- Road bike that climbs
Being 85kg/ 5’6″ and riding a 2008 Boardman comp I believe both could be improved upon.
My usual routes are Holmfirth/ Holme Moss/ Snakes Pass/ Strines.
The other Holmfirth/ Greenfield/ Standege/ Huddersfield.
I’m only really interested in climbing- the flat runs bore me.
The boardman is awful, anything over 30mph downhill and I get a wobble of doom on.Posted 4 years agoKitz_ChrisMember
The boardman is awful, anything over 30mph downhill and I get a wobble of doom on.
So you want a bike that climbs well or descends well? They’re often mutually exclusive.
You’re going to have to spend crazy money to notice a significant difference from you Boardman going uphill, and if you’re spending that money there isn’t much between the top frames anyway.
Can I give you the standard STW response of “Try upgrading the wheels first?”Posted 4 years agoswiss01Member
I have a couple of mates with this very bike and they don’t have a wobble problem whatsoever whether they’re sprinting on the flat or coasting on the way down. obviously you’ll have consulted the googlemachine but if not this is as good a starter as anyPosted 4 years agobeejSubscriber
Yeah, the Canyon is maybe 2kg lighter than your current one, saving you about 2% in overall bike+bottles+rider+clothing weight.
Some mountain bikes are better climbers due to geometry, suspension tech etc. With road bikes it doesn’t really come into it, unless the geometry is really odd.Posted 4 years ago
Thanks for the good advice. I’m just wanting something fresh, not looking at spending heaps of money, the boardman didn’t cope very weel with the snow and is going to get restridted to winter/ commute useage. I was just wondering what too look out for in a climber, I guess as I won’t be shedding out loads of money its irrevelant.Posted 4 years agotinribzMember
Would have thought longer chain stays would be top of the list, longer wheelbase so the front wheel stays on the ground. Most climbers tend to have longer stems. Not sure about seat tube, would imagine further forward would be better, head tubes tend to be slacker on MTBs.
So logically >42cm chainstays, 74deg seat tube, 72deg head tube, shortish top tube?
Sounds a bit like a cyclocross frame only they have higher bottom brackets that muck things up. Perhaps an audax frame or Genesis Eq?Posted 4 years agocrikeyMember
As noted above, there are no ‘climbing’ bikes other than the stripped down things that get used for hillclimb events.
The only thing that might make a difference is having low handlebars, so when you stand up and climb you can straighten your arms to reduce the strain on your triceps.Posted 4 years agoroverpigSubscriber
Personally I’d say that stiffness, particularly around the BB and chainstays, is the key to a good climbing road bike. Weight obviously matters as you are fighting gravity, but it’s overall weight that matters (including you, kit etc) and I wouldn’t sacrifice stiffness just to save a pound or two.Posted 4 years agoaracerSubscriber
Something cheap, stiff and aluminium or expensive and plastic
Or cheap and plastic. Which (relatively speaking) is what my road bike frame is, on a bike which is probably lighter than most of yours. Though it’s really all just about power to weight, provided you’ve got your position on the bike sorted to enable you to put maximum power down. How would any other factor come into it?
Would have thought longer chain stays would be top of the list, longer wheelbase so the front wheel stays on the ground.
Do you often have problems with keeping the front wheel on the ground on road climbs?Posted 4 years agoDales_riderMember
My bike climbs well, heres part of the reveiw:-
“This all adds up to a remarkably light package; at 7.17kg for the complete bike it’s within a couple of hundred grams of the UCI limit. That’s impressive for a bike with this level of kit, but not unexpected when paired to the ****** frame, which shaves plenty of weight through some clever touches like the use of carbon dropouts and even a carbon fibre front mech mount.
The ****** wears its racing heart on its sleeve, with a shallow head-tube and long top-tube combined with a slacker than standard seat-tube leading to a shorter wheelbase. Out on the road the ******’s racing prowess is very evident. That long top-tube and the layback seatpost put you over the rear and in the prime position to really get on top of the standard 53/39 gearing. The low overall weight makes climbing almost fun and despite the standard double we never felt the need for lower gearing, even on the hills on our test route where we’re normally reaching for them.
You’d expect a frame with such little weight to be found wanting when it comes to sprints, but it’s worth remembering that a certain **** ********* made his name winning aboard an ******. The Manx Missile didn’t have any issues with it on his way to his multiple stage wins, and neither do we, especially with the way it responds under power. In fact we absolutely love the way it reacts. The shorter wheelbase and sharp steering makes it easy to throw around, yet the long reach and over-the-rear weight make descending a joy too.
So there you see what makes a climbing bike, trouble is it doesnt appear to work for me when climbing 🙁Posted 4 years ago
However the descents thats a different story 🙂igmSubscriber
Getting the seat height right makes a huge difference to seated climbing – an inch too low can rob you of 20% forward motion for the same effort in my own unscientific experience. Less so if you generally climb out of the saddle of course.
Obvious perhaps but try edging the saddle up and down to maximise the transfer of your effort to the road (it’s free).Posted 4 years ago
also try shifting the saddle forward a little (just 10mm or so at a time) to put your weight back over the crank when climbing seated. may have adverse effect when not climbing.
I don’t get how low handlebars could possibly help when climbing on the road, seated or standing. and I like to be able to breathe freely when standing on the pedals.Posted 4 years ago
“Because on a steep climb high bars will be up by your chest so your upper body will be forced back. Low bars mean you can get over the front when standing.“
But on the other hand, highish bars may mean a more comfortable reach, a less stressed lower back, and less rocking when standing. Different things may work for different people. I’m 11″ taller than the OP (though only a couple of kilos heavier 😉 ) so what applies to one may not apply to the other.Posted 4 years ago
so low bars are useful in as much as they allow one to get over the front when climbing? so would it be fair to say that this is only an issue if you have problems with the front end popping up on steep climbs? (not a prob I have but the roads on my commute only go up to 1:8.) perhaps longer chainstays would allow a taller front end then?Posted 4 years ago
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