GP5000 is marginally faster with a latex tube than tubeless:

My first choice now for nice riding. Latex tubes can be hard work, but the ride improvement is noticeable. Nothing has been faster than my Corsa Speeds on HED Jet 6/9 though. Circuit races only after a few failures. Expensive failures.

I saw 3 last year. 28c /25c tyres, cuts that wouldn’t seal with a plug (usually in the pissing rain)

Wet roads can be a problem with getting the sealant to hold as it gets older. I’m more careful about checking and replacing sealant to ensure that it will do its job in the wet. Also as the tyre wears out the thinner rubber causes the sealant to flex out more easily.

Mixed success on mine. 28c Schwalbe Pro One on Prime tubeless rims.
Not sure if its the tyres or bad luck or what but on both occasions I’ve put new tyres on, the rear has ended up with cuts in it very quickly and within a few hundred miles I’ve ended up having to put a tube in it. The front works with no problems at all.

I found Pro Ones to be way too fragile for the riding I do. I’ve been very happy with Hutchinson Fusion 5 Performance – I can fit them without tyre levers and they inflate with just a track pump. I get the odd puncture but they seems far more resistant to cuts than the Pro Ones, and they have far better wet grip.

I’ve got Pro Ones. Highly impressed with the ride but I’ve not got many other 28c tyres to compare with. However the rear is fairly flat now with a couple of thousand K on it.

I’ve just replaced my 32mm GP5000TL on my commuter. ~8500km and down to the canvas in a couple of places – still no punctures. 🙂

Definitely got my money out of that tyre.

I always puncture on Pro Ones…Conti 5000 TL have been great as were the IRC mentioned earlier.

Just put some 5000 TR on the summer bike, tight as

I found Pro Ones to be way too fragile for the riding I do

Original or updated versions?

I have the newer ones and they seem fine so far, I know the originals had a rep for being fragile.

Original or updated versions?

Original. Final straw was a large bulge appearing in the carcass. I binned them and fitted the Hutchinsons.

Both for me…gave them another go since everyone insisted the newer ones were much improved, but same old.

Similar to Haze. I’ve used both versions of the Pro Ones and wasn’t impressed. I also found the wet grip wasn’t ideal.
The newer version lasted about 2 months before I binned them off and went back to my Challenge tyres.
The GP5000s were always a worry that if I was to ever need to put an emergency tube in them, there was noway I could do that out on the road. Incredibly difficult to get seated on the rim.

I’ve been tubeless on my road bike for 2 years now ever since I got my new mavic carbons.
I think the way to look at it is…go for the best tyre with puncture proof propertys..im not fussed about weight ( I mean we ain’t pros once you add up your water and tool kit a few extra grams on tyres won’t make much difference)
Now since 2 years ago I must have had about 5 punctures 4 rear 1 front…did I notice? no…it was only the white squiggles on the frame that gave it away.
So yeah i think tubeless is great.

On the flipside my last tyres with a tube were veredistine xtreme senso 3 years without a single puncture
Why did I change…well the new wheel came with a tubless tyre and I couldn’t find a veredistine tyre 28mm, so I join the tubeless gang

A mate had to be rescued today on her road bike when she couldn’t repair a puncture. My LBS owner personally will not ride with them as he hates them. MTB and Gravel bikes all good, but not on road bikes. My new racer this year I put top end Roval’s on. Tube only.

Spot on – I inflate without sealant.

Then after the bead pops, let it down and inject sealant.

Never had a prob. Still use clinchers on another bike and had no problem with a tube.

Lots of mention of lower pressures. I have 28c GP5000’s tubeless on carbon Rovals on my Creo SL. I weigh about 78 kg. I ride them at about 65 front/70 rear, maybe too high ?

I had a puncture on my commuter at the office the other day. Running tubeless, wouldn’t seal.

I used superglue from the stationery cupboard. Sealed straight away, no messing around with anchovies.

I don’t know how long it will last.

I think it all come down to the sealant…I only use stan’s….with stan’s darts for larger ( hopefully never needed) holes

iainc
Full Member

Lots of mention of lower pressures. I have 28c GP5000’s tubeless on carbon Rovals on my Creo SL. I weigh about 78 kg. I ride them at about 65 front/70 rear, maybe too high ?

Posted 13 hours ago
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Thoughts ?

28c GP5000’s tubeless on carbon Rovals on my Creo SL. I weigh about 78 kg. I ride them at about 65 front/70 rear, maybe too high ?

Joking aside, how heavy is the Creo?

But yeah, I’m 88kg right now (😭😭) and run 80psi in 25mm (27 measured) cheapo winter tyres with latex tubes. So you should be able to get away with a good bit lower being lighter, wider tyres, tubeless.

Thanks, it’s quite light, considering….. about 23 pounds

Then after the bead pops, let it down and inject sealant.

Yup. I remove the valve core and pump like a teenager to pop the bead. Then deflate and inject Stans sealant with a syringe. Refit the valve core and inflate.

Lots of mention of lower pressures. I have 28c GP5000’s tubeless on carbon Rovals on my Creo SL. I weigh about 78 kg. I ride them at about 65 front/70 rear, maybe too high ?

I’d say a bit too much IMO. I’m about 90kg these days and I use 60f/65r on my 28mm tubeless rapidairs on Lightbicycle WR35’s, although they’re probably a touch wider than the Rovals.