Hi all
Brief update after I went away last week (28 Sep – 2 Oct) for those who were considering something similar.
– flew to Geneva, train from the airport via Geneva CFF & Chambery to St Jean de Maurienne. Very easy, pretty cheap.
– stayed in St Jean de Maurienne at Hotel de l’Europe. Very cheap, clean, basic, friendly staff, secure bike room. Simple breakfast with lots of coffee.
– rented bike from Solaro cycles – nice people but not as slick as rental operations I’ve used in Mallorca. Bike was perfectly functional (Tiagra, alu) but I’d expected more (at least 105, ability to swap stem, loan of a multi tool). Only bike shop I could find in StJdM but I’d probably seek another outfit next time.
– weather was sunny thoughout. On the valley floor, it was about 10deg first thing in the morning rising to 18-20deg. Lovely. On the summits though, it’s bitterly cold – air temp 5deg roughly, but with the windchill it feels well below zero. There was snow and ice atop the Galibier. If it had been raining, its would have been chilly much of the time and summits/descents would have been verging on dangerous without many many clothes.
– Clothing – wore shorts and a longsleeve windstopper with a superlight rain/wind jacket & a buff in pocket. I’d probably wear more next time – maybe a base layer, thicker gloves, 3/4 legs. Cannot overstate how cold I got descending for 30mins at a time, even though on the climbs what I had was perfect.
– Stuff being open beyond the season, as this was – many things weren’t. On the valley floor it was very quiet but most shops open. In the higher towns and on summit cafes, about 1 in 5 were open. I was often the only person in when I stopped for coffee/croque monsieur/gaufre/etc. Tasty.
– I rode the following cols, and it was all totally brilliant – Chaussy, Lacets de Montvernier, Glandon, Croix de Fer, Mollard, Telegraphe, Galibier, Madeleine, La Toussuire. And there are more/ride in reverse/etc.
Summary – had a brilliant time, great place to go, would probably go at least a few weeks earlier next time.
Hope that’s of use to someone!
B