Rockshox lyrik setup

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  • Rockshox lyrik setup
  • robhughes
    Member

    Use them with Grrrrr but do make sure the spring is right for your weight.
    They’ll be fine… ๐Ÿ˜‰

    carlphillips
    Member

    My mates set are very much like that, ramp up really quickly, he’s never been able to sort it out.,

    snaps
    Member

    How heavy are you & what colour paint is on the spring?
    Not much you can do if the spring is wrong.

    Warrenpfo
    Member

    Not my writing but it may help

    Rockshox Lyrik Coil U-Turn Guide for Dummies

    INTRO

    First off, I ride a Transition Covert. I’m 6’3″ and weigh 205lbs geared up. I don’t do any big drops but do ride rocky, southern California, technical terrain. I’m basically writing this so other people won’t have to search through thread after thread like I did to find the information they need.

    When the fork arrived, I noticed that the 160mm black mark wasn’t lined up with the wiper seal. This is normal. I figured that when Rockshox made the marks, they didn’t take into account the wiper seal which is a couple millimeters wide. You will still get the full 160mm of travel.

    According to the spring guide from Rockshox, I needed a firm spring. My sag with the stock (medium) spring and both high speed and low speed compression fully counterclockwise is approximately 34mm. This is 22% of the full travel. The spring guide must have recommended one spring higher than normal since I’m at the top end of the Firm spring limit.

    THE RIDE

    This fork is a blast to ride! I took it to my local “aggressive XC” trail and coming from a Fox Float 130 RL, this fork feels way more stiff and plush. It felt like it just rolled over everything! I could take drops of about 3.5ft without coming close to bottoming. Small bump sensitivity was excellent as well.

    Reducing the travel for climbing is easy, just twist the U-turn knob. You might want to set it the way you want well ahead of a long climb because it does take a bit of effort to twist the knob. I found that I like to keep it around 140mm for just general riding, dropping it to 120 for the climb and topping it out at 160 for descents. According to the manual, spring rate is supposed to increase when you shorten the travel. If it does, I can barely tell.

    TUNING

    Fork tuning is something I found that you can’t learn by reading about it. I found the best way to find which settings you need is to set the rebound slow enough that the fork won’t kick back, then ride with the high speed and low speed compression knobs fully counterclockwise for a little bit, then ride again with them fully clockwise. This way you can tell what each one actually does. Once you do that, then you’re ready to tune.

    High speed controls bottom out and square edged hits, however, you will have to compromise if you go either way. Increasing high speed compression will prevent bottoming out, but the ride will be harsh. Reducing high speed compression will make the fork feel more plush on the square edged hits, but will cause the fork to bottom out. The idea is to tweak to fit your riding style and terrain. To tune high speed compression, start with the knob in the middle, ride, and adjust as necessary. If your bottoming out your fork with the high speed compression knob fully clockwise you need a stiffer spring. Keep in mind that this fork isn’t very progressive so you must compromise.

    Low speed compression is just as easy to tune as high speed. Higher compression means less pedal feedback (bob) and brake dive. Lower compression means better small bump sensitivity. Find a good medium that will both reduce user feedback while still maintaining small bump sensitivity.

    CHANGING SPRINGS

    Changing springs is very easy once you’ve figured out how to do it. Place the bike so the fork is horizontal. You don’t want any oil to leak out the bottom. Remove the U-turn knob being careful as there are 3 bb size bearings and 3 small springs inside that will pop out. I like to do this on my back porch with towels on the ground so the springs and bearings don’t go bouncing everywhere. Now don’t just undo the bottom screw and top cap and start yanking on the spring like I first tried to do and wonder why it won’t come out. You have to loosen the screw at the bottom of the fork about 3/4 of the way out. Then undo the top cap. Be careful as the black paint is easily scratched. Once the top cap is undone and it pops up, cover the bottom screw with a towel or something soft and hit it lightly until it loosens. Then take the screw all the way out and the spring should slide out. Lube up the new spring with grease and insert. Some twisting is required to get it to go in. Then reverse the process. Also, make sure that the gasket in the top cap doesn’t get mashed. Surprisingly, little torque is required on the top cap. You’re ready to ride.

    I installed a firm spring in my fork just to see what Rockshox was talking about when they said I needed a firm spring. My sag was about 15% at 25mm. With a firm spring installed, the ride was harsh even with compression all the way soft. It did not contour the terrain very well. Also, the U-turn knob was noticibly harder to twist and after double checking my spring installation and found everything to be fine, figured it was due to the stiffer spring. I rode the heck out of it anyway for a while to see if it needed breaking in. It didn’t get any better. If you’re into big drops and such and don’t care about a plush ride, then the firm spring may be for you. Since the highest drop I may encounter is going off a 4 or 5 foot staircase made of railroad ties and dirt, I decided to keep the medium spring.

    jk1980
    Member

    Thanks, I was going to ask how to change the spring so that’s very helpful. I’m curious to know what spring is in there, so I will follow the above and take a look

    jk1980
    Member

    I’ve just bought a 2nd hand set of coil lyriks. They feel super stiff and sturdy which is great, but they’re too hard.

    What’s interesting is they actually feel right at the beginning of the stoke for my weight, but then after about an inch they feel too hard. So ultra progressive basically. I’ve taken off all high & low speed progression.

    Does anyone know if I can do anything other than change the spring? E.g change the oil height.

    robhughes
    Member

    Iv,e gone a spring lower to get them supple.Then you can really take advantage of the MICO…

    Bagstard
    Member

    Changing the seals to Racing Bros made a real difference in mine, really supple at the begining of the stroke.

    jk1980
    Member

    Thanks for the tips. I’ve had a go on a set a few years back which felt great, so there is hope! I will attempt to take the spring out in the week to see what colour it is

    rob jackson
    Member

    bagstard +1

    Warrenpfo
    Member

    FYI the spring is not actually a colour unless its the 170mm. Rather there are small blobs of paint down one side of the spring so you might have to take it all the way out and give it a wipe with a rag to work out which one it is.

    I know this as i converted my 2 step air lyrik to a u-turn with the new RC2DH damper over the weekend and its like night and day.

    Very very happy

    duntstick
    Member

    Warrenpfo, where did you get your RC2DH damper from? Need to order the same and new mico, I’m finding I’m getting jarred at the moment giving me bad arm pump, on rocky downhills.

    cheers

    Warrenpfo
    Member

    All purchased from Mountainbikes.net

    Great service fast delivery and very good customer service. Also much cheaper than anywhere in the UK

    rob jackson
    Member

    Warren – how much rebound are you running?

    Warrenpfo
    Member

    From memory I count 25 clicks on the rebound dial and i sit at 18 from slow to fast.

    rob jackson
    Member

    same as me ๐Ÿ™‚

    jk1980
    Member

    This is an old thread, but a bit of an update/question.

    I’ve discovered that my lyriks have a red spring in them, which looks to be the correct one for my 12 stone 7 weight. I’ve also had them serviced by TF Tuned who’ve said they’re perfect internally.

    The problem I’ve got is that they just don’t feel plush enough and ramp up way too quickly, feeling harsh. I got them because I favour dh performance over weight and specifically wanted a coil fork. But they just don’t feel as good as my old marzocchi z1 drop offs for example! I know some people say run a softer spring – should I go down to the yellow or is that ridiculous with my weight?

    Or is there a better performing 160mm fork for DH stuff that would be better for me, eg bos deville? As mentioned weight is not an issue whatsoever.

    mccett
    Member

    If you’re after something that feels more like the old z1 and you have the right spring, try removing the floodgate. I thought mine were knackered on Garburn pass, following week without the floodgate was a different fork completely. Saved myself the cost of the set of 55ti’s I nearly bought to replace them. If you do this though, don’t go for a lighter spring, I put in the firm one (12stone).

    jk1980
    Member

    Interesting thanks, I’ve heard about that mod and did ask TF Tuned about it – they advised against it because it can put the seals under too much pressure, causing leaks.

    I guess I’m just after a set of forks that are plush and tackle everything from small repetitive hits to big hits. Many years ago you just picked the z1 and it worked. These days I’ve tried a 32 float which just flexed and dived everywhere, and now these lyriks which just feel too harsh. Am I asking too much?

    mccett
    Member

    Have had the gate out of mine for nearly a year and no leaks, no harm in trying it just to see the difference and as they aren’t still under warranty. Easy to do, search YouTube for an easy how to vid.

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    TF have serviced mine with the floodgate out and didn’t raise any concerns over it. Not really sure how it could cause leaks tbh, it removes an obstruction, it doesn’t create extra max flow. Mind you, I never had the issue you describe even before I removed the floodgate.

    I did have a similiar sounding issue with my Boxxers, which was worn bushings- they were binding a little as they compressed. But TF would have picked that up I’m sure.

    YMMV but I’m lighter than you and use a red spring, had a lighter one briefly and it was useless. Depends on your riding and your bike to some extent though.

    jk1980
    Member

    You’re right I think TF would have picked up on that, they said internally they’re in good shape.

    Thanks everyone for the comments, sounds like removing the floodgate is worth a go

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    Just out of curiosity, what sort of damping setup have you used? Lyrik is a weird one, its “middle” isn’t in the middle of the range, so what seems like it’ll be a good default is generally seriously overdamped.

    (it seems like you’re past that point, but, you never know!)

    bigdan6
    Member

    JK1980- what are you running your rebound at?

    Tom_W1987
    Member

    In general a weekend warrior with a lyrik needs to

    1) run a spring one softer than rock shox say

    2) check if the damper side leg has to much oil, little differences make huge changes in ride quality. You can try playing with oil levels. Though progressive damping is good if you are an aggressive rider.

    3) replace the seals with tf tuned low friction models and do a home service on them using the kit they supply.

    4) do the floodgate mod. Bear in mind you will then have to bang the damping right up to stop it from diving but there will still be less stiction in the system than before.

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    Tom_W1987 – Member

    In general a weekend warrior with a lyrik needs to

    1) run a spring one softer than rock shox say

    Never understand this one tbh, I have to run one spring higher- if I ran a supersoft as you suggest it’d bottom out if I rode off the edge of a bawhair.

    Tom_W1987
    Member

    Depends….rock shoxs springs in general are shite….I have a medium thats no different than my soft really….then ive had mediums in the past that have been very very hard.

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    Ah, that might explain it. Mind you I’ve been medium in 2 boxxers and 2 lyriks and all are in much the same ballpark. Funny old game.

    Tom_W1987
    Member

    Doesnt that mean you are running one softer now or have you lost weight.

    In general downhillers need stiffer springs but I would never run the same weight spring on my dh bike as I would my all day trail bike….its the same with mx vs enduro.

    Eg….comfort….. steepness of terrain (weight bias etc)

    Lawmanmx
    Member

    All good info, saving this for future reference ๐Ÿ˜‰

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    Tom_W1987 – Member

    Doesnt that mean you are running one softer now or have you lost weight.

    Nah, Rockshox say at my weight I need a soft, which by the normal internet advice means get a supersoft, but all mine need mediums (the air spring settings all feel like the result of dice rolls too tbh). Though, I daresay if I was a faster rider I might want something firmer in the dh bike, as it is I’m a knobber and not much faster than on the little bike, so medium works ๐Ÿ˜‰

    Tom_W1987
    Member

    What race sag do you run? And do you ride clipped in? Clipped riders need stiffer springs as they ride with more weight over the front.

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    Flats and, eh, sag not sure ๐Ÿ™‚ Set up by riding not measuring. Quarter-ish. Got one of those flat washer doobries in it too which makes ****-all difference as far as I can tell, but, cost me money so therefore must be good.

    Ewan
    Member

    Thanks everyone for the comments, sounds like removing the floodgate is worth a go

    I would – did mine and it improved. SRAM even (semi) publish advice on how to do it!

    http://www.pinkbike.com/news/technical-tuesday-lyric-mod-2010.html

    jk1980
    Member

    Sag if I remember correctly is at about 25%, as I understand it you can have it as high as 33% for DH, but hopefully I’m right in saying that 25-30% is ok.

    Bigdan6 – rebound is at about half, so will definitely also have a play with that. High speed and low speed are both fully off, but I think it’s only bottomed out once on a particularly tough landing. I do drops etc each time I use them and am using about 125mm – presumably this is because they’re ultra progressive.

    Tom_W1987
    Member

    Flats and, eh, sag not sure Set up by riding not measuring. Quarter-ish. Got one of those flat washer doobries in it too which makes ****-all difference as far as I can tell, but, cost me money so therefore must be good.

    Ok are you using the fixed 170mm model then? I’m running the u-turns which I believe have a more progressive spring rate than the fixed model.

    Hence why a lot of people like to run one spring softer.

    Bigdan6 – rebound is at about half, so will definitely also have a play with that. High speed and low speed are both fully off, but I think it’s only bottomed out once on a particularly tough landing. I do drops etc each time I use them and am using about 125mm – presumably this is because they’re ultra progressive.

    Do what we told you to do. Replace the seals with tf tuned low friction models (imo these make more of a difference than the floodgate mod, they end up feeling almost as nice as bombers), remove the flood gate, replace the oil with tf tuned rsp oil/new oil and make sure you get the volume right (which may make them less progressive if they’ve been filled incorrectly)….then finally swap to the spring that is one lower if you still have issues.

    If you go down to the next spring, you’ll find that you only run a little bit more sag but that the fork blows through it’s travel a lot more easily. At least that’s my experience with u-turn springs.

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