaft) to the upper air assembly tube and then poured the oil through the holes in the pos valve assembly so that at least there was some lube in the spring. Then reinstall the air spring in the upper leg as per the guide, BUT then fit the retaining lower block and spring washer which is actually omitted from the instructions. Fork is working fine, pressures are stable in the pos & neg, no spiking and smooth stroke.

    Dont know if someone with intimate knowlegde (SRAM? Locotuning? TFT) is on here can confirm why there’s this difference in the manual from soome versions of the forks?


    Sorry to revive and high-jack an old thread, but the topic is perfect!

    I’m servicing my RS U-turn Air’s, (Pikes not Rev’s but same internals) having only ever done lower leg and stanchion seal kit services before.

    I’ve got the lower air assembly out of the air tube and the instructions are telling me to rubber mallet the upper air assembly and U-turn plastic choke down though the air tube. (stage 13-14 on the 2011 manual or 18-19 on the 2006 manual)

    Now I’ve been whacking this for a while and progressively harder, it’s not budging!

    Am I doing something wrong? Is it normally this tight? should I just keep whacking it?

    Any advice would be appreciated!

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